Multiple 2000 AC 300 4x4 issues
#1
Right to the point:
No local AC dealers within 60 miles of me anymore...all went out of business last year. I'm cash strapped and don't have time to search out best online parts prices, nor do I have the money to swap out parts troubleshooting a multitude of issues.
1. Clicking noise coming from right front wheel when turning left...please help me understand what might cause this noise.
2. Can pull start and it fires up after maybe 5 hard pulls...use to start with ignition button but now all I get is rapid chattering like noise under the seat. Please help me narrow this down. I can jump the relay terminals and it arcs and the the starter turns fine. Is this the regulator? Also battery drains fast and takes forever to recharge.
3. Cannot locate a reasonably priced (or free) online service/repair manual...please help me source one of these (prefer free if someone is willing to donate an electronic copy I'd be forever grateful).
4. Good source for salvage parts in northern new england? I need to find headlights and their respective housings, plastics, wheel rims, winch switch, carb, intake filter parts, electrical wire harness and the list goes on...(this is starting to look like a project bike).
5. Brake lever control leaks after a large item fell onto the handlebars...cannot find anything online for a rebuild kit...only thing close is the actual part item #9 (master cylinder) which doesn't appear to have the capability to be rebuilt like most master cylinders on cycles do. I think the O-ring (part item #8) is only half the leak...I'm also believing the master cylinder leaks from a hairline crack in the casting since the shed caved in on it. Any help figuring out if this master cylinder can be rebuilt would be great info.
6. Left foot shift lever assembly was rammed real hard by previous owner's kids when they rode the snot outta the thing. So bad that the footrest sheared off a mounting bolt that attaches it to the frame and the area where the sawtooth like ridges that you place your foot on, well that has a snakelike bend in the middle from the impact. I had mentioned in one of my 1st posts that I also hit a rock on an initial trail run after we got the thing running and the shift lever (was not moving fast at all and did no damage), didn't realize the lever have moved the cable out of position enough to not allow it into gear and we got it outta the woods and back home in reverse, where I took the shift lever apart and had to re-align it so the shifter cable assembly worked again. I'm trying to figure out how to get the sheared bolt out of the frame mount so it can be replaced. If anyone can help me understand how to post photos here so you can see what I'm referring to that would be awesome help.
Any help would be appreciated.
No local AC dealers within 60 miles of me anymore...all went out of business last year. I'm cash strapped and don't have time to search out best online parts prices, nor do I have the money to swap out parts troubleshooting a multitude of issues.
1. Clicking noise coming from right front wheel when turning left...please help me understand what might cause this noise.
2. Can pull start and it fires up after maybe 5 hard pulls...use to start with ignition button but now all I get is rapid chattering like noise under the seat. Please help me narrow this down. I can jump the relay terminals and it arcs and the the starter turns fine. Is this the regulator? Also battery drains fast and takes forever to recharge.
3. Cannot locate a reasonably priced (or free) online service/repair manual...please help me source one of these (prefer free if someone is willing to donate an electronic copy I'd be forever grateful).
4. Good source for salvage parts in northern new england? I need to find headlights and their respective housings, plastics, wheel rims, winch switch, carb, intake filter parts, electrical wire harness and the list goes on...(this is starting to look like a project bike).
5. Brake lever control leaks after a large item fell onto the handlebars...cannot find anything online for a rebuild kit...only thing close is the actual part item #9 (master cylinder) which doesn't appear to have the capability to be rebuilt like most master cylinders on cycles do. I think the O-ring (part item #8) is only half the leak...I'm also believing the master cylinder leaks from a hairline crack in the casting since the shed caved in on it. Any help figuring out if this master cylinder can be rebuilt would be great info.
6. Left foot shift lever assembly was rammed real hard by previous owner's kids when they rode the snot outta the thing. So bad that the footrest sheared off a mounting bolt that attaches it to the frame and the area where the sawtooth like ridges that you place your foot on, well that has a snakelike bend in the middle from the impact. I had mentioned in one of my 1st posts that I also hit a rock on an initial trail run after we got the thing running and the shift lever (was not moving fast at all and did no damage), didn't realize the lever have moved the cable out of position enough to not allow it into gear and we got it outta the woods and back home in reverse, where I took the shift lever apart and had to re-align it so the shifter cable assembly worked again. I'm trying to figure out how to get the sheared bolt out of the frame mount so it can be replaced. If anyone can help me understand how to post photos here so you can see what I'm referring to that would be awesome help.
Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by vt cat atc newbie; Dec 7, 2010 at 09:18 PM. Reason: additional info
#2
Here goes.....
1) Bad wheel bearing or CV joint. Put ATV up on blocks and placing one had at 12 and the other at 6 o'clcock wiggle the tire. If you have too much play (more than 1/8 inch) you can usually repack the bearing OR replace it. Cheapest bearings I have found is from Bossbearing.com. Could also be the CV joint but that usually happens if you have a torn CV boot and get dirt/gunk in the CV. Also, remove your tire and check your brake pads. They have a pin holding them in place that can pop out and the pads will rattle and click against the disk.
2) Sounds like a bad battery, electrical short, or bad starter relay. Check the battery by removing from ATV, trickle charge over night, and voltage test with voltmeter. Should be between 12-13volts. Let it sit not connected to anything for 24hrs and voltage test again. If it has dropped (usually I have seen them drop to around 10-11volts) you need to replace it. You could also replace the relay but it is like $45 bucks and is probably not needed as I am fairly sure its your battery. If you need a battery take the measurements of length,width, height and note (+ and -) terminal orientation and check walmart or your local auto parts store for a generic brand as they are cheaper.
3) Try this place for a service manual not much difference between 2000 and 2003. Check for a 250 or a 300 atv manual though.
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
4) Nothing on parts on the New England area, I'm in Alaska so not much of a help on that one.
5)No master brake cylinder rebuild available that I am aware of just new ones and they are spendy! I do not see why you could not swap it out for one that is rebuidable like from a motor cycle but could be as spendy as a new one.
6) If the sheared bolt you are talking about is on the foot rest then it is inside a small rectangular box welded to the frame? you will need to drill out the old dolt and re-tap the threads.
As far as posting pictures I believe if when you are making a post if you scroll down the page you will see a place titled "manage attachments" where you can attach images to your post. You can also upload them to your garage here.
Sorry for the long post and I hope it helps.
Swampy
1) Bad wheel bearing or CV joint. Put ATV up on blocks and placing one had at 12 and the other at 6 o'clcock wiggle the tire. If you have too much play (more than 1/8 inch) you can usually repack the bearing OR replace it. Cheapest bearings I have found is from Bossbearing.com. Could also be the CV joint but that usually happens if you have a torn CV boot and get dirt/gunk in the CV. Also, remove your tire and check your brake pads. They have a pin holding them in place that can pop out and the pads will rattle and click against the disk.
2) Sounds like a bad battery, electrical short, or bad starter relay. Check the battery by removing from ATV, trickle charge over night, and voltage test with voltmeter. Should be between 12-13volts. Let it sit not connected to anything for 24hrs and voltage test again. If it has dropped (usually I have seen them drop to around 10-11volts) you need to replace it. You could also replace the relay but it is like $45 bucks and is probably not needed as I am fairly sure its your battery. If you need a battery take the measurements of length,width, height and note (+ and -) terminal orientation and check walmart or your local auto parts store for a generic brand as they are cheaper.
3) Try this place for a service manual not much difference between 2000 and 2003. Check for a 250 or a 300 atv manual though.
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
4) Nothing on parts on the New England area, I'm in Alaska so not much of a help on that one.
5)No master brake cylinder rebuild available that I am aware of just new ones and they are spendy! I do not see why you could not swap it out for one that is rebuidable like from a motor cycle but could be as spendy as a new one.
6) If the sheared bolt you are talking about is on the foot rest then it is inside a small rectangular box welded to the frame? you will need to drill out the old dolt and re-tap the threads.
As far as posting pictures I believe if when you are making a post if you scroll down the page you will see a place titled "manage attachments" where you can attach images to your post. You can also upload them to your garage here.
Sorry for the long post and I hope it helps.
Swampy
#3
I have seen a lot of 300s with a bad regulator. mine was shot also. battery would drain overnight. My neighbor had the same problem as well as others on this site. id also look into a new type of air filter. In the manual it states and quotes" Do NOT oil the air filter". Find one that you can oil and buy it other wise you will be putting new piston rings in it. My 1999 300 only had 1,500 miles on before i needed rings but i rode alot of dusty trails.
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