Hello all ,

New to the forums and I have a few questions. I recently came into a 400 ac 2001 from my dad. It was at my uncles house and the did not take as good care of it as my dad did so I am tryng to get it up to par now ..

1st - I did a complete tune up on it oil, filters , and plug but is still seems to idle a bit rough and does not stay on in ldel for to long. Can I run some carb cleaner and see if that helps or shold I be looking for something else?

2nd - I ordered new tie rods as the ones it has are a little bit bent. How do I alien the steering once I replace them ?

3rd - changed the fluid for the diff.'s as they were bot milky. I used a turkey baster to add the new fluid and but in about 2oz of new oil. Is that enough or should I have more in there?

4th - The front wheels seem to have some play in them and I was wondering how much is to much and should I change the bearings if I have any play at all?

5th and last - When I turn it seems to really lean into the turn both way. Should it do that ?

 

My buddies 2001 250 A/C 2x4 is in my garage now and he is doing the front bearings on it!!! they have some play when jacked up and he said the seal around them is a poor design do to the fact they are tapered a bit and hold and direct water into the bearing. By the way I would take the carb off and clean it fully, main jet piolet jet,bowl..etc....Caper....

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Here is a start for the answers you are looking for:

1) I would reccomend (as would others here) to always run some type of fuel additive with each tank of fuel. The current (expensive) fuel they make seems to always have some gunk and water in it ans does not store well. Seafoam is what I use and it is a cleaner/dryer/stabilizer for fuel. You may also want to add a cheap inline fuel filter from the autop parts store between the tank and carb.

2) Replace old tie-rods with new. You need to mark the center of each tire tread onthe front and back of each front tire. Then withthe tires pointing straight, measure with a tape measure between them. The measurement between the front marks should be 1/8inch less than the rear measurements. That would be 1/8 inch Toe in. (I think that's what it is anyway). THis procedure is in the service manual which I would reccomend getting a copy of.

3) I think the diff should hold a little more than 2 oz? Not sure of the exact amount or the fill level. Sometimes its to the bottom of the threads, others it is 1 inch down from the threads onthe fill nut. Not sure which it is for your model. Again, this is in the service manual for your machine.

4) Wheel play? I think if you have a 1/4 inch wobble I would worry about it. Other wise ride-on.

5) The shocks on the front should be adjustable type. If they are on the lightest setting. Jack the bike but to take the weight off the tire, remove the tire, and adjust the spring tension up to the desired level. I tow a trailer a bunch so mine are all the way up. If they are not adjustable your springs may be weak. There is also a problem with the older stock (dunlop) tires having weak sidewalls and rolling on the rim causing hard steering.

Welcome to the forum and I would reccomend getting a service manual. You should be able to find one on ebay for your machine. Or from a dealer.

Hope this helps

SJ

 

i would have to strongly disagree with you on the toe in. on a car or truck yes you have toe in. but on these little atvs if you toe in the front that would make it a very light and road happy atv. almost impossable to ride at any speed. with it toed OUT the 1/8-5/16 it make stearing a little stiffer and stableizes it in ruts, go to any new atv shop and look.
All of the ones i have ever seen toe out. the front mesurment is LONGER then the rear one.

BUT as we all know every atv is differant. but i know of the 5 atvs have owned they all toed out except my badshee.
all of the ute atvs toe out.

more thoughts on this later. maybe BEAR4570 will now more....

HR..

 

Thank you all for the replies ... I will look in to all ur suggestions and see how I come out. I will keep you all posted ...

 

Well, all I know is that AC says there should be 1/4" to 1/8" toe-IN. I run 1/16" to 1/8" toe in and usually shoot for 1/16". Toe out on any vehicle cause major bump steer and oversteer and hard or stiff steering and any of these things is never a good idea. A steering system on a car, truck or ATV needs toe in to make the front wheel run close to straight ahead when going down the road or trail and toe out will never do that.

 

not wanting to argue, Why would the dealers set them up this way? please enlighten me.

HR

 

 

Man I hate it when I post and haven't written anything. I have worked in Auto and ATV shops and the alignment for ATV's and rear wheel drive autos are set for toe in, front wheel drive autos are set for toe out because the tires are pulling instead of being pushed. On full time four wheel drive ATV I set the front as close to 0 toe as I can or 1/16 toe out. Other units should be set as Bear stated because of the steering issuse.