if anyone is looking at putting an A/R meter on their bike DO NO BUY A LED UNIT! they are a litttle cheaper $40-50 but you can't read them in sunlight. Be sure to pick up an LCD type unit. I am speaking from experiance.

 

Majerco

I just looked up the parts to fit up a sensor looks fairly straight forward i take it the boss needs to be welded to the front pipe Fairly close to the engine ?

Does it stick far into the pipe ie does it interupt the flow

 

As far as filters, I know that when mine was stock that I could take the airbox lid off and it still ran good. Put a UNI or K&N on without lid and it wouldn't even take over 1/2 throttle, so that tells me that the stocker is way more restrictive. I also remember hearing that it didn't make any difference on the dyno, but it sure can't hurt and aftermarkets are washable.

High octane fuel doesn't help HP at all, but when running high compression it is a must to run it to prevent preignition and detonation. Octane resists burning, so when a fuel with too much octane is ran in a lower compression engine it burns slower and cooler. I run 12.5:1 compression, I tried 110/93 mix which should be 101.5 octane and it knocked. I ran straight 110 and it was sluggish. Now I run 3 gallons 112 mixed with 2 gallons 93 which is 104.4 octane and it runs much better, major improvement from the straight 110.

I had no idea your fuel was so high over there. MrHp ran 87 octane in his stock bike, big difference from 95.

 

Blue250r,
I welded the bung @ the collector where the 2 head pipes meet, I have the heated O2 sensor so it wasn't critical to get it super close to the head. The tip ofhe sensor protrudes about 1/2" into the pipe and is about 1/2" in diameter, I really don't think it messes with the flow too much and think the benefits out weigh what little flow variances it creates.

 

majerco loks like a good set up
How much better is your tuning with it on did you find your jetting was far out after you hooked it up ?

Also on the octane thing i did a little researchv and found that there are a few different test specs for fuel all of which most of us take at face value as being the octane here is the best article i read

RON, MON or PON?
Or how do you grade petrol/gas
I have seen many European/US conversations claiming that one petrol/gas is better than another or higher rated. This may not be the case as different rating systems are used in different countries and so not all numbers mean the same thing. You must be careful to also quote the measurement system used
To see why there are different numbers let us take a trip back in time to World War I. Aviators had a problem, many engines would suddenly self destruct through detonation, which is bad news when you're up in the air. An engine might run fine on one batch of fuel but blow holes in the pistons on the next batch. The fuels seemed the same, weighed the same and may have even come from the same factory.
The fuel companies tried to analysis and standardise the petrol, but were unable to weed out the bad batches. Therefore a standard test engine with a variable compression facility was built and the fuel to be tested run through it. This heavy duty, single cylinder engine would be warmed to a standard temperature and at a set rpm the compression increased until engine knock occurred. this would give its Highest Usable Compression Ratio (HUCR).
But with time it was discovered that different labs gave different results. So in an attempt to produce an unvarying standard, two reference fuels were chosen. The high reference was 2-2-4 trimethylpentane (iso-octane), while the low reference was normal heptane (n-heptane). Once the HUCR was determined a mix of these to fuels was made up that exactly produced the same results as the HUCR test. The result is quoted as the percentage of iso-octane. Hence a petrol that detonated the same as a mix of 90% iso-octane and 10% n-heptane is called a 90 octane fuel.
Since that time a number of tests have come into being to simulate a variety of engine conditions. Motor Spirit is usually rated using the Research or Motor test methods. Both use the same old engine but under different conditions
Motor Octane Test (MON) Research Octane Test (RON)
Inlet air temperature 148.9 C 65.6 C
Engine jacket temp 100 C 100 C
Engine RPM 900 600
As you can see the Motor Octane Test employs a higher temperature and RPM and hence is probably a better indicator for today's engines. Of course the Research octane test gives a higher number and that's why the European manufacturers quote it (RON)
The spread between the two numbers is know as the fuels sensitivity, and it is very important. Because of the variety of engines it is possible for a petrol manufacturer to come up with a fuel that has a high RON, but a lower than expected MON. Hence although it looks normal on the pump it may perform badly. However on another day the same company may make its fuel out of a different blend to get the same RON but a different MON. This is done for profit reasons and is why you occasionally get bad fuel even though it is legally rated the same. In the past with high leaded fuels nobody noticed but nowadays high performance cars do notice (The Molemobile has just had a particularly bad batch from Total, and has been pinking all week)
In America the service stations use the Pump Octane Number or PON rather than RON. this is the average of RON and MON and gives a much better grade, and is also why the American gas always seems not as good as our when in fact it is is the same (and has better quality control). But even this system can be abused by adding octane boosters to poor fuel.
Below is an approximate comparison chart, these numbers can vary by as much as 2 grades
RON,, MON,, PON,,
90,, 83,, 86.6
92,, 85,, 88.5
95,, 87,, 91
96,, 88,, 92
98,, 90,, 94
100,, 91.5,, 95.8
105,, 95,, 100
110,, 99,, 104.5
So now you know far more you wanted to about RON, MON and PON. Knowing this you might begin to wonder why certain garages are always cheaper than others, and experiment with different fuels. I'm lucky, my new job has just given me a fuel card for private use, so I'm moving up to super unleaded, that way I can be assured I'm getting at least 95 RON


Ok still alive after reading that ?
it turns out that i am using 95 ron which is the same as the US 91 pon.

And might tell you why somtimes it doesnt do what it says on the tin [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Wow, great reading blue250r. And here I thought the whole world used R+M/2.

And now I have a question for you about fuel. Percentage wise there is not that many diesels in the states. More and more trucks are diesels, but there is hardly any cars in the states that are diesels.
Is this the case in Scotland? What does a gallon (litter) of diesel or gas cost in Scotland?

 

We pay from 80 to 85 pence ($1.50) a litre in scotland petrol and deisel are about the same price diesel usualy a penny more.
My car is petrol but my toyota 4x4 is diesel, there are a lot of diesel cars on the road here as they do a lot more miles to the gallon
And our government is taxing fuel to death along with the population.

I used litres instead of gallons as US gallons And imperial gallons are not the same

i have a 2.5 petrol bmw which gives around 36 to the gallon, the same car with the deisel engine does over 50 to the gallon (Highway driving) this isnt a huge differance but at the price we pay for fuel if you do a lot of miles its worth it. And some of the latest genaration diesel cars actualy out perform there petrol cousins.

 

GOOD GOD !! $150.00 for a litre ??? Nooooo or is that supposed to be $15.00 per litre ?? I knew it was expensive but not that bad ?!?!?

Check out my pics of the O2 set up ......

Major, I like the idea of the LCD display , do you have any recomendations as to where we can pick that up and whats the cost?? How accurate have you found the setup to be ?

Ill know more here in two weeks just how close it is when I get it Dyno Tuned.

 

Ok i got the . [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Been edited

 

Prozack, this is the unit I'm using A/F meter
I have an LED unit for cheap!( but you can only see it clearly at night[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]) Digital read out is the way to go. The read out is with in 10% of the read out I have on my lap top as I monitor my fuel injection- I don't know which one is more accurate but there is a small variance.