Howdy folks. Long time reader, first time poster. Rebuilding a 1984 200s. Fairly handy with a wrench, but mostly worked on sleds. Ordered a shop manual then lost it somewhere (a fine start). Does anyone know if the carb is choked when the lever is up (parallel to the ground) or down (pointing towards the ground)? Lever just says "choke". No arrow or anything indicating which position is choked. I will eventually be rebuilding the carb, so I 'll find out for sure then, but I'd like to try and fire it up once I get the engine put back together. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

First of all, welcome to the forums, its an awesome group[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Secondly, NOT a stupid question. I also have an '84 200s, and we had the same exact problem until we used logic to figure it out.
To answer your question, the choke is ON when DOWN and OFF when UP[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

catchme, thanks for the welcome and the info. I sat there staring at the carb trying to envision which way the lever would get pushed or pulled if it had a choke cable that ran to the bars. putting the head back on tonight. will post updates as they develop.

 

Sounds good

 

welcome barrister

enjoy

 

Welcome to the forum

 

Thanks for the welcomes all. Here's the latest regarding my rebuild project. First a little background. The guy who gave me the wheeler said it ran good last time he rdore it, but that was two years ago and it had ben sitting since then. I took the top end of the motor off to examine the piston/jug and valves. Surprisingly, everything looked pretty clean. No rust, and all the parts seemed to move freely. Put the head and valve cover back on, put some good gas in it, and pulled it over. Again, much to my surprise, it fired up. Seemed to run just fine as long as the choke was on. As soon as I shut the choke off, it would immediately kill, even after it warmed up. Not having my repair manual (see first posting, I have since ordered another) I started tinkering with the screws on the side of the carb, on the assumption that the higher one was idle speed and the lower one (near the bottom of the float bowl) was some sort of fuel/air mixture screw. Neither one seemed to make a really significant difference, although I was able to dial down the idle to a nice even speed as long as the choke was on. Well, I played around for a while, and then it just shut down completely. Set the carb screws back to where I thought they had been originally, but still nothing. Checked the plug. Good spark, but bone dry, even after I'd been pulling the hell out of it for ten minutes. Figuring maybe theres a clogged jet in the carb. Am planning to take it apart and clean it tonight (Should be doing it now, but my mortgage company requires monthly payments, which in turn necessitates my going to work. Capitalist bastards.) Anyway, until my new repair manual arrives (another 3-5 business days) I am wondering if someone can help me answer the following questions.
1) Any idea why it would run great with the choke on, but die as soon as I turn the choke off?
2) Am I right about the screws on the side of the carb. That is, is the higher one idle speed and the lower one a fuel-air adjustment?
3) Anybody know the factory preset positions of those two screws?
Sorry to join the forum and start pimping people for info so heavily already, but like I said, I'm waiting for my repair manual to arrive. I do appreciate all the feedback I've already gotten. Hopefully, I can contribute some info that someone else needs.

 

I have a 110 that does the same thing with the carb (choke off, it dies) . I cant figure it out either.

 

carb pic
Looking at this picture, #8 is the idle speed adjustment screw. It goes into the ramped area of the slide and lifts it up. #5 is the mixture screw, bottom side of the intake, in front of the float bowl.
Something in the idle circuit is plugged up. The two common things are the pilot jet,#23, also called the slow jet. And the other is the air bleed, which i think is your carbs problem. Its a very tiny hole, in the intake, on the air filter side, which runs parallel to the air flow. It might take a very tiny copper wire to push out the obstuction. A single strand of 22 gauge stranded wire works , or maybe 20, if thatll fit.
Somewhere around 2-2 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw is a good place to start. The idle screw is set for around 1400 rpms. Without a tach, set it for as low as it will reliably idle when warm, or a little faster. When youre in gear and idleing, you dont want to be so fast as to have the clutch trying to engage.

heres two good sites on carb cleaning


carb cleaning
carb
Let us know how it goes.

 

Hey sorry for being such an idiot, I just found out that the choke is off when down[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img] Sorry again, and I hope it didnt cause you any frustration.

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