hey, knowsalot...got one for ya....im tryin to rig my big red up to run /charge/start with a battery....but the wirings pretty shot. maybe you might know what color the stator wire is that goes to the battery...and what wires go to the starter solenoid and the start button....does it switch ground, or hot to the solenoid?--just wanna make sure the battery will charge if i put it in...thanks man...
found a solenoid off of an old honda streetbike...same as the one on the 3 wheeler...i love hondas
and maybe if i havent challenged you enough, you might know what color wires go to the lights up front...(i just really need to know what wire is power off the stator, cant keep it idleling long enough to test wires)

 

Hey odyssey.

I have ran into a few of the '84 ES and the '84 TRX models as well that have had chopped wiring on them. I have seen alot with charging problems to. What I have always found, is that the wiring was "chopped" up to bypass the rectifier so that the machine would still run. I have ran aross very few that had the headlights connected...LOL

Anyway, the '84 models have a wiring setup different from any other 200 and are nothing like the 250. I don't have any wiring harnesses lying around. Just a few stators...just in case I get another of these one day[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Getting bak to the point....I only have a piece of a wiring diagram here. Hope it helps out with your problem.

The red/black stator wire meets the red battety wire and then continues into the rectifier. It also branches again and goes to the ignition switch.

Your headlight wires should be of 3 wires.......[1]Dark Green.....[1]White.....and [1]Blue

On your run/off/run switch, the dark green wire runs to the pickup coil under the CDI cover on the head.

On your "start" push button......both wires are green/red........one goes to the neutral switch on the engine and the other goes into the starter relay before continueing on into the solenoid.

 

knowsalot....im familiar much more with automotive electrical systems....can i run the headlamp directly off of the stator? or will i need to wire in the rectifyer/battery...oh, and does the rectifier have to be hooked up in series with the battery, like inline with it?--got that decomp lever...thank you very much...my arm was getting very tired, and my pull cord was getting shorter and shorter...
---this may be a stupid question, but is the rectifier the thing next to the battery box with cooling fins on it?

 

The item you describe with fins on it is indeed the rectifier.

You can't run the headlights directly from the lighting coil portion of the stator. The stator puts it's juice out in AC, then goes to the rectifier where it is converted into DC for the lights and ignition. The rectifier also has a regulator built in to keep the output constant to keep from blowing lightbulbs......so basically, there is no way to operate the lights without the rectifier, or if it's bad, at least the regulator portion has to work. It should keep the volatge between 14 and 17 volts when working properly.

 

What I ended up doing on my father's '84 TRX200 is that I hooked up the lights directly to the battery and had a toggle switch put in line to operate it along with an in-line fuse in case anything tried to blow. I never had a problem with it connected this way.

 

hey man, i knee deep in the wiring right now...haha...pulled all the sheathing off of it, and im not sure how it was running before. the green wire looks like it should be the power source for everything, it and a red wire come out of the rectifier(two yellows go in from the stator)---the green wire is grounded out somehow..(tested resistance to ground)--if it is, i dont know where the coil is getting power from..?? the red wire from the rectifier appeared not to be hooked up to anything at all..and showed a couple of volts when i turned to motor over. maybe goin back out after my chicken dinner will allow me to have an enlightenment.

 

LOL......Sounds better than what I had to eat.

OK......Grabbing schematic.....or what's left of it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

From the rectifier.....
The red wires goes to the battery and to the ignition switch.

Both yellow wires go directly to the stator only....they do not suppose to splice into anything else along the way by what I'm seeing.

The dark green wire goes to the pulser coil behind the CDI over. It does splice into a few other wires along the way....The taillight, run/off/run switch, CDI box, coil, headlight, and ignition switch.

 

ok....i think i figured it out. i have 2 yellow wires out of my stator that run to the rectifier, from the rectifier, a green ground wire runs to the coil, cdi, everything. the red wire out of the rectifier wasnt hooked up to anything...i presume it is for my lighting/starter solenoid. there is also a black wire that comes out at the same place as my yellow wires(out of the crankcase). this wire provides dc 12v power apparently, without the rectifier. it runs to the ignition switch, kill switch, and the the cdi box. when i turn my kill switch off, it grounds this wire out to the green wire.
ok--now another question. my ignition stator, the black wire, puts out around 7-8 volts when pulling the motor over. the red wire off the rectifier puts out maybe 2-4volts. am i just not turning the motor over fast enough to get a better voltage? or do i have a weak lighting stator or rectifier maybe?
also, should the lighting stator (red wire) be hooked up directly to the battery off of the rectifier?
i think ill try your idea(knowsalot) on wiring the lights to the battery with a toggle switch.

ps- if anyones reading this and doin the same wiring as me, post something and maybe i can help you or you can help me.

 

The red wire coming from the rectifier goes to the battery cable....between the solenoid swith and the batteryitself.

It has a 10 Amp glass fuse right before it splies into the battery cable wire.



As for the voltage specs.

On the rectifier, it must be removed from the frame to eliminate a bad ground from screwing up your test.

Since you don't seem to be new to electrical repair, you probally already know this, but don't use a cheap $10 ohmmeter from Autozone. I've never seen one read the same as my Snap-On

Voltage Regulator
Yellow to Red.............Infinity
Yellow to Yellow.........1-50 ohm
Yellow to Green..........0.1 to 10 ohm
Green to Red..............Infinity
Green to Yellow..........0.5 to 50 ohm
Green to Yellow#2......0.5 to 50 ohm
Yellow to Green...........0.1 to 10 ohm
Red to Yellow..............0.1 to 10 ohm
Red to Yellow..............0.1 to 10 ohm
Red to Green..............0.2 to 30 ohm


Stator
Two coils on the stator ofcourse. One primary and one lighting.......one yellow wire for each.

Primary ignition coil.........Set ohmmeter to RX10......Check for resistance between the Blak/red wire and known ground. The resistane should be between 100 and 400 ohms.

Lighting coil........Set ohmmeter to RX10........check for continuity between the white/yellow wire and a known good bround. Any continuity at all will be assuming the lighting coil is good.

 

bringing 200es back to life, last item is the ignition switch. can i use a simple universal switch and if so what is the wiring for it. have one wire as a constant and another for the headlight. the other 2 i have no clue