Changing the clutch springs. Just a few last questions for those who did it ??
#1
Changing the clutch springs. Just a few last questions for those who did it ??
Well I have the bike raised up on the left side as far as it will go. I have the shifter lever off and the clutch linkage. I have a couple of questions before I pull the cover.
Will the spline for the clutch linkage stay on the cover when I pull it ?
I did not drain any fluids so will anti freeze or oil come out when the cover is pulled with the bike on its side ?
Any other suggestions will help here. Thanks,D
Text
Will the spline for the clutch linkage stay on the cover when I pull it ?
I did not drain any fluids so will anti freeze or oil come out when the cover is pulled with the bike on its side ?
Any other suggestions will help here. Thanks,D
Text
#2
#3
Changing the clutch springs. Just a few last questions for those who did it ??
Some people said there are 9 bolts holding the cover on. I count 14. Is this right ? I am taking the right cover off ? The clutch springs are located when sitting on the bike on the left side. The side the gear shifter is on right. Also can I leave the bolts in that go to the cover where the coolant lines attach ?
#4
Changing the clutch springs. Just a few last questions for those who did it ??
bike should be on its side. If that's what you mean by "raised up" then ok.
Did you remove the foot peg? Can't remember if you need to but, it will make the job easier.
The shift shaft will stay in place and the clutch cover will slide over it (is that what you are asking?
Don't need to drain fluids. Anti-Freeze shouldn't get into anything. You may spill a little oil so, be ready with some rags.
Before you pull the cover make sure your bike is clean. Don't want any dirt or sand getting in there.
When you go to put it together put some assembly lube or light grease on the shift shaft, clutch actuator, etc. There are some points that will cause binding when trying to put the cover back on. Be careful, the rack-actuation-clutch (comes out on a horizontal and engages the clutch actuator that slides through the cover) can get it's teeth chipped if you try to force the cover back on. Also, inspect it for damage before putting it back together. If either of these parts is damaged, replace.
The rack-actuation-clutch is clipped to a bearing that pulls on the clutch. If that bearing pops out of the cover, the rack-actuation-clutch will not line up with the clutch actuator. If you have trouble getting the bearing back in the cover, put the bearing in the freezer and the cover in the oven on 150 or 175 degrees MAX. The bearing will shrink slightly and the cover will grow slightly - enough to get them together.
Did you remove the foot peg? Can't remember if you need to but, it will make the job easier.
The shift shaft will stay in place and the clutch cover will slide over it (is that what you are asking?
Don't need to drain fluids. Anti-Freeze shouldn't get into anything. You may spill a little oil so, be ready with some rags.
Before you pull the cover make sure your bike is clean. Don't want any dirt or sand getting in there.
When you go to put it together put some assembly lube or light grease on the shift shaft, clutch actuator, etc. There are some points that will cause binding when trying to put the cover back on. Be careful, the rack-actuation-clutch (comes out on a horizontal and engages the clutch actuator that slides through the cover) can get it's teeth chipped if you try to force the cover back on. Also, inspect it for damage before putting it back together. If either of these parts is damaged, replace.
The rack-actuation-clutch is clipped to a bearing that pulls on the clutch. If that bearing pops out of the cover, the rack-actuation-clutch will not line up with the clutch actuator. If you have trouble getting the bearing back in the cover, put the bearing in the freezer and the cover in the oven on 150 or 175 degrees MAX. The bearing will shrink slightly and the cover will grow slightly - enough to get them together.
#6
Changing the clutch springs. Just a few last questions for those who did it ??
just a few tips had the cover off at least 5 times in last month. 1)Do NOT force the cover back on. it will damage the actuater splines. 2)only need to remove front foot peg bolt. 3)do not rotate the black plastic gear in the front portion of the case, makes it easier when putting back togather.4) use bungee cord to hold the outer case out of the way while working on clutch. 5)do not have to remove coolant lines nothing will leak. 6) remember to remove starter bolts 2 of them. 7) there is a copper washer on one of the bottom bolts to the outer case heard there are leak problems if it is not put back in the right place keep an eye out for it.8) the case is kinda stubborn going over the shifter spline lube it up and might take a little love tap in that area to get the case to slide over the splines due to a seal in there. 9)watch how the position of the clutch actuater arm is when disasembling and it should look same when case is fully seated after install again. 10) no need to adjust clutch lever, just grab it ( actuater on case)with some chanellocks and twist it as if pulling clutchlever to get the cable out of the mounting position on the case before removing case. hope this wasnt too late and helpfull even though rambling on. C.
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