Boy did I ever screw this up! Had a dead battery on my 2003 500cc Cat from setting over the winter. So I promtly whipped out my battery charger and proceeded to hook the negative to the positive lead and when I touched the positive to the negative I got a spark! Surprise!!! After I got done ranting at myself I took the battery out and charged it up. So now I put it back in and nothing happens. Checked the fuses and even the main fuse down by the rear wheel and they're are all good. Hooked my continuity checker onto the battery cables and turned on the ignition switch figuring that it should show continuity but got nothing. Can somebody help me please? Tks frogmun

 

Here's a link to manuals if you don't have one.

http://www.snowbuzzard.com/acmanuals/


Clean your battery cables and posts along with the place where the neg cable bolts to the frame. You might have just broke ground. Does the pod come on?. The headlights burn?. Is both the key and kill switch on?. If no lights and no pod, check key switch too.

With key and switch ON, take some jumper cables and jump from the positive post on the battery to the starter. Does the bike turn over?. Does it start and run?.

If yes to both, check starter solenoid, if no, check wiring path from battery to starter.

My best guesses.

 

Hefty, Tks I'll do that in the morning. Lights don't work, pod doesn't work, nada. Will let you know. tks

 

In the right rear wheelwell there is a fuse....

 

Hello,
I have a 2002 AC 375 Automatic 4x4 and I think I zapped it with my battery charger... trying to charge the weak battery and I THINK I hit the battery with the charger in the jumpstart mode. Since then, I have no spark.

Did I blow up the CDI?
Fry the COIL?
Fry the Stator?
Blow a fuse I can't find?

Thanks. I have in a shop and the guys telling me I have to change the Stator and the CDI each of which is ~$450 :-( \

Any help will be much appreciated.

 

When you reverse the leads on a battery it can damage any of the electrical components. That is why it says to remove the battery fro the machine (or at least disconnect it) and tonot charge with more than .2 amps. Prefereably less if your charger can.

You could have melted plates together inside the battery as well.

I would try pull starting it. If it tuns then it can be narrowed down to an elcectrical issue between the battery and the starter. OR check for a spark.

Runamuc, I think your mechanics are replacing ALL the parts they think it is without trying to test them. It is easier ontheir end but not yours.

 

If you could find a schematic that would be helpful, actually it is pretty much impossible to trace wires with out one. if you have one let me know and i can help you go through all your wiring.

 

I have no spark. I didn't reverse the leads to the batery but I may have hit it with the charger in the jump start mode (I'm not sure if I did or did not).

The mechanic tell me there's no way to test the CDI, just change it and see if the problem goes away. But, that's a $450 guess and there's no returning the new CDI.

I gave up on the mech. and pulled the wheeler back home. Now, I'd like to get my hands on a trouble shooting guide for a no spark condition. Of specific interest would be how to test the Coil, Voltage Regulator, and the Stator. I've looked around and can't locate any specifications for resistance values withing the various coil and stator windings.
Also haven't found any information oh how to check the CDI.
Thanks in advance for any info.

 

Section 5 of the service manual has tests for Ignition coil, Magneto coils, CDI Unit, and Regulator/Rectifier.

So there are tests, some need the engine to be running and if you do not use the exact AC voltage meter you may not get exact numbers but they should be close.

Such as I think you should be getting 14-15.5volts at the battery with the engine running at 5000rpm and the head lights on. last time I tested mine I got 12.9-15.7 but I was not looking at the rpm's I just gave it some gas and read the meter.

Get a Service manual for your machine and try the test for your components.

SJ

 

Well, you can make a test set cdi
http://rthompson.us/2007/02/14...atv-to-ford-ignition/


look, you can test continuity to the cdi .. but basically you should be able to check right at the ignition to battery... neg to bat, pos to bat... change key position and try again...

at each check, also test, and record, resistence... fried wires, MUCH more likely than fried cdi, will have much much higher resistence.

I have to tell you that "swapping out the cdi" is one of the most ANNOYING answers from the shops ... if they are honest with people, they would probably say that something from the cdi to the battery is ruined...

I have smoked two wiring harnesses.. one on a kz440 and one on my old suburban .. in both cases, i fired the main fuse AND "crystalized" aka SMOKED wiring ...

you can also sometimes see where the wiring is blistered if it overheated...
verify 5 ways from sunday that you have proper continuity to the cdi, and then from CDI to plug...

But, the STARTER and lights not working make me assume it's in the harness or a fuse, not the CDI,,,

No, REALLY i hate it when they want to replace the most expensive part first