Rod Bearing
#2
Rod Bearing
One way to check the (big end) bearing is by pulling it up against the crank journal (piston and cylinder removed) and lightly smacking the little end with your palm. A bad bearing will "click" louder than a good one. It takes experience but hopefully You will be able to get it. I should be able to be moved back and forth VERY little. It takes experience, have a mechanic show you if you don't know.
#3
#4
Rod Bearing
The rod has no side to side play between the crank halves, and has a .65mm gap between the rod and the crank halves(shop manual says max is 1mm)so that is in tolerance, but the rod definately moves up and down vertically(about 1 to 1.25mm) and clicks when pulled up and pushed down. Like it is popping in and out. I assume this is all bad news. It doesn't seem to be binding at all when I rotate it around though. It does have a rubbing noise when doing so. Guessing the rubbing noise could be from no luberication while I turn it over by hand. If this all needs to be replaced does anyone know of a good, fair priced crank assembly. Please more input is greatly appreciated.
#5
Rod Bearing
Your manual shoul have some specs for up and down play. I would get it for you, but my manual is sitting in my buddies shop still. If you are unsure, take the thing to a competent machinist and see what they say.
If it does need replaced, you have 3 options. Shell out $300+ for a new crank assembly. Send it somewhere to have a new rod and bearing pressed on(about $125 plus shipping charges) or Ebay it. I got an almost new crank off Ebay for $60 shipped. If yougo the ebay route, just check for great feedback and ask for the specs you ar measuring righ now before bidding.
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