Help! automatic or Manual
#1
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] Hi all I'm looking for some advise.And i'm sure you guys can help...I have a deposit on a 2002 500i manual my dealer also has a 500i auto in stock I've been going back and forth trying to decide if I should get the auto or manual.Can you guys tell me your experience and/or pros and cons of each. I currantly have a 2000 AC300 4x4 (manual)which i'm selling (Want More power and ground clearance)and I use it for trail riding and light farming. Thank-you in advance for your comments.
#2
I'm an ATV virgin as I have yet to pick up my 500i, manual. I heard various comments about belt slippage when wet from "puddle jumping", not AC specific, so decided to go with the manual. The last thing I would want is to be back in the swamp pulling out a 250+lb deer in late Nov-Dec and have a belt slip. A buddy had his 500 Sportsman leave him stranded recently. For trails and light farm use you should be fine.
#3
My biggest beef with the autos is how freaking wide the engine is! No one seems to care about this but me, however. I like the manuals because
1)it is fun to shift
2)they are less likely to fail on you
3)you don't have to worry about belts wearing or breaking or getting dirt in the belt housing
4)cheaper
5)all big bore 4x4s are going auto.. so I want a manual before all you can get are autos!
newf
1)it is fun to shift
2)they are less likely to fail on you
3)you don't have to worry about belts wearing or breaking or getting dirt in the belt housing
4)cheaper
5)all big bore 4x4s are going auto.. so I want a manual before all you can get are autos!
newf
#4
As far as the 2002 auto is concerned. I have a 375 auto, it's the exact same tranny that the 500i has. I have experienced slippage, once. It slipped because I got in water over the seat which caused water to flow into the tranny intake that is snuggled high up on the side of the gas tank. Tonight I was riding in water up over the floor boards for extened periods. No problem. The main difference between Polaris and AC trannys when concerned with water entry is this. Polaris' have a vent of some sort located around tranny cover (as I'm told). This has been known to allow water back into the tranny and cause belt slippage. AC has eliminated this and their only tranny air intake is about the same height as the air intake for the air box under the seat. Actually they raised the tranny intake for 2002 on the auto's.
It breaks down like this basically. If you're in water high enough to drown the tranny, you're in water high enough to get water in your air box. The manual and the Auto's are on about level playing field in this area now.
I hope this has eliminated some of the confusion.
EtherNut
It breaks down like this basically. If you're in water high enough to drown the tranny, you're in water high enough to get water in your air box. The manual and the Auto's are on about level playing field in this area now.
I hope this has eliminated some of the confusion.
EtherNut
#5
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]crazycat,
i've had both;first a 2000 belt drive and a 2001 manual.reasons,if you like to play in the water,the bearing on the belt drive will give you problems.i liked the bike but i use my machines pretty hard,put 1,200 miles on it and traded for the manual,i pull a 4x8 trailer with 2ft.sides full of wood 2 miles from the timber to home.most of the time as hard it will go.i have over 1,200 miles on the manual 500 no hint of problems yet,i change my oil every 100 miles when i work it hard.i love it!!!!! it's a work horse!
buzzsaw:2001 ac500
2000lb. warn winch
48"snowplow.
i've had both;first a 2000 belt drive and a 2001 manual.reasons,if you like to play in the water,the bearing on the belt drive will give you problems.i liked the bike but i use my machines pretty hard,put 1,200 miles on it and traded for the manual,i pull a 4x8 trailer with 2ft.sides full of wood 2 miles from the timber to home.most of the time as hard it will go.i have over 1,200 miles on the manual 500 no hint of problems yet,i change my oil every 100 miles when i work it hard.i love it!!!!! it's a work horse!
buzzsaw:2001 ac500
2000lb. warn winch
48"snowplow.
#6
That is a really tough decision. Both have advantages and choose the one that meets your riding style.
AUTO
Always in the powerband and never have to fool with shifting
Easy for anyone (my wife) to ride
Can put your feet on front rack when going through DEEP water/ mud (never have to shift or downshift)
Manual
Better for pulling heavy trailers / work
No belt slipage for deep water. (however I can go through @ 2 1/2 to 3 feet of water with out belt slipage)
Narrower than the AUTO
Basically it is all personal preference. Ride both then decide. Do not buy what someone else tells you to buy.
AUTO
Always in the powerband and never have to fool with shifting
Easy for anyone (my wife) to ride
Can put your feet on front rack when going through DEEP water/ mud (never have to shift or downshift)
Manual
Better for pulling heavy trailers / work
No belt slipage for deep water. (however I can go through @ 2 1/2 to 3 feet of water with out belt slipage)
Narrower than the AUTO
Basically it is all personal preference. Ride both then decide. Do not buy what someone else tells you to buy.
#7
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#8
I just bought a 2001 Arctic Cat 400 4x4 Manual, and I really wanted an automatic. But after riding if for a few days, I really am glad I got the manual. It's really fun, and let's you control the gear for the type of riding you're doing.
#9
In the past I wouldn't have recommended an Auto. But, most manufactures have resolved most problems on 2002 models. Arctic Cat specifically has an excellent auto. As ethernut said, with the 2002 AC's, the vent tube is almost as high as the intake snorkel, so if you are in water deep enough to slip the auto, you are probably going to stall the motor out. I personally like to shift, feel it adds to the excitement and skill of ATV riding. Here's my list for auto's versus manual's:
AUTO
Centrifugally keeps the engine in max torque.
When there is a failure, 30 minutes and a 10$ belt, you're back in business (man are $$ to fix)
EASY to ride, just push the throttle
Deep water/mud riding (not to deep) is easier, feet can always be away from floorboards
Don't have to get more expensive wet'clutch oil
Manual
Better mechanical transfer of energy (torque) to wheels
Narrower and lighter than an auto
Probably will never see the inside of a manual tranny as long as you own your ATV
Technically it should be better for towing (though, not sure that's the case anymore)
Manuals don't need to be vented, and are completely sealed, which is always a good thing
Can hold the engine in rpm's where you want them
Shifting is fun (I think)
Cheaper cost
But, both will work, and both have pos/neg, really comes down to preference. If you liked the manual you had on the 300, then I would probably stick with the manual and pocket the $200. However, if you think you would prefer the auto, then go for it. It's really personal preference now-adays. IMHO
AUTO
Centrifugally keeps the engine in max torque.
When there is a failure, 30 minutes and a 10$ belt, you're back in business (man are $$ to fix)
EASY to ride, just push the throttle
Deep water/mud riding (not to deep) is easier, feet can always be away from floorboards
Don't have to get more expensive wet'clutch oil
Manual
Better mechanical transfer of energy (torque) to wheels
Narrower and lighter than an auto
Probably will never see the inside of a manual tranny as long as you own your ATV
Technically it should be better for towing (though, not sure that's the case anymore)
Manuals don't need to be vented, and are completely sealed, which is always a good thing
Can hold the engine in rpm's where you want them
Shifting is fun (I think)
Cheaper cost
But, both will work, and both have pos/neg, really comes down to preference. If you liked the manual you had on the 300, then I would probably stick with the manual and pocket the $200. However, if you think you would prefer the auto, then go for it. It's really personal preference now-adays. IMHO
#10
The belt for the AC autos is a lot more than $10.00. It's more like $150.oo. It should last 10,000 miles according to the engineers at the plant, provided you keep the belt housing clean and don't get it wet constantly. It also takes a little more than an hour to change the belt because of the design of the belt system. It's always under tension and you have to work the pulleys out to get the belt to slide over the sheave lips. This can be a real pain for one, and if not done correctly you could ruin the pulleys.


