I use evans waterless coolant, its the only coolant that i found that would stay in my Twin peaks 800 BB.

http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm


Here is some tech data from the sight listed above, note the boil point and freez point. I know of no other coolants with those kinds of ratings.

"EVANS lifetime, corrosion free, WATERLESS engine coolants have been proven on professional race circuits and private multi million dollar test tracks, exotic engine dynomometers, and in competition with virtually every major sanctioned body of racing including FORMULA 1, NASCAR, NHRA, SCCA, IMSA, IRL, Grand American, NMCA, ARCA, AMA, WERA, American Lemans, SCORE Off Road, World Rally up, and numerous Boat Racing Venues."

"Evans NPG+ Waterless Coolant is the recommended coolant for all gasoline and diesel engines. NPG+ is a stand-alone lifetime coolant that does not freeze, or boil over. NPG+ controls detonation, cavitation, and is non-corrosive. Installing NPG+ requires the radiator, engine block and heater core to be drained completely and then filled 100% with NPG+. NPG+ meets or exceeds both the ASTM D 1384 corrosion test and the ASTM D 3306-94 specifications."

Boils 375°F @ 0 psi
Freezes -40°F
Viscosity 2.3cp @ 212°F
Surface Tension 44dyn/cm

$32.50 per Gallon

 

DuneMe
Pro Rider
Elk Grove, California
>>>>>>>>>

My best friend lives in EG. What do you think of West Coast ATV? I had my DS serviced there and they were pretty cool (other then how long it takes to get parts from BRP) they added a secondary fuel filter for no charge and sealed in my oil sending unit. My buddy had his YFZ piped and jetted there, he seemed happy with their service. Not sure how many quads he actually sells though, I'm sure his shop is what keeps him going, seemed to have a lot of quads back there. I see there is a new Polaris dealer across the street huh?

 

http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm
>>>>>>>>

Never needs to be replaced? How can you beat that?

 

In my opinion cooling system addatives are generally a desperate attempt to "slap duct tape" on other cooling system issues and are most of the time a waste of money. keep in mind you guys who are deleting all anti freeze from your system or are even running lean mixtures, that antifreeze is also anti boil. it raises the boiling temperature of watter and without it water turns to steam at a mere 212 degrees. anything past that temp and your cooling system becomes a train whstle. instead of exotic expensive marvel mystery coolant system addatives I would consider fixing the real problem. make sure your fan works and the radiator isnt plugged full of bugs and weeds.make sure you dont have a big dumb bumper block most of the air flow to the radiator. take your radiator off and power flush it back and forth to remove those pieces of crud and old silicone that are blocking flow. install a larger fan or even a larger aftermarket radiator if needed and then poor anti freeze back in the system so it can work as intended.

 

There is only about an 8 to 10 degress raise in the boiling point of a 50% mix to straight water using Enigine Ice which is a Propylene Glycol based coolant. Using standard Ethylene you get a 15 to 18 degree raise. So if I'm running around 15 degrees cooler with a 1/3 ratio of antifreeze I still have the same head room as at at 50% ratio, just a lower starting point.

Most of the boiling resistance comes from the pressure that builds up in a sealed system. I think a 15 PSI cap raises the boiling point of the coolant by aroun 45 degrees, so even if you are running straight water you are still getting up to 255 or so before reaching the boiling point.

I have thrown up a chart with the ratio to freezing and boiling points in my gallery, if nothing else its just good to know. This chart is at sea level without any pressured added.