Funny sound after putting in the piston and cams?
#21
Mud- yeah i have the JE, and I was told by the second hand I got it from that it was 11.2, but I was later told by somebody else that JE only makes the 11.5, and no 11.2, so I can't say for sure, but either way there's not enough difference between the two to matter.
Wish I could help more, sounds are the hardest to troubleshoot over the net. if you can hear it with the motor off, rotating the crank with the wheels in gear like you said, then its definitely mechanical.
The only noise I have after my rebuild that I never had before was a little more timing chain slap, which I cured by boosting the idle from the 1400 factory spec to 1700.
Wish I could help more, sounds are the hardest to troubleshoot over the net. if you can hear it with the motor off, rotating the crank with the wheels in gear like you said, then its definitely mechanical.
The only noise I have after my rebuild that I never had before was a little more timing chain slap, which I cured by boosting the idle from the 1400 factory spec to 1700.
#22
Well,
I put in the new manual tensioner.. it allows for about 1-2 mm of movement so its pretty tight.. Thats was RW said....
I wonder if its the decompressioner??
I put in the new manual tensioner.. it allows for about 1-2 mm of movement so its pretty tight.. Thats was RW said....
I wonder if its the decompressioner??
#23
excessive valve lash will make the top end noisy I keep mine around .005-.007. Have you experimented with the higher octane fuel? I'd try something over 100 just to rule that out. Were the squish areas elevated over the cylinder at all? Maybe the piston is smaking the head. Rods stretch slightly when you start running the engine. Besides some chain slap from a loose chain I'd have a problem helping you too without hearing it...
Get a large screw driver and put it to the area that you think the noise is coming from then put your ear on it like a doctors stethascope try and pin the noise down to a specific area and let us know .Good luck
Get a large screw driver and put it to the area that you think the noise is coming from then put your ear on it like a doctors stethascope try and pin the noise down to a specific area and let us know .Good luck
#25
Well, on the CAMS I used RED lock tite and I used my impact wrench to slam them puppys on...
Like I said, I can turn motor with the rear tires and it makes the sound.. I think I will have a friend help me find the noise.. I kinda think its something with the cams but I cant see it in back. I need to have my eyes and ears up on the motor when it turns.
Like I said, I can turn motor with the rear tires and it makes the sound.. I think I will have a friend help me find the noise.. I kinda think its something with the cams but I cant see it in back. I need to have my eyes and ears up on the motor when it turns.
#26
what valve springs did you put in? the web spring say don't go over 425, and the a-1 is 433 which i'm told will cause coil bind. i don't think this is your problem but you might check just to make sure. there's not a chance you got the piston in backwards is there where valves could be hitting in there? there is something i would keep digging until i find it i have that set-up and it doesn't click.
#27
No, not the springs cause I have web springs and the .433 cam.
Sandman, where'd you find that Web says to not go over .425 lift with their springs? That would suck, if a guy had a mind to change to .450 cams from RW he'd have to replace springs too, if its true.....
Sandman, where'd you find that Web says to not go over .425 lift with their springs? That would suck, if a guy had a mind to change to .450 cams from RW he'd have to replace springs too, if its true.....
#29
I just want to know why you used Red loctite instead of Blue and why you used an imapct gun? That is a good way to ruin some cams in a big hurry! You only need Blue loctite and torque the bolts to I beleive it was 37 ft. lbs.


