2010 Artic Cat ATV about 500 miles. Bot 1 year ago used mostly for snow removal (plow). I was hoping someone could offer opinions on how to resolve this problem.

The local shop has given up.

This fall, while using the ATV for hunting, the ATV would barely run (runs a second then starts again over and over) in the forward direction but would run fine in reverse. I took it to the shop. The machine also runs fine when lifted off the floor. They spent about a month and a half tearing the ATV apart trying to figure out the reason. My former trusted mechanic (who now works at a car dealership) told me the problem was likely that the mounts were loose. He stated that it is likely cutting off the air supply. I relayed that infor to the local shop. They asked Artic Cat tech support who stated "no way". They attempted replacing multiple parts to no avail. After a month and a half of effort with no results they stated they were giving up and returning the ATV. While backing the unit out of the shop they had their 300# employee step on the right side transmission. Sure enough runs fine. So I authorized them to replace the mounts which they charged me over $500. When I picked the unit up (after replaceing the motor mounts) I noticed that it still was a little-bit lurchy in forward but worked fine in reverse. Now, after using for minor plowing this weekend it barely runs in forward but again fine in reverse. It seems obvious to me that the new mounts aren't properly positioning the motor. I bought the unit primarily to push snow.

Assuming that the mounts are not working for some reason, what is causing the motor to lurch? I looked at the air-box - it doesn't seem logical that it cutting off the air supply.

I am going to contact them and have them re-torque the bolts. Is it possible that the frame is bent.

I would be apprecitive for any thoughts or suggestions.

Mark

 

What exact make & model?

Symptoms:
- Step on the right side of the transmission (to twist its motor and attached transmission) and it works perfect in forward gear.
- Remove downward pressure on right side of engine and it stops working properly in forward gear.
- In Reverse Gear (with engine being twisted in opposite direction), engine seems to work great.

Yes. It does sound like twisting engine (being supported by rubber motor mounts) could be the problem. But, is it the root cause?

Please details explain your "barely runs in forward" state. Does it sound like running out of fuel, perhaps a bad electrical or perhaps the gear shift isn't lining up properly?

Could also be loose electrical wire / loose wire connection as well. re: When motor twists one direction, the wire connection tightens up. And when motor twists the other way (like when NOT pressurized by weight on the right side), the wire connection becomes loose. If EFI system, recommend looking at all the wires going into the Throttle Body and add some dielectric grease (to make better wire connections). Also look at the under air box spark plug / coil wires - to ensure if good and coated with dielectric grease as well.

Note: AC company did have a bad batch of connectors going into the Throttle Body. They tested clean but made bad contacts. They sell a connector to replace the factory electrical plug. Perhaps this is the true root cause? re: https://www.countrycat.com/textron-o...18-atv-prowler

Hope these ideas help....

 

Also.... "what is causing the motor to lurch and cut out". Man.... That sounds like my 2011 AC 550s previous engine behavior. Especially when in cold state - like after sitting outside all night long or after being trailered to ATV trail opening.

Recommend removing all its GAS and replacing with Esso Octane 91 (which is Ethanol Free diluted mixture). Gas goes bad after 30+ days out of the pump and also add double recommended amount of "Lucas Fuel Treatment with Upper Cylinder Lubricant & Injector Cleaner" product. My 2011 AC 550 engine was acting weird when cold (which I thought its root cause was electrical or moisture in wiring problem). I added this stuff in 2 x full tanks of fresh Octane 91 gas and my engine problem magically went away. Don't know if this is magic solution for your 2010 AC but it might help. Especially if you have old gas in its system. Or, use too much SeaFoam product and its possibly "gummed up" its Fuel Injector.

Hope this helps as well....

 

If it were me i would remove all plastics so you can see everything.. Loosen motor mounts and use something to twist motor until it stalls and leave that jammed in their.. Then grab your flashlight and start going over every electrical and fuel connection and line until you find the pinched/rubbed line or the issue.. The engine would have to move a long way to block air flow so i think it would comedown to a wire or a line... make sure to wiggle wires as it could also be a broken wire from engine movement

 

The Model , according to the Title, is a 700 H1 FIS EFI.

To me It feels like it is running out of air (or fuel) when it lurches in forward. It will run just fine in idle. For example, after idling just fine, when I tried to load it onto the trailer in forward, I could not make it up the ramp - it lurches and quits.

The shop tore the transmission apart and replaced shift sensors - no help.

I beleive you are right that the problem is some type of electrical connector issue effecting the EFI.

I realy appreciate your help; I will try what you said. Thanks.

 

When I researched my 2011 AC engine `weird behavior` problem last spring, I came across a Google post of a similar weird engine behavior problems. The guy had extreme low miles AC and it ran like crap. Idled great but it didn't work properly above idle. And, his AC shop couldn't find the root cause either - and returned the AC unit to him. Ouch! The owner then tore its Throttle Body apart and found sand in its injector tip. Thus, it idled great but spitted and sputtered when he pressed the throttle. He manually cleaned the injector with Injector cleaner - which doesn't leave behind a residue (like many carb cleaner sprays). His solution lead me to the idea of "new gas and injector cleaner" for my 2011 EFI AC ride. And, it worked like magic. Don't know if this will help your AC but remember to try "Lucas Fuel Treatment with Upper Cylinder Lubricant & Injector Cleaner" product as well. If wondering, I thought my AC's wired engine behavior "root cause" was originally wiring problem as well...

 

Hi M20,

Were you able to resolve your engine's weird running problem? Just wondering...

 

No it still does it. I coated every electrical connection with dielectric grease as suggested by someone else - didn't help. It does run better when warm vs cold. Also of note that when I tried to unload off a tilted trailer it would not start at all ( EFI warning). I had to physically push it off the trailer unto flatter ground. Possibly the issue is related to the tilt sensor.

The unit has been out of commission for a while since I ran over a rebar which did major damage to the right rear rim, brake etc. At least that can be fixed with money.

Initially I did not believe it was gas related; but I am ready to try any suggestion. I will try to the Lucas product and report back.

Thanks Sven

 

When my 2011 AC 550 TRV's engine was acting up, I surfed eBay and luckily, bought a used Throttle Body (with including all sensors & EFI Injector) for same cost as buying 1 x new Fuel Injector replacement. Replacing my AC's throttle body was my next step. Luckily, the Lucus treatment at double recommended ratio mix worked for my AC. If you still think its EFI related and Lucas Injector Cleaner treatment doesn't work, this might be your next step as well.

Note: Do investigate the "connector plug" on the throttle body's TPS sensor. Sometimes this electrical plug doesn't work properly (even with dielectric grease) and they do sell a low cost plug replacement. re: https://www.countrycat.com/textron-o...18-atv-prowler

Hope this helps...

 

Fine broken wire in the wiring harness was the problem - completely broken. Strange that it even ran at all. Apparently with someone sitting on the seat in the right circumsances it ran. When the weather turns cold the wire contracted just-enough that contact was intermittent.

Thanks to all.