I am making an order for a few oem parts that include:
Oil drain plug (mine is rounding a bit)
Flat washers that hold the sprocket nut on
Oil sensor (just in case)

Rear sprocket hub (anybody know the part number for the newer 04/05 one that is lighter than the old ones? I am hoping this dosnt cost an arm and a leg)

I am also going to possibly be attempting a valve job (I think I am going to pick up some feeler gauges tomorrow, and possibly check the valves, and then see if it even needs to be done)

What sizes will I need? assuming it is not off that much, can I get by ordering a few up and a few down (or would that just be a waste because I would have to order 4 of each if they are out of whack?)

The thing is, right now I would rather hand 50 dollars to someone, than take the time to do it myself. My reasoning for not doing it, is because A: the two dealerships around me SUCK, total bunch of hillbillies that I am very afraid to let them touch my quad. B: I do not even trust they will adjust them properly, and would probably end up charging me upwards of 100. C: I have a wonderful yamaha/ suzuki dealership in my town where I know all the mechanics very well, and they have always helped me work on my ds. When my starter clutch-sprag went out, they let me tear it down in their shop, they pulled the flywheel, and re assembled it, and only charged me for 30 mins of labor, and i used THEIR tools/shop!

If these shims are pricey, or not worth purchasing before hand, I think I might have my yamaha shop do the work. If they find it needs to be re-shimmed I guess I can hope one of the two brp shops an hour away will have the shims I need.

The main reason I am not doing this myself is because We are going on our big once-a-year trip out west (st anthonies/little sahara/walden and some places in CO/WY) and I do not want to risk anything going wrong at this point. I also have a large list of things to install/work on with my ds, and between school, work and not having access to my ds when I want to, its hard to get things accomplished.



I am pretty sure they havnt done valves on a ds, and am 99.9% sure they wont have the shims.

 

..anybody?

 

I would say 100 $ is a good price to do it , most shops are @ 65-75 per hr . Its gonna take at least 40 min to get it ready to do the adjustments and then you have to measure the clearences , then do the math to find out what shims you need , then install the corrected shims , then re-check and put it all back together ! 100 is cheap !

 

40 minutes to get it ready to check the clearances bellracing2? i got 10.6 hours on my motor now and me and my kid had the front facia off seat and gas tanks in maybe 5 minutes, 4 minutes for the valve cover 2 minutes to find and allen wrench to put in the right side of the motor to turn it over to tdc and maybe 2 minutes to pull a plug, all my clearances were good just incase anyone was wondering lol, lex-.005, rex-.006. lin-.005, rin-.006 all measurements in thousands of an inch of course lol, the book calls for .004 to .006 clearance, so I am changing my oil today gonna run 4 more quartz of castrol gtx 10w-40 for another 10 hrs then switch to the amsoil I have so my rings are broke in for sure, and when i do my next oil change at 20 hours I am gonna check my valve clearance again just beacuse it is really easy to do and a lot cheaper than burning a valve, did i tell you I have a mild case of obsesssive compulsive disorder? all my tools are lined up facing the right way in my box? all my hose clamps have the ends facing inwards on the radiator hoses and oil and the little mark on the intake tube left from molding the rubber lines up with the mark on my air cleaner and the other end of the intake boot lines up with the center casting mark on my carb, kinda obsesssive huh? I got that way from being in the army for 4 years i was a 67 yankee which is a cobra crewcheif, on a helicopter every nut and bolt has to be torqued and safetywired no fod tool bow inventory when you are done to make sure you didnt leave any tools in the tail boom or in the tranny bay, somethings just carry over into real life, and hard habits are hard to break lol as far as doing the math there is a program that figures it out for you on here if you need it i will do the leg work for you and find the link and post it? it took us 30 minutes to take everything apart and put it back together but this has been my like 10th time doing it too

 

so... to just go and check them, all I need are a set of feeler gauges then? (besides the obvious allen's and wrenches)

I noticed on the site that shows the how-to it shows the TDC bolt that you put in, but his looks more like a threaded shaft, not the same screw that was pointed to (he also put down a part number)

is that like an official TDC bolt, instead of just pulling the screw out of the side?

I guess I can go ahead and check them if I only need the feeler gauges to do so, that way I will know if it needs to be attended to before the trip.

How do you flip the decompression lever? I have looked at the pics, but dont even know what the lever looks like...

 

Dude, I bumped up the thread for the sprocket hub. You will find the part # in there.

Also your stuff is on its way.

Al

 

o ok, thanks much. I had searched for it, but didnt know if the numbers were different for the older/newer hub.