I completed a normal oil change on my 2K DS before this Thanksgiving. As I have always done, I bled the system of air and everything seemed fine, no red light and normal engine noise. The motor is stock.

The DS has always had a slight clicking noise @ idle which has been discussed numerous times on this forum and has been determined to be normal.

During my first ride @ Glamis this past weekend, the engine clicking, @ idle, was significantly louder. The clicking would go away as soon as I increased the throttle but would return @ idle. I also noticed that my red light would flicker on & off at this time but not when riding and on the gas.

I pulled the oil filter and bled the system, again, and checked to make sure the oil level was correct.
The loud clicking @ idle continued and after riding hard the red light would continue to flicker @ idle.

It wouldn't make the loud clicking noise when the quad was cold in the morning but would after it was warmed up.
I don't think it's a valve as it starts right up and runs strong as usual.

I'm thinking it may be the Cam chain and will have to open her up to find out. I have never had the motor open but would appriciate your thoughts and suggestions. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

Thanks for any help.

 

Have you given much thought to pulling the oil pump cover and checking the impeller?

 

the cam chain tensioner is probably dirty. pull it out and clean the whole thing(especially the spring) with carb cleaner. lube it up with oil before re-inserting.and problem should be solved. if not continue post.....

 

Scoundrel - I don't think it's the oil pump impeller as it pumps a lot of oil when bleeding air out of the system.

BombSaint - Can the Cam Chain Tensioner be removed without taking the head off?

 

the cam chain tensioner is behiend the big bolt on the back of the cylinder on the shifter side of the engine. The bolt is 24 mm or a 7/8" works as well, just be careful. the bolt will pop out of the cylinder a it from the tensioner being under tension, and a small amount of oil will leak as well. Make sure the tensioner is not stuck shut, and that it compresses and returns to full length smoothly. hope this helps

 

ditto to what chosenone said. it is a breeze to take out. look on the motor from the left side of the bike and you will see a hex head sticking out of the motor that looks like it does not belong. thats it. i have to clean mine once a year or it will sart ticking horribly at idle because that spring is stuck and not placing tension on the cam chain. like i said before take it out clean it with gas or carb cleaner and once the spring is moving smoothly and freely lube it up with oil and slide it in[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] the noise should be gone. hopefully that is your problem. let us know. i will be looking for a response.

 

The tensioner was froze shut (closed) and would not release (extend).
I soaked it in carb clener for hours with no effect.
I tried evrything I could think of to get it to loosen up with no luck.
A new OEM is on order.
Interestingly, none of the manuals (Owners or Shop) talk about maintenance on this part.

Does anyone know if an aftermarket part is available?

 

Ron Woods Racing carries a Manual Cam Chain tensioner, not hydralic like the factory one. You can also ask THEBOM, he can get you any RWR item,plus PAMI may also offer one too.


If you DS still runs strong you are probably OK, but I did have the Intake Cam jump a tooth as a result of a loose timing chain, when me tensioner stuck closed.





Bigger.

 

Can you just remove the the tensioner in any position or do you have to be at top dead center?

 

You can remove it any were in the timeing with the hydrolic s/p tensioner but you have to take the valve cover off to set the chain tension with the manual.