nick what weve always done at the cycle shop when we had hard to remove carb bolts was to put them with a dremel so we could get a flat head on em. just be careful not to cut to far or the head will break off.
sam i now see the rod you are talking about. it def wasnt on the machine when i bought it. and the guy had it running this way. i just dont realise why the sudden diffrence in it running.
i positioned the nozel directly at the needle it was just a hair off.
where can i buy that rod and if i install it do you think it will solve my problem?
what would i have to do with the pilot jet in order to make it work with out the rod?
whats the bennefit to running the rod vs not?
i converted my ds to a twist throttle (ive been riding street bikes since i was 16 and got so use to em ive grown to dislike thumb throttles. i would like to get the machine going so i can atleast work out any other bugs. you suggested turning the pilot way up correect? (clockwise so the pilot goes inward?) how many turns? or is each application diffrent?
where can i buy that acc pump rod? id really like to fix it correctly.

hightower great site and that tm tuning section is exactly what i was looking for thanks a million.

 

yea i wanted to do the dremel deal, atempted it but the screw thats stripped on mine is that one thats not on the corner, the one closest to the middle, makes it very difficult to get to

 

do you own an impact driver? if you dont borrow 1. if your anywhere near orange county ny i'll lend you mine.

sam... i cleaned my carb again and bolted it back on for shi*s and giggles. started up no chooke 1st revolution of the starter. seemed to idle fine. if i grabbed any more than a 1\4 throttle it would pop and spudder and sometimes backfire out the back of the carb. if i gently got on it i could get close to half throttle before it popped and spuddered.
id like to try to play around with the pilot jet tomorrow and see if i can get anything out of it. tomorrow im going to see if i can find that rod for the acc pump. id really like to be able to even put around on it a bit just to make sure all is well afterall i just bought it sat knowing about the carb problem

 

rotax.net ron woods racing. it should help

don't hold me to this cuz I haven't done this but I do believe you need a #45 pilot Mr HP and AZSAND did a dyno on the TM45 vs 46 lectron TM w/ out the acc. pump and the pilot jet needed to be bigger to compensate for the missing pump. Again this bigger pilot is only if your not gona run the pump. maybe some one else can chime in on this.

obviously the rod is needed to make the pump work. as the throttle is applied it squirts fuel in to the motor. you only need the from 0- 1/4 throttle. so it overcomes that big gulp of air when you crank the throttle.

the pilot is a fixed jet you cant turn it except to change it( the air screw on the out side is adjustable, the pilot next to main in the bowl ) you can only change the size. I said bump it up, my bad for being vague on that. I meant up in size
hope this helps
if you have any thing else feel free to ask,
Later
Sam

 

Devil, i wouldnt think thats the pilot jet if u say it idles good and goes good up to 1/4 throttle, sounds more like ur needle and ur air/feil mix screw, i wouldnt play wit ur main jet right now. I learned the hard way for jetting, i started workin on the main jet, then went to the needle, now im doin the pilot, goin backwards really sucked cause once i get the pilot and air/fuel mix screw i'll prob end up changin the needle and main lol

 

sorry boys i just finaly gave up on it and called case performance. there are experienced with the tm45's and are going to fix it for me.
i met the owner (really cool guy he races gncc) and he said he's certin him and his guys can get it straightened out.
there gonna fix the carb, change the oil, flush the cooling system out and add some glycol based (so it dosnt freeze) coolant additive to help keep it cooler aand keep corrosion down to a minimum