Just saw some nice Jugs!!!
#11
I do not believe team Pami uses a sleeve, it too is a cast cylinder like Mr. HP new cylinder. TVI uses a stock cylinder, bores it out and presses in a sleeve.
Is the nikisil really that thick? I always though of it as a thin coating. If it didn't have the nikisil coating, can a piston be ran reliably on a bare aluminum cylinder or is a steel sleeve necessary.
It looks like if Mr Hp didnt have the nikisil you might have enough room for a 107mm bore superlight piston with no prob
#12
I dont think the nikisil would be 2 mm thick , I thought it was easier to bore raw steel, than nikisil.. I may be wrong I dont know much about boreing, But since the stock cylinder of a ds usually isnt bored and it is nikisil I thought same would apply for for bigger sleeve + nikisil.
I run a steel sleeve with no nikisil, with no heating probs, but I have an outer black coating on my cyli. and head that dissipates heat fast ( I am sure the nikisil helps alot though ). I dont know about if it would hold up with aluminum...
Can you bore a nikisil sleeve? Mr Hp can you chime in if you got your eyes on?LOL
I run a steel sleeve with no nikisil, with no heating probs, but I have an outer black coating on my cyli. and head that dissipates heat fast ( I am sure the nikisil helps alot though ). I dont know about if it would hold up with aluminum...
Can you bore a nikisil sleeve? Mr Hp can you chime in if you got your eyes on?LOL
#13
Someone please correct me if I am wrong,
Annihilater, the reason you are running a steel sleeve is because you had your stock cylinder bored out, the result is the aluminum cylinder walls are too thin, they press in a steel sleeve to add strength and rigidity that a thin aluminum cylinder can not provide.
I believe the nikisil coating adds hardness and friction benefits, it can also be applied to iron/steel cylinders.
I assume in theory you could take Mr. HP cylinder bore it out and put in a new sleeve.
Annihilater, the reason you are running a steel sleeve is because you had your stock cylinder bored out, the result is the aluminum cylinder walls are too thin, they press in a steel sleeve to add strength and rigidity that a thin aluminum cylinder can not provide.
I believe the nikisil coating adds hardness and friction benefits, it can also be applied to iron/steel cylinders.
I assume in theory you could take Mr. HP cylinder bore it out and put in a new sleeve.
#14
From the looks of Mr. HPs website, noting all of the new products he is developing I think he's spending his time making crap for us to buy! Now thanks to Eric we can all make our DS' lighter & faster just by writing a few checks - no research needed!
#15
This cylinder should be capable of 107mm but the cases will have to be machined and the jug would be special order because the skirt would be machined different with more meat left on it.
Nikisil is only about .003 thick per side. To bore a Nikisil cylinder you have to hone the Nikisil out then bore the aluminum to desired size then re Nik and hone.
This cylinder will never be recommended with a cast iron sleeve.
Nikisil is only about .003 thick per side. To bore a Nikisil cylinder you have to hone the Nikisil out then bore the aluminum to desired size then re Nik and hone.
This cylinder will never be recommended with a cast iron sleeve.
#17
there is some cunfusion in this thread about cylinders with coating vs. cylinders with sleeves.
you have two options -
1) a solid aluminum jug/cylinder with no sleeve at all, which dissipates heat faster than steel of course, but wears too fast, so it is coated with nikasil to prevent wear beacuse its superass hard stuff even harder than steel.
2) an aluminum jug with an iron sleeve.
mrhp already clarified what's done to bore a coated cylinder.
when I say sleeved cylinders run warmer, its something that you won't be able to see necesarily. since the sleeves don't dissipate heat as well as aluminum, then less combustion heat gets transfered to the water jacket, so coolant temps are lower, but combustion temp higher. with an aluminum cylinder, more heat gets transfered to the water jacket resulting in a higher coolant temp but lower combustion temp.
after a full throttle run up the hill, which is where I absolutely make the most heat, my motor coolant has really heated up, but the aluminum cylinder cools it right back down extremely rapidly and by the time I'm back down at the bottom I'm already cooled down as far as I was before I started the run, and ready to just run again. all this confirmed with a temp gauge on the coolant return line. This is another advantage of alum/nikasil over sleeved cylinders.
you have two options -
1) a solid aluminum jug/cylinder with no sleeve at all, which dissipates heat faster than steel of course, but wears too fast, so it is coated with nikasil to prevent wear beacuse its superass hard stuff even harder than steel.
2) an aluminum jug with an iron sleeve.
mrhp already clarified what's done to bore a coated cylinder.
when I say sleeved cylinders run warmer, its something that you won't be able to see necesarily. since the sleeves don't dissipate heat as well as aluminum, then less combustion heat gets transfered to the water jacket, so coolant temps are lower, but combustion temp higher. with an aluminum cylinder, more heat gets transfered to the water jacket resulting in a higher coolant temp but lower combustion temp.
after a full throttle run up the hill, which is where I absolutely make the most heat, my motor coolant has really heated up, but the aluminum cylinder cools it right back down extremely rapidly and by the time I'm back down at the bottom I'm already cooled down as far as I was before I started the run, and ready to just run again. all this confirmed with a temp gauge on the coolant return line. This is another advantage of alum/nikasil over sleeved cylinders.
#19
Originally posted by: Sandaholic
Someone please correct me if I am wrong,
Annihilater, the reason you are running a steel sleeve is because you had your stock cylinder bored out, the result is the aluminum cylinder walls are too thin, they press in a steel sleeve to add strength and rigidity that a thin aluminum cylinder can not provide.
I believe the nikisil coating adds hardness and friction benefits, it can also be applied to iron/steel cylinders.
I assume in theory you could take Mr. HP cylinder bore it out and put in a new sleeve.
Someone please correct me if I am wrong,
Annihilater, the reason you are running a steel sleeve is because you had your stock cylinder bored out, the result is the aluminum cylinder walls are too thin, they press in a steel sleeve to add strength and rigidity that a thin aluminum cylinder can not provide.
I believe the nikisil coating adds hardness and friction benefits, it can also be applied to iron/steel cylinders.
I assume in theory you could take Mr. HP cylinder bore it out and put in a new sleeve.
At this point It would NOT make sense to go w/ a 107 if you have to machine cases. (not worth the hassle)
The big league jug just looks real solid to me, and I will probably use this jug on my other ds motor.
Bare w/ me, I dont know that much about this cylinder stuff ( I am the first to admit)... But I sure could see the difference between my current cylinder and Mr Hp. cylinder. And I do know that originally my sleeve was not pressed in the right way and it moved a few times. I actually dont even know if my current sleeve is steel or cast iron!! lol That just goes to show ya how much I know. Ill have to ask Punisher.
Hightower and Mr.hp., and Sandaholic thanks for the info.
#20



