K guys, I checked the filaments and wires and they seem fine.

I got the dash out, now I want to know how do I get the bulb out of the tube?!? There's the red plastic, then it turns to white plastic. I figure it must seperate between those 2 parts, but I can't seem to take them apart.

Any tricks I should know about??

 

They don't come apart. That is all one peice. And that is the way hey come when you order a new one as well. The auto parts store is quicker and cheaper though.

 

So I just take out the whole plastic tube, and my local auto parts store will have a identical one?

To take it out, you just pull it out from the front right (or push from the back)

 

Yes that is correct. I usually get mine from Kragen auto parts. But Im sure any will do. Even Pep Boys prolly.

 

Okay, here's where it gets tricky.

I took off the dash again, and went in there with a current tester.

I stuck the needle of the tester in the red (hotwire) of the temp light and grounded my tester. The light on my tester came on. Meaning there's a current in my hotwire going to the temp light. Now, I go and stick the needle in the black wire (ground) of the temp light, and the temp light turns on...So that pretty much clarifies that my bulb is not burnt right?

So I'm thinking my black wire is improperly grounded or is either cut or corroded. Am I correct in asuming this?

If I'm right, how would I go about fixing it.

Thanks

 

I still believe your light is bad. The interal connections to the filiment are lose. When you pushed on the spade that sticks out of the bottom of the light, you inadvertenly made the connection good and thus lighting the light. There only like a buck 99 at an outo parts store. Cheap enough even if im wrong. And if i am, ya gotta spare. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

But see, I don't mind buying a new light, it's just that, I slid off the rubber boot on the little connecting plate thingy....and just with a gentle non-pressure touch of the tester, it came on instantly and stayed on until I moved off the tester. Since I'm not really moving anything, just making a connection, I don't see how it's loose filaments..Although you prolly know 10x more than I do, I don't feel that's the problem.

Sorry I don't want to sound stubborn, but I don't think replacing the bulb will fix it.

Jeff

 

Your in a much better possition than I am to diagnose the problem that is for sure. And I doubt very much if I know more than you. Just trying to help ya figure it out thats all. If you suspect that it is a grond problem. Just cut a sort section of wire. Connect it to the spade connector of the light, then to the frome some place if it works. Trace the factory wire to it's ground point.

 

Okay,

I grounded the light myself using a seperate wire. And now the light is always on...LOL...

It turns on when I turn the key to on, and does not turn itself off after the engine is turned on or even after a few minutes. There's no way it was overheating because the engine was cold and the fan never came on.

I think my oil pressure is fine, I haven't checked but the engine seems to running great..There would be symptons if oil pressure was low or it had none at all right??

So in the end, this must mean I have a busted sensor somewhere!?!?!

Any opinions..?!?

Any tips on what to do next?!?

 

Yes you most likely have a bad oil pressure switch and or Temp switch. Acording to the wiring diagram the ground leg is the switch leg. It goes to both the oil and temp switches via the ground wire.

Edited / added
Actually I read your very first post again. So i would say it's the oil pressure switch that is bad. The light not going out now is because you have it grounded now. But you prolly figured that out now.