CAN-AM (BRP) Discussions about CAN-AM ATVs.

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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 04:12 PM
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i have an atc 70 and i need some help with it, this forum as produced great things for all us with bombs and everyone here knows so much, i need a little input..

it wont stay running, it will start on the 1st pull but wont idle and stalls after a few seconds if im on the gas..heres the strange part, if i shake it or rock it it will stay running a little longer as long as i am on the gas..

sounds like carb trouble but what and how to fix it, i am carb clueless

 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 04:28 PM
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I would pull the carb, take off the bowl and spray each jet with carb cleaner. Put it back together and see if it runs.

Is any fuel coming out of the carb overflow vent? The fuel needle and seat could be worn.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 05:27 PM
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i will have to find a diagram,

if it floods gas does come out of the tube going on the ground

i cleaned the filter behind the petcock---- full of rust

 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 07:26 PM
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trace the fuel line from the tank to the fuel valve,make sure the fuel is flowing well at that point
( some of the little quads have a vac actuated fuel valve)and than thru the fuel filter( if it's out side the tank). Sounds like there may be an obstruction preventing fuel .from filling the bowl at the rate it needs to to keep the motor running. When you shut it off it slowly refills the bowl and than will staart and idle for a few and than when you call for more fuel and get on the throttle it isn't there. Also clean the carb out throughly as already suggested.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2005 | 10:13 PM
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major,

fuel is flowing to the petcock well, i cleaned the filter to the carb from petcock(rusty)...it wont idle, it will only run if i pump the gas and only for a few seconds..again if i shake it while it is running it will stay on as long as i shake it and gas it....

i am getting the feeling it is the carb..

does the gas tank have a filter in it?
 
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 05:34 AM
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That really sounds like the same problem I had with my 70, same thing too, carb screen filled with rust. I don't think there is a filter in the tank and that isn't much of a filter in the carb.
You need to dissasemble that carb and clean it out, mine was filthy with more rust. I work over a stainless pan as to not lose any little parts or o-rings. Use some carb cleaner with a little plastic straw on it and blast out every hole you can find, just watch your eyes. Take out jets one at a time and squirt the fuild into them so the crud will go backward the way it came. The fuel starts at large openings and works its way through smaller passages. Shake the float and make sure it hasn't leaked and filled partly with gas while you'r'e at it. I bought a couple little fiilters and stuck them inline on the reg and reserve lines. It's actually pretty simple and you can always snap some digital photos to help remember how things should go back together.
I couldn't pass up the 70 I bought for my son, it still had nipples on the tires and was only $300. The rust flakes and spark plug are the only problems it's had. Don't buy the recommended plug, you need to get a hotter one as the standard plug tends to foul. Sorry I don't remember the # but someone at the bike shop should understand. Buy a couple plugs for spare because when they go, it seems nothing will revive them.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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$hit, that is what i figuired,


i have no clue how to do this stuff
 
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 05:50 AM
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Don't panic man, it's really not as complicated as it seems. Take an old egg carton and as you take apart the carb write a description of where the parts or screws came from. Also like I said, take pictures and make drawings. You can also make scratches or marks on parts to put them back together. Look at it scientifically.
As far as money goes, you should be cool as Honda uses really good quality rubber for gaskets and o-rings and you really shouldn't need anything other than a couple filters.
There should be two jets that hang down low into the float bowl, they can't be physically interchanged so you're safe. Unfortunately the lowest part of the bowl is where crud collects and gets sucked up into the jets, causing the symptoms you are having. Take off the carb, and look at the carb body. There is an adjustment screw on the side. Turn it all the way in and count how many turns it take including 1/4 turns. Write that down then unscrew it till it comes out and put it in your egg carton. Flip the carb and take out 4 screws and remove the float bowl. Remove the two jets and then hose out the holes the jets and adjustment screw came out of. Look through the jets, see how tiny the are? very prone to plugging. Blow them out or use a needle until you can see light through them. Put it back together zip/zop and set your adjustment screw all the way in then back it out the # of turns you had written down. 1/4 turn off or so will not be the end of the world. If all else fails, save all the parts and send it to a forum member or take it to a shop.

 
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Old Jun 23, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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i am printng your steps and trying this wkend, thanks so much
 
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Old Jun 24, 2005 | 04:58 AM
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Good luck and keep me posted. Oh and keep the distractions and little helping hands away[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
 
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