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2003traxtermax 06-22-2008 06:09 PM

2003 Traxter Max MPEM Fuse Keeps Blowing
 
I'm having a problem with the MPEM (Multi-Purpose Electronic Module) Fuse Blowing. I recently replaced the battery and replaced the plugs. It started fine and then the next weekend it started blowing the 20 amp fuse. When I turn the key to the ON position the fuse will blow and no indicator lights flash on the dashboard. Any ideas or tips would be greatly appreciated. Just put on new tires and haven't been able to test them out.

edgecase 12-03-2008 12:49 PM

2003 Traxter Max MPEM Fuse Keeps Blowing
 
I am in the process of repairing a Bombardier MPEM for a 2002 Traxter for a local bike shop. I do various kinds of electrical and electronic repairs for this customer, and they contacted me when the repair shop reached a dead-end on the electrical problem, and the cost of a new MPEM was prohibitive.

If you still have the old MPEM, and you can confirm the same symptoms, I may be able to repair the module economically. Send me a private message if you are interested.

The blowing fuse problem is caused by a shorted diode. The customer was "boosting" the Traxter due do a bad battery. It started and ran a short time with the lights flickering (due to the short). The next attempt to start it failed. If the fuse is replaced with the standard size, it blows when the ignition switch (key) is turned on. If the fuse is replaced with a 30 amp (careful here... this was done with an external battery and jumper cables, which likely limit the possibility of dammage due to over current) there is a faint ticking sound. This is the result of an oscillation caused by the key turning on a transistor, switching on power to the circuit with the shorted diode. The short caused the voltage to drop, switching off the transistor, removing the short, which causes the voltage to rise again, and the cycle repeats.

If you have a Traxter, I suggest you don't *ever* try to start it from another vehicle with the engine running. I believe the shorted diode is a result of "boosting", where the running vehicle's alternator overshoots the voltage at the instant you stop cranking the Traxter, frying the MPEM. Jump starting from a nother battery, possibly in a vehicle, should be OK though.

2003traxtermax 12-03-2008 05:14 PM

2003 Traxter Max MPEM Fuse Keeps Blowing"></title><script src=
 
I ended up purchasing a new MPEM Chip. That fixed the problem. A $1300 part. I've never tried to jump start my wheeler from another vehicle at all. It just happened to go out. I'll keep that in mind if it ever happens again. How long does it take you to refurbish the chip?

edgecase 12-04-2008 12:30 PM

2003 Traxter Max MPEM Fuse Keeps Blowing
 
It takes a couple days, since use of solvent is required to remove some of the rubber-like potting compound.

I'd be interested in the old module if you still have it around. Since it's blowing the fuse only when you turn the key ON, it sounds very much like the problem I have been able to repair.

Josiah34 07-21-2009 07:19 AM

MPEM Repair
 
I don't know if this thread is still active, since I am posting seven months after the last post, but I have the exact same problem, and I don't want to have to pay 1300 dollars for a part. Edgecase, could you email me @ josiah.b@live.com if you could repair the part?

badgerman 10-13-2009 08:30 PM

Traxter shorting out
 
Hi, I read your reply, below, to another forum member regarding the recurring short on the Bombardier Traxter. I am having the same problem. I believe I have traced it to the flat black box behind the handle bars, but am not sure if this is the MPEM. When I unplug the box I don't have a short. Someone has told me it could be a celenoid. Is there a celenoid that would cause a direct short like this. Any suggestions? Thanks


Originally Posted by edgecase (Post 2691817)
I am in the process of repairing a Bombardier MPEM for a 2002 Traxter for a local bike shop. I do various kinds of electrical and electronic repairs for this customer, and they contacted me when the repair shop reached a dead-end on the electrical problem, and the cost of a new MPEM was prohibitive.

If you still have the old MPEM, and you can confirm the same symptoms, I may be able to repair the module economically. Send me a private message if you are interested.

The blowing fuse problem is caused by a shorted diode. The customer was "boosting" the Traxter due do a bad battery. It started and ran a short time with the lights flickering (due to the short). The next attempt to start it failed. If the fuse is replaced with the standard size, it blows when the ignition switch (key) is turned on. If the fuse is replaced with a 30 amp (careful here... this was done with an external battery and jumper cables, which likely limit the possibility of dammage due to over current) there is a faint ticking sound. This is the result of an oscillation caused by the key turning on a transistor, switching on power to the circuit with the shorted diode. The short caused the voltage to drop, switching off the transistor, removing the short, which causes the voltage to rise again, and the cycle repeats.

