Pulling the head and jug
#1
i posted something earlier about pulling the head and jug and someone replied that if i did i could warp my head and i had to replace some bolts, i called mrhp and talked to bo he said there was no issue with pulling the head and jug other than if it was a tvi setup, any secrets to pulling my head and jug this weekend?
#2
Either pull the front motor mounts and loosen the rears to angle the motor forward, pull the motor all together, or grind the weld above the head to gain clearance to get it off. The person mentioning warped bolts was pulling the head with the motor still in place, didn't grind, used something to force the jug and head off, and bent the bolts in the process. PM me if you need any other help, I just did this not too long ago
#3
you shouldn't have an issue with a warped head, if that is truly what is the problem. I think that you're implying that the head studs will be bent, therefore the head/jug won't come off. I don't think that you'll have a problem either. Don't grind the mount of the frame. simply drop the front of the motor down slowly pry the head off little by little and then the jug.
let us know if you need anymore help.
let us know if you need anymore help.
#4
awesome i am gonna pull my whole motor and have my frame painted, they said i wukd have to replace some bolts two, i cant find the dang post either a couple of head bolts or jug bolts, but according to what you guys say its straight farward lke a two stroke ive done plenty of them, other than the cams, i dont hink my head is warped cause i am not using any antifreeze but i think i have a burnt valve and i figure as long as i am in there i might as well check my rings also, someone else told me these rotax motors are tough as diamonds and i would probably only need rings i hope, i did a compression test and i got 180 psi with the decom deactivated so i think she might be getting weak, then ill go with stock piston ported intake mrhp endcap
#6
Bigdaddy advises not to grind the weld, However I'm not sure why. Maybe he has some information that we don't know. By grinding the weld, this allows faster head installation and removal in the future instead of taking out motor mounts every time. If you plan on taking the head off on occasion, I'd personally grind the weld as I have.
Anyways, the spot to grind is the weld across the frame where the top rear motor mount is located. In front of the carb, but behiend the engine. If you are still confused, you definately can't miss it when you try to slide the head/jug off. You don't have to grind the weld off, just trim it down a bit, and this combined with the flex of the head bolts will allow the jug to slip by. Hopefully this clears things up for ya.
BTW, I'm just starting to tear my bike down as well. Going to rebuild it.... Change all the seals, bearings, bushings, powdercoat the frame and such, inspect everything, when it's all said and done, take care of it this time.
Wanna race? lol
Anyways, the spot to grind is the weld across the frame where the top rear motor mount is located. In front of the carb, but behiend the engine. If you are still confused, you definately can't miss it when you try to slide the head/jug off. You don't have to grind the weld off, just trim it down a bit, and this combined with the flex of the head bolts will allow the jug to slip by. Hopefully this clears things up for ya.
BTW, I'm just starting to tear my bike down as well. Going to rebuild it.... Change all the seals, bearings, bushings, powdercoat the frame and such, inspect everything, when it's all said and done, take care of it this time.
Wanna race? lol
#7
why bother grinding? wouldnt it just b quick to pull the bolts out and just tilt it?
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#8
Check my pictures. I think I still have something in there on where to grind away a little. It is really minimal.
I'm thinking the bolts someone told you to replace are the four head stud bolts that bolt through from the cases, through the cylinder and the head. You can get STIFFER HEAD BOLTS from TVI, The Bom (Pami) and others. These will stretch with the torque that is put on them which leads to head gasket failures.
Does any of this sound right?
I'm thinking the bolts someone told you to replace are the four head stud bolts that bolt through from the cases, through the cylinder and the head. You can get STIFFER HEAD BOLTS from TVI, The Bom (Pami) and others. These will stretch with the torque that is put on them which leads to head gasket failures.
Does any of this sound right?
#9
I'd say it would take longer not to grind. This being of course if you plan on rempving the head on more than one occasion. The motor mounts are tight tight.....You have to take the top one out, take the front ones out, and loosen the rears to pivot the motor. Then line them back up again, and get them torqued. This as opposed to grinding once and being done with it. Slip on... Slip off....lol


