another alignment question
#1
Where exactly do you place the straight edge and guage to read caster?
With my new Elkas and my ASR a-arms, I have to have the joints that attach to the frame adjusted almost all the way out to clear at full extension.
I have searched and read the tutorials, I just want to make sure I am measuring from the right location.
With my new Elkas and my ASR a-arms, I have to have the joints that attach to the frame adjusted almost all the way out to clear at full extension.
I have searched and read the tutorials, I just want to make sure I am measuring from the right location.
#2
Rest the straight edge against the side edge of the upper and lower ball joint threads.(make sure the straight edge is touching the same section of the ball joint threads) If the top of the straight edge leans towards the rear of your quad, you have positive caster. Rest the angle finder on the edge of the straight edge. This will tell you the exact caster setting.
This is taken from the LSR tutorial on caster and camber adjustments. This is the same tutorial I used to set up my ASR's a few years ago.
Here is the link. http://www.lsracing.com/installguides.php?step=4&igid=5
This is taken from the LSR tutorial on caster and camber adjustments. This is the same tutorial I used to set up my ASR's a few years ago.
Here is the link. http://www.lsracing.com/installguides.php?step=4&igid=5
#3
I read that link and still could not figure out where to measure from. The bolts for the ball joints are tucked under the upper and lower part of the hub tabs. Is this straight edge supposed to be about 3-4" long? I did manage to get a straight edge on the tabs I was reffering to that the ball joints go into. I got readings of 7 degrees on both sides so I'm in there.
I found my camber to be off 1 degree on the right and off 2 on the left. Neutral toe. So I will have to adjust that, too. I will have to grind the a-arms in the right places for clearance of my shock when fully extended. I am nervous that I am already screwed out too much where the arm meets the frame. What are those ends called? I would feel a little more comfortable if they were 1" longer so they would have more thread in the tube.
I found my camber to be off 1 degree on the right and off 2 on the left. Neutral toe. So I will have to adjust that, too. I will have to grind the a-arms in the right places for clearance of my shock when fully extended. I am nervous that I am already screwed out too much where the arm meets the frame. What are those ends called? I would feel a little more comfortable if they were 1" longer so they would have more thread in the tube.
#4
I don't recall what I set mine at. It's been to many years now. But I do know that I used a peice of angle for my straight edge that was 1/2" X 2" X about 18" long. I set it aginst the uper and lower ball joint connection areas. Between the brake caliper and the spindle where the heim joins thread in. The straight edge was long enough so I could set my angle finder on it up at about fender height. I also just went out and looked and I have about 1/2" to 3/4" of threads showing on the upper A-Arms where they connect to the frame and no threads showing on the lower A-Arm where it connects to the frame. And then at the spindle I have just the oposite. No threads showing on the upper and about 1/2" of thread showing on the lower.
I have the stock suspension though and have never had any clearance issues though.
I will say this though. I can ride through studder bumbs and let go of the bars and feel completly in control. Great A-arms IMHO.
I have the stock suspension though and have never had any clearance issues though.
I will say this though. I can ride through studder bumbs and let go of the bars and feel completly in control. Great A-arms IMHO.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Quadzilla Heritage
Classifieds, Garage Sale & Swap Shop
0
Sep 25, 2015 01:39 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)




