CAN-AM (BRP) Discussions about CAN-AM ATVs.

trinity stage iv jetting

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Old May 30, 2003 | 01:04 PM
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bigslim78's Avatar
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Default trinity stage iv jetting

hey guys, i'm pretty new to this and don't know much about mechanics, especially carbs, so what kind of jetting do you recommend with the stock carb with the stage iv pipe...what all settings should i change, should i buy a jetting kit or just change the main, etc. i'm riding at sea level. thanks
 
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Old May 31, 2003 | 01:29 AM
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Default trinity stage iv jetting

airbox lid removed, 190main 45 pilot idle air screw 2 1/2 turns
 
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Old May 31, 2003 | 01:36 AM
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Default trinity stage iv jetting

Bigslim, I found this link to be useful, it list the setups used by a number of DS riders. You can see the Jetting along with the Mods others have tried.

DS Settings
 
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Old Jun 2, 2003 | 03:38 PM
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Default trinity stage iv jetting

thanks sandbomb, that's a pretty useful site
 
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Old Jun 2, 2003 | 10:20 PM
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Default trinity stage iv jetting

heres one for you. im kinda lost on what to do here. ive got a 2000 ds and i have the trininty iv, jet kit and a k & n. since the installation of the pipe it has been hard to start, but only when cold. it runs like a champ once its warm always starting on the first click of the start button. anyways i installed the later and it has gotten worse. i run with the lid off, but it sputters through the carb at startup, sometimes pushing the carb out of the intake grommet. i have a 190 jet in it and the plugs show me a rich condition, but the trinity glows red at the head and about 7 inches out. am i too rich, too lean? wrong jet? im at sea level, with the pilot jet at 2 1/4 turns out. please help.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2003 | 11:29 PM
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Default trinity stage iv jetting

llt1001, Does it seem to be running a little hot? I have a 2000 and I'm working thru the same problem. What I found was the Intake Valves are way too tight, that is there is suppose to be .004" to .006" of clearance between the Valve Cam and the Valve Stem Shims. If they are tight the clearance is less, or in my case none, it's tight against the cam at TDC. While cold, this allows the intake to remain open slightly when you first try to start the thing and as it heats, things expand closing the gap, that's why is back fires out the carb at start up. The answer is to messure the current shims and figure out the new proper one's. I'm having problem locating narrow enough ones, I'm right at the limit of need valve work I guess. I'll list a couple of site I've found that may help you.
If not resolved more problems will occure.

Good Luck


BMW Valves

Glamisdunes DS info
On the Glamis site use the pull down box and click on valves.
 
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