How do i change my oil ? what shod i do and buy ?? stock 03'' ds

 

There are a few things to do, buy.
Buy a service manual
Clean the oil tank screen
Use good oil, ie factory, amsoil synthetic, honda hp4, etc. Must be designed for wet clutches
Use a new oil filter, and use the bleeder circut to ensure oil is getting to the motor before start up
You have to drain the cases and the oil tank.

Other than that it should be easy. You can do a search for oil changes and engine oil and you will come up with all the forum members ideas on oil and their discoveries when they cleaned the oil tank screen.

Good luck

Justin

 

Good info BajaIowa. I just started using BMW Special Performance oil for my DS650. Be sure to always check the tank strainer or you could have big problems later on.

 

will 10w40 castrol do ok ? it has 10w30 castrol in it ,thats what the dealership used but i think 10w40 may do beter ? also is there a step by step on how to change my oil?

 

I just did oil change in my bike today and i've found that checker has Valvoline 4 stroke designed for wet cluthes works GREAT for me. especaliy@ 2.99 a quart

 

I changed my oil with castrol gtx 10w-40 and have about 5 hrs with it in my DS and it runs great. Clutch isnt slipping a bit and i think i paid around 2$ a quart.

RoughRider01

 

Castrol make some oil for wet clutches-actevo and go atv. These are good oils, but the actevo is part synthetic and is much better. Just beware and don't run castrol gtx oil for cars. It is labeled energy conserving which means that it has friction modifiers which cause the clutch to slip. I use the factory oil because ron woods reccomended it and that is what rotax specified. It is very expensive, but you didn't spend $6000 on a machine just to tear it up did you? As far as step by step, I think it is as follows.

Take out the plug on the bottom of the engine-17mm-can be reached through the hole in the skip plate
Take out the plug in the bottom of the black oil tank on the front of the motor.
When the oil drains out of the tank take off the black hose on the bottom of the tank.
Unscrew the fitting that the hose was attached to- on the fitting is the screen I was talking about.
Clean the screen very well, and make sure there are NO metal particles left on it
When done with this put the fitting, hose, and two drain plugs back in
On the right hand side of the motor under the exhaust heat shroud is the oil filter cover
There are two 5mm allen head bolts that hold the cover on
Take them out and pull off the cover and pull out the filter
There is an o-ring that seals the cover-take care not to damage, if damaged, replace
Fill the oil tank with three liters of the oil of your choice
Inside the filter housing on the bottom is a flat head screw
Loosen and crank the engine until oil comes out of the screw hole
Make sure the handlebar switch is turned off so the engine won't start
Tighten the screw back up
Install new oil filter
Reinstall filter cover being careful not to pinch the wires that run along the right side of the cover
Start engine and make sure the red oil light turns off very quickly
Run engine for awhile and check the oil to make sure there is enough in the system
YOU'RE DONE[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

If I missed anything, please someone chime in

Justin

 

PS as far as oil weight goes. With a synthetic you can go pretty thin. Factory is 5w-40. Most people who run a conventional use 10w-40 in the winter and anywhere from 20w-50 to straight 50w in the summer. Conventional oil can foam up in the hot weather if it is too thin.

Justin

 

BajaIowa: That bleed screw is so damn tight! I couldn't get it off without stripping the head. Yes, I had a very big flat-head screw driver. I felt that I needed an impact wrench to torque on it. I read and asked for advice of others in this forum. I was told I didn't necessarily have to bleed the system. When I changed my oil the first time I tried to loosen the screw, when I couldn't get it without stripping the head off, I asked questions regarding bleeding. Based on some replies, I didn't bleed the system. I've had no problems. The oil light was on for 8 seconds before it went off after my first oil change. The dealer performed the second oil change at the 10 hour check.

I'd like to talk to a Bomb or Rotax engineer regarding the process.

 

I agree with you guys. I have never bled the oil system on my quad, but how would I feel if I forgot to mention something and then he lockeds up his motor[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]. I just didn't want to forget anything.

Justin