If you have a Traxter, I suggest you don't *ever* try to start it from another vehicle with the engine running. I believe the shorted diode is a result of "boosting", where the running vehicle's alternator overshoots the voltage at the instant you stop cranking the Traxter, frying the MPEM. Jump starting from a nother battery, possibly in a vehicle, should be OK though.


traxterboise 10-15-2010 12:13 PM

MPEM fuse repair question
 
Again, the same problem. I have a 2004 Traxter Max MPEM problem. If this thread is still active, I'm looking to see if anyone can repair my MPEM as well.

Anyone out there have a source for new ones less than the overpriced retail?

badgerman 10-16-2010 09:15 PM

MPEM short
 
My problem was a short in the box of the MPEM from jump starting the 4-wheeler with another 12 volt system such as a car. Do not do this, it shorts the MPEM out. I found the MPEM online at Babbittsonline.com for $967. That was the best price I could find and I searched everywhere for it. Good luck, let me know if you need anything else.

Spanners 11-23-2010 05:10 AM

I;ve killed my MPEM also through jumping.

Does anyone have valid contact details for 'edgecase' for a repair?

Or another option other than new at $1k?

Thanks

austin1959 04-18-2011 03:04 PM

mpem
 
also 20 amp fuse keeps blowing as soon as i change is it my mpem also ?

lerber 04-21-2011 12:50 PM

If you are having a problem with the fuse blowing, and it wont start. And this has started after you have tried to jump start or even just charge the battery I may be able to repair it. It is a problem with the mpem (computer.) Call me and leave message and I will call back. (208) 847-2874 Larry Bush or (801) 674-4680.

IGD 02-08-2012 11:11 AM


Originally Posted by edgecase (Post 2692329)
It takes a couple days, since use of solvent is required to remove some of the rubber-like potting compound.

I'd be interested in the old module if you still have it around. Since it's blowing the fuse only when you turn the key ON, it sounds very much like the problem I have been able to repair.


Please advise contact for "Edgecase"so I can contact re MPEM repair. My email is igduthie@gmail.com. THX

Nick_ATV 07-03-2012 03:14 PM

Solvent type to remove potting compound
 

Originally Posted by edgecase (Post 2692329)
It takes a couple days, since use of solvent is required to remove some of the rubber-like potting compound.

I'd be interested in the old module if you still have it around. Since it's blowing the fuse only when you turn the key ON, it sounds very much like the problem I have been able to repair.

Edgecase, I know this is an old thread but if you get this message and don't mind me asking, what type of solvent did you use to remove the black potting compound? Did you perform local compound removal only in the area where the diode was located or if you sunk the whole PCB in solvent and let it sit for a few days? If you sunk it completely, I'm assuming the solvent was safe to use on the PCB and components...

Thanks in advance,
Nick

XeroT 04-03-2013 07:03 PM

I'll try it... Mpem repair
 
I'd like to try the diode repair. Anyone have any broken ones for sale? The one I have has a chunk burned out of the pcb. Would pay for one that is repairable.

Nick_ATV 04-03-2013 11:34 PM

Well since this thread is not dead, I will share my experience when I repaired my Mpem last summer.

With the Mpem PCB sealed in potting compound, I had to find something to make the compound easier to remove. I took three pieces of compound which I carved out and sunk them in three different solutions: 1- Paint thinner (varsol), 2- Acetone, and 3- Lacquer Thinner.

Results:
1- Paint thinner: Didn't do nothing to the compound;
2- Acetone: Compound got a little softer but not that much and I was scared that the Acetone could damage some of the eletronic components;
3- Lacquer Thinner: Bingo! Compound was swelling and breaking up in chunks! Lacquer thinner is nasty stuff for your skin but it's pretty safe for metal and most plastics.

So first thing I did is used a dremmel to dig a trench about 1/4" wide all around the edge of the plastic casing between the casing and the PCB. 1/4" is about all you have of clearance between the PCB and casing wall. Don't damage your casing cause you'll need it again!

After digging the trench, I filled it with Lacquer thinner and let it sit overnight so the compound in contact would swell. The next day I was able to remove a bit of compound all around the PCB. You'll need to make yourself a special tool such as long thin blade not wider than 1/4" that you can bend 90 degree to an "L" shape so that you can get to the bottom of the casing and rotate in the compound between the casing bottom and the PCB.

It took me a week, every day taking a bit of compound off and adding new lacquer thinner until I was able to pull the PCB out of the casing.

After that, it gets much easier. You will need something like small wood carving tools to delicately carve out the remaining compound around the components but only remove what is needed around the components of interest.

There is really just one component that failed and that is the large Diode "MR2535L". However since I damaged the 470uF capacitor with my blade during the compound removal step, I decided to replace this one and also all of the 1000uF caps while I was at it since I didn't know if the Lacquer thinner could have infiltrated and damaged the caps.

After soldering the new diode and caps on the PCB, I covered the aluminum back plate with electrical tape (just to make sure I don't short any connections on the PCB) but I did put back the screws to secure the semiconductor backside to the plate which is used as a heatsink.

Then I plugged the PCB on the Traxter and tried it and everything was working! Then the last step was to seal back the PCB in the plastic casing and the cheapest solution is to get GE silicone II which is safe for electronic components and solder joint (no acid composition - no corrosion during curing).

The traxter is back on the trails and we even did a waterproof test (not intended!) when the traxter was in the water up to the handlebars and didn't stall and it didn't affect the Mpem which was completely under water!

Here's some photos with comments:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 1 showing the 1/4" clearance (between red lines) between the casing side wall and the PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 2 showing inside of plastic casing after PCB was removed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 3 showing the PCB removed with still some compound on the components and the dead diode circled in red.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 4 showing the PCB with most compound removed. You'll notice the 470uF cap on the right side of the dead diode that has been damaged while removing the compound with my thin blade.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 5 showing zoom of the dead diode. This is a MR2535L.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 6 showing zoom of the 1000uF caps which I decided to change because of the possible damaged by the lacquer thinner.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 7 showing the beat up 470uF cap which I also changed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 8 showing the dead diode (MR2535L) removed from PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 9 showing new caps installed on PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 10 showing new diode installed on PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 11 showing zoom of new diode installed on PCB

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 12 showing PCB with Aluminum back plate reinstalled with spring clips to keep semiconductors (2) touching the plate for heat sink purpose. Note that I covered the backplate with electrical tape to prevent shorting any connection on the back of the PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 13 showing PCB back in casing and filled with Clear GE Silicone II which is safe for electrical components (non corrosive). Note that it took me 2 tubes of silicone to fill the casing and I have sunk the tube in 80 degree celcius water for 10 minutes to ensure the silicone would flow easily everywhere.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 14 showing Mpem ready to go back in the Traxter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 15 showing happy kid on Traxter back from the dead and in the trails we go!

Cheers,
Nicolas

XeroT 04-04-2013 03:29 PM

That looks great.
 
Thanks for the great pictures. They made me happy and sad at the same time. I was hoping to be in the same boat as you but when I got to the diode I found my board also burnt out. Easiest thing for me will be to find an old one with the dead diode and fix it. But I can't find where anyone is selling the broken mpem. Funny part is I see quite a few traxters that are being parted out due to mpem issues. I am not paying a grand for electronic module. Brp should be flogged for this debacle. Ok I'm done venting.

Nick_ATV 04-05-2013 12:53 PM

Used Mpem hard to find
 
I feel your pain...Last summer when I was looking for a new Mpem, it was $1655 in Canada and $1250 in the US. Then I tried finding a used one. I phoned a local guy who had tons of used parts but as soon as I mentioned "Traxter Mpem" he started laughing and told me this was "rare as pope's sh!t" and told me he never has any in stock.

That's when I concluded that I had nothing to lose by trying to fix my own.

I wish you best of luck in finding a used one or one you can fix! If you are looking for dead Traxters to extract the Mpem, you may also want to look at John Deere Buck 500 since I think they use the same Mpem.

Cheers,
Nicolas

XeroT 04-27-2013 10:46 PM

The plunge...
 
I took the plunge and bought a couple of parts quads to salvage mpem's from.. And to my dismay, the 2 year 2000 traxter mpem's will not work with the 02. Apparently these are supposed to work on 98 to 01. Yay... So, anybody looking for a mpem? I have two of these on ebay now. I need just enough money from both of them to buy one 2002 mpem.. Ugh.. Lesson learned.

Baxtersj 12-05-2014 09:57 AM

Nick..do you still have the pictures of the Mpem repair? I can't get them to down load off the web site. Also where did you purchase the diode for the repair?thanks for the time . Baxtersj@msn.com

countrygirl2589 06-22-2015 09:23 PM

MPEM repair
 

Originally Posted by edgecase (Post 2691817)
I am in the process of repairing a Bombardier MPEM for a 2002 Traxter for a local bike shop. I do various kinds of electrical and electronic repairs for this customer, and they contacted me when the repair shop reached a dead-end on the electrical problem, and the cost of a new MPEM was prohibitive.

If you still have the old MPEM, and you can confirm the same symptoms, I may be able to repair the module economically. Send me a private message if you are interested.

The blowing fuse problem is caused by a shorted diode. The customer was "boosting" the Traxter due do a bad battery. It started and ran a short time with the lights flickering (due to the short). The next attempt to start it failed. If the fuse is replaced with the standard size, it blows when the ignition switch (key) is turned on. If the fuse is replaced with a 30 amp (careful here... this was done with an external battery and jumper cables, which likely limit the possibility of dammage due to over current) there is a faint ticking sound. This is the result of an oscillation caused by the key turning on a transistor, switching on power to the circuit with the shorted diode. The short caused the voltage to drop, switching off the transistor, removing the short, which causes the voltage to rise again, and the cycle repeats.

If you have a Traxter, I suggest you don't *ever* try to start it from another vehicle with the engine running. I believe the shorted diode is a result of "boosting", where the running vehicle's alternator overshoots the voltage at the instant you stop cranking the Traxter, frying the MPEM. Jump starting from a nother battery, possibly in a vehicle, should be OK though.

Hello..im new to this site and i seen that you repair mpem for the bombardier traxter. My boyfriend has the same bike and is having the same problems. Hes wanting to know how much u would charge to fix his since u can rebuild em. If u could, please email me at lesbug16@yahoo.com. i would greatly appreciate it.

electromatic 12-22-2015 10:52 AM

MPEM repair
 
We purchased a 2003 -2003 Traxter Max with a blown MPEM. The prior owner said it worked fine until the battery went dead and they jumped it. It never rain again. A new MPEM was $1300. After doing research I found where the power supply components on the MPEM were located. I dissected the components out of the rubber potting with a scalpel and replaced the shorted diodes (There were two).

The Unit worked again. We then re-potted the MPEm with silicone gasket maker and are back in business.

If anyone has a dead MPEM caused by jumping the battery, can probably fix it for less than $200. Merry Christmas

Burl.
770 251 4080.

jag1963 05-16-2016 06:04 PM

jag1963
 
Hello all,im working on a 500 bombardier traxter and having a hell of a time to figure it out,the timming is completly screwed up cus it backfires through the carb and wont try to start.it belongs to a buddy of mine,and i have the unfortunate job to try to fix it.the more i read up on this i think maybe it could be the mpem.it had been running fairly bad up until a few weeks ago but now it wont start at all,all kind of spark but i think the timming is off,as it just backfires through the carb steady,would much appreciate all the help i can get.

Cmpark 11-02-2016 10:20 PM

Mpem repair
 
Are you able to repair these? 20 amp fuse blows when turning on the key.


Originally Posted by edgecase (Post 2691817)
I am in the process of repairing a Bombardier MPEM for a 2002 Traxter for a local bike shop. I do various kinds of electrical and electronic repairs for this customer, and they contacted me when the repair shop reached a dead-end on the electrical problem, and the cost of a new MPEM was prohibitive.

If you still have the old MPEM, and you can confirm the same symptoms, I may be able to repair the module economically. Send me a private message if you are interested.

The blowing fuse problem is caused by a shorted diode. The customer was "boosting" the Traxter due do a bad battery. It started and ran a short time with the lights flickering (due to the short). The next attempt to start it failed. If the fuse is replaced with the standard size, it blows when the ignition switch (key) is turned on. If the fuse is replaced with a 30 amp (careful here... this was done with an external battery and jumper cables, which likely limit the possibility of dammage due to over current) there is a faint ticking sound. This is the result of an oscillation caused by the key turning on a transistor, switching on power to the circuit with the shorted diode. The short caused the voltage to drop, switching off the transistor, removing the short, which causes the voltage to rise again, and the cycle repeats.

If you have a Traxter, I suggest you don't *ever* try to start it from another vehicle with the engine running. I believe the shorted diode is a result of "boosting", where the running vehicle's alternator overshoots the voltage at the instant you stop cranking the Traxter, frying the MPEