OK I have a 1983 185s n the problem is it will start fine when cold then when u ride it around n it gets hot it will shut down..then it won't start for like 15-20min n i checked when it was hot n shut off n i couldn't get a spark...somebody said that it could be points and the condesor i didn't think they had that..could it be the CDI box? any info would be great..i am gonna try and get a clymers manual also...but any help is greatly appreciated thanks

 

Someone else had a problem like this on his atc and it was his gas tank was full of rust. It cloged everything up. Clean out your tank, pit ****, and carb. Then see how it runs.

 

I would change your CDI box, I would think it might be the carb too, but if you said you dont get any spark after warm? then that would probably have to be your CDI

 

how much would a new cdi run me?

 

Bike bandit cdi...


Looks like will be about 150 for a new one. I would clean out your fuel system and then run it see if it runs longer.

 

YIKES! ya i'll try cleanin it out n the carb n see where that puts me..better to throw out no money n maybe get somewhere

 

Have you confirmed that it is not firing after it quits??
15 to 20 min is a long time to be a CDI problem as it generates no more heat after 15 min than it would after just 5 min in equal environment and run time conditions.

If you really have no fire, I would say stator.

If it is firing, I say you have a fuel tank ventilation problem. Remove the gas cap and try starting it the next time it quits on you.

 

I agree with knowsalot.. I just bought and fixed a 1983 lt125 same thing. The exciter coil (behind flywheel) was bad. The manual said ohm wise should have been 350-450 ohms it was about 230 ohms. (new one was about 400) Must have had partial short of some windings. Engine heat , took near an hour for re-start, where CDI problem whould cool quickly
Even when cold, spark was weak. I bought the coil by itself , about $40.

Now all I need it to explain the CONSTANT valve ticking, valve gap set correct, I'm thing broken valve spring?? Any thoughts?

 

when it got hot n shut off i checked for spark n there was nothing i removed the gas cap to try and fire it and nothing...How easy is it to check the ohms on the exciter coil? If its easy then i have no problem doing that..could someone please help explain how to check get to the exciter coil and do the test thanks. How come there is no battery or ignition switch on this model? thanks

 

Measure with ohmmeter ($10 Sears on sale) where they plug into CDI box . Unplug (after noting colors) and connect one test lead to clean ground and the other to each of the coil wires (each has one wire, the other side is grounded in engine, or should be). I have 3 Exciter (340-450 ohm) pulser (120-200) and lighting coil ( less than 1 ohm, plus meter leads). Check a Chiltons manual for (or maybe some one here could read in service manual) for resistance limits for your machine.
I bought mine (LT125) just a few weeks ago, several guys toyed with it for a year or so and gave up , They bought CDI ($$$)and Spark Coil ($) and it did not fix, but I switched old and new CDI and COIL and they made it run slightly better and worse. Seemed odd, but it helped me guess that poor or low Exciter output (AC source for CDI cap charging) made for varied results in otherwise GOOD , but slightly different electrical system parts. Now with full Exciter voltage, all other parts work fune.

Now if I could figure out my valve tick .....

No Ign. switch ,kill switch (later years did) Battery = weight and $$$$ ,Excier coil makes power for spark.
For the week until I fixed it, it was had to start, blister on hand to prove, now my 11 year old son starts easy. And it runs for for than 20 minutes !!!! Good Luck
Mark