2008 700EFI Front Drive Shaft
#1
Issue is:
Front drive shaft wears at input of front diff and output of engine. Rattles so bad I can feel it in floor boards. If you put bike in 4wd it stops the noise. However I do 99% of riding in 2wd. Have had it back to dealer, they have kept fixing it and it lasts about 3000kms or 1900 miles and is so bad again it all needs to be replaced yet again. This is I think fourth time for the same repair. Bike has now 13,500kms/8400 miles and it is about a $1500 repair each time. That translates into 50 cents per kilometer to repair that shaft alone, not including any other normal repairs such as bearings and seals.
Anyone out the have similiar issues. Seems I am always told I am alone with this issue and would be surprised if I am.
Front drive shaft wears at input of front diff and output of engine. Rattles so bad I can feel it in floor boards. If you put bike in 4wd it stops the noise. However I do 99% of riding in 2wd. Have had it back to dealer, they have kept fixing it and it lasts about 3000kms or 1900 miles and is so bad again it all needs to be replaced yet again. This is I think fourth time for the same repair. Bike has now 13,500kms/8400 miles and it is about a $1500 repair each time. That translates into 50 cents per kilometer to repair that shaft alone, not including any other normal repairs such as bearings and seals.
Anyone out the have similiar issues. Seems I am always told I am alone with this issue and would be surprised if I am.
#2
Im not sure if we have the same issue,as yours costs A lot more than mine but,The only thing I had issues with were the front drive shaft U joints. Mine is also a 2008 700 and I got a vibration as well while hunting. Once I put it in 4wd it went away like you said b/c it puts torque on the shaft. It had 500 miles on it. I seen on mine,a U joint had alot of play so i took it in. The dealer found that both on the front were worn out. Replaced under warranty. Then 500 miles later(1000 miles now),they went out again. This time I went to the auto parts store and for $40 each(u.s) I bought new ones with grease zerks and the seal is 3 times better than OEM u joints. since then I havent had a problem but I only have 1300 miles,so we ill see. I did the second repair my self and it was pretty easy. An air hammer is recommended though. Ask for details if you decide to do it yourself. Ill try to find the part number for the u joints.
#3
This is a post from another guy that had the same thing as mine. The ujoint part is from oreileys autoparts store and is #392. These fit OEM u joints,and they were $32 (u.s.)
Vibration 06 cat 700 efi
Hi people ... I have a vibration coming from what seems to be the front of my 06 Arctic cat 700 fis... It has 3000 kms on the bike and the u-joints were done around 2450 kms .... the bearings are tight and all the bushing are good the only thing i can see is where the front of the drive shaft (the spline part) goes into the housing seems to be sloppy .... it is spring loaded to be pushed back towards the motor , and when it is is thats where i notice the play .. if you load it (push it in the diff direction) it seems to be fine and tight ...Are these splined pieces know to wear out ??? ...
#2 (permalink)
07-19-2010, 04:25 PM
mudslinginfool
Pro Rider
Does it in the Mud!
Its your u-joint(s) again. I just replaced my u-joints on my 08 last weekend. I also had them replaced at 500 miles. My bike is still under warranty but since they went out AGAIN with only 1,000 miles on it, i decided to use another brand u-joint. I went to O'riellys auto parts and used part #392. $32.00 u.s. The brand name is precision. This particular one comes with a grease zerk and has way better seals. It also said limited lifetime warranty on the receipt. So far so good,but i only put 30 miles on it. If you do it yourself,i recommend an air chisel. Remove the "c" clips on the u joint then hit the caps of the u-joint from the inside with the chisel and they will literally pop right out. In fact, they flew across the room. Id spray them with lube first though. let us know if you need anything else. Oh just so you know, i tried car quest and they have the part but it does not come with the grease zerk.
Vibration 06 cat 700 efi
Hi people ... I have a vibration coming from what seems to be the front of my 06 Arctic cat 700 fis... It has 3000 kms on the bike and the u-joints were done around 2450 kms .... the bearings are tight and all the bushing are good the only thing i can see is where the front of the drive shaft (the spline part) goes into the housing seems to be sloppy .... it is spring loaded to be pushed back towards the motor , and when it is is thats where i notice the play .. if you load it (push it in the diff direction) it seems to be fine and tight ...Are these splined pieces know to wear out ??? ...
#2 (permalink)
07-19-2010, 04:25 PM
mudslinginfool
Pro Rider
Does it in the Mud!
Its your u-joint(s) again. I just replaced my u-joints on my 08 last weekend. I also had them replaced at 500 miles. My bike is still under warranty but since they went out AGAIN with only 1,000 miles on it, i decided to use another brand u-joint. I went to O'riellys auto parts and used part #392. $32.00 u.s. The brand name is precision. This particular one comes with a grease zerk and has way better seals. It also said limited lifetime warranty on the receipt. So far so good,but i only put 30 miles on it. If you do it yourself,i recommend an air chisel. Remove the "c" clips on the u joint then hit the caps of the u-joint from the inside with the chisel and they will literally pop right out. In fact, they flew across the room. Id spray them with lube first though. let us know if you need anything else. Oh just so you know, i tried car quest and they have the part but it does not come with the grease zerk.
#4
Just replaced my front u-joint on my '08 TRV 650H1 with the NAPA #392. It as a PAIN...but "back-yard" mechanic fixable. Mine was squeeking....no vibration.
Remember to remove ALL your diff bolts to slide the entire differential as far forward as you can. I then removed the u-joint snap rings and pulled it apart. The whole shaft was then able to slide back towards the engine and out.
Took about an 1hr 1/2.
Remember to remove ALL your diff bolts to slide the entire differential as far forward as you can. I then removed the u-joint snap rings and pulled it apart. The whole shaft was then able to slide back towards the engine and out.
Took about an 1hr 1/2.
#5
Just replaced my front u-joint on my '08 TRV 650H1 with the NAPA #392. It as a PAIN...but "back-yard" mechanic fixable. Mine was squeeking....no vibration.
Remember to remove ALL your diff bolts to slide the entire differential as far forward as you can. I then removed the u-joint snap rings and pulled it apart. The whole shaft was then able to slide back towards the engine and out.
Took about an 1hr 1/2.
Remember to remove ALL your diff bolts to slide the entire differential as far forward as you can. I then removed the u-joint snap rings and pulled it apart. The whole shaft was then able to slide back towards the engine and out.
Took about an 1hr 1/2.
However perhaps it needs a better spring to hold in position as well.??????
Mike
#6
when i did mine i dont remember having to touch the differential. Im pretty sure I was able to leave it where it was. i could be wrong. You will need an air chisel/hammer to knock the caps off the old ujoints. Be careful though, when you hit them with the air hammer,they may go flying across the room!!
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