Okay I did the first step. I removed the stock studs. I have no clue what torque specs to put them in and I used blue lock-tite on the threads that go down in the motor. I tightened them by hand and then used pliers to give it a sure grip in. They seem pretty well rooted now in there. Is there a tool to tighten with? I got a bolt/stud remover but if I used that I will damage the top threads (I did removing the stock ones) where the head needs a nut to hold everything in place. Is the german spec "good n tight" fine for these stay bolts?

One thing that concerns me most is my cams. I dont' recall on the stocker but there is a centrifugal decompressor (which seems to be activated by a spring) and if my memory serves me it should snap back on it's own via the spring. Well mine just stays open or shut. It doesnt' snap back. I'm not sure which cams Gary sold me but I asked him to give me something that won't lose bottom end. He said he was going to give me some cams that are great "all around". I also notcied in my package literature from Web Cams, so I am assuming it's something from the Web Cam line.

Finally, my last conern is that the pin at the end of that same cam with the decompressor seems to stick out farther on one side than the other. Is that normal? If so what can I do or use to drive it in evenly?

 

If you need a hand give me a call

 

To install the bolts (Which I've never done on the DS, however the theory should be the same) find two nuts which and place them both onto the bolt. Now tighten one of the nuts towards the other nut until they are very tight together. By binding these two nuts, you've now got a psuedo bolt head which you can use to tighten the stud. Once you are done tightening, just loosen one of the nuts and they'll both be easy to remove. Now you have tight studs and good threads.

I've got nothing on the rest of your questions, good luck - I think you're gonna love it.

 

Were your cams sent to you with the decompresser too tight?
Drive the pin in until it is evenly spaced. The pin fits the bore so tight that it usually pinches the lever between the two bosses on the cam. Now turn it over and tap the pin back out only slightly until the lever free's up.

I hope those cams werent set to you that way, if so that is some very sloppy work and a good way to get an exhaust valve bent.

Hand tight or snug with the two bolt trick is fine on the studs.



MrHorsepower

 

So the studs don't need much torque at all then. That is a really good thing to know. Makes a lot more sense than "good and tight."

 

The BlackHawk,

That is a brilliant idea. I'm going to do that now. I'm in the process of trying to get the wrist pin in on the top end of the crank. My ring compressor broke but I manage to get in the piston in the sleeve. It's becoming simpler than I thought. As far as the cam thing I'm really concerned. MisterHP might have a point there. I'm really concerned with it. I will take a picture and post on my picture page perhaps some can give more more insight when shown. What can I use to drive it in however? A clamp? Tap it with a screw driver?

 

The pin that holds the key in place is held in by the key itself. The key and the pin both pivot together. The reason it is tight is due to the black coating that Web Cam uses on their cams. The coating gets inside the pin holes and makes the pin to tight. You can do two things #1 shoot some wd40 on the pin and work it back and forth and it should loosen up.#2 Punch out the pin and clean the coating out of the holes with some emery cloth. If have to take the pin out be sure to support the back side of the cam ear.

 

I can't seem tighten the new nuts that are supplied with the staybolts. The socket that fits it is too thick (the walls of the socket) and it doesn;t allow me to tighten them. So I'm going to use the stockers plus the new washers that Gary supplied. The cam issue is defintely going to halt me from closing it all up.

Anyone know if the studs that hold the headpipes is something I can grab at an autoparts store? I'd like to fire it up once I slap this thing together. Those studs are the last peice of the puzzle.

 

Don't use the stock nuts!!! Get a Snap-On 17mm 6 point socket and do it right.

 

those nuts take a thin wall socket snap-on sells them. there 17.00 out here i told you about it in a earlier thread.