chain tension (noise)Need help/advice
#1
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Let me tell ya this is driving me nuts.When I'm riding my quad there is a clunking noise coming from the chain. I've set the adjustment on my chain per the specs. Everything is good when I'm on the throttle. When I let off or bog the motor a little. I get this sound .It almost sounds like the chain is hitting the casesaver, or it's slapping the chain guides
I checked the casesaver and my chain is not even close (14 tooth)
I adjusted the chain (loose) very noisey
I adjusted the chain (tight) 7/8" per specs w/rider on bike. Not as much noise but still there.
I reversed the motor mount bolt (It was hitting this a little)
The chain is lubed and I've checked for any stiff links
Could this noise be an internal problem? Tranny ? Timing chain?
The bike shifts and runs good.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
I checked the casesaver and my chain is not even close (14 tooth)
I adjusted the chain (loose) very noisey
I adjusted the chain (tight) 7/8" per specs w/rider on bike. Not as much noise but still there.
I reversed the motor mount bolt (It was hitting this a little)
The chain is lubed and I've checked for any stiff links
Could this noise be an internal problem? Tranny ? Timing chain?
The bike shifts and runs good.
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
#2
#3
#4
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If you have a 2000 model year DS, and still have the ORIGINAL chain roller, its worthless. The older style was made of rubber with a simple bolt going through. The rubber will split and come off entirely leavingt your chain hitting the bolt. Bombardier has an upgrade as well as some aftermarket companies like UPP.
#5
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Joeygo,
This may or may not apply to your situation. I had clearance trouble with a 14 tooth CS. I went to a 15 CS and bumped up to a 43 tooth in the back to achieve basically the same gearing and my problems went away. The bummer about that was the new chain length.
This may or may not apply to your situation. I had clearance trouble with a 14 tooth CS. I went to a 15 CS and bumped up to a 43 tooth in the back to achieve basically the same gearing and my problems went away. The bummer about that was the new chain length.
#7
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DSNUT, I think that you may be right. I pulled everything apart to take a look and it seems that the chain does not have much clearence from the slide on the swingarm. I replaced the 14cs with the stock 16cs. There seems to be a big difference. Now I can see daylight. The only problem will be the gearing w/22" tires. I"ll try it out in a couple of weeks when I go back out to the dunes.
OMR, The chain is the original, but low miles on the bike. If this CS change does not fix the problem then I'll look at replacing the chain.
Thanks for the help
OMR, The chain is the original, but low miles on the bike. If this CS change does not fix the problem then I'll look at replacing the chain.
Thanks for the help
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#8
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Gearing shouldn't be a problem. I'm sure there are gearing experts on this forum. I have always thought 1 CS tooth is worth 3 in the back and to compensate for the jump to 22" tires is about 2 teeth in the back, but not quite a whole CS tooth. I am not an expert though and have no science to back my formula up. If you were satisfied with your gearing before you removed the 14 tooth CS, install a 46 tooth in the rear with your 16 CS (assuming you were running a stock 40 tooth with the 14.
This will do you no good if you run a skid plate or you need the factory chain guard at the bottom of the swingarm. The larger sproket will require its removal. I only ride sand, so that is no big deal to me.
Good Luck.
This will do you no good if you run a skid plate or you need the factory chain guard at the bottom of the swingarm. The larger sproket will require its removal. I only ride sand, so that is no big deal to me.
Good Luck.
#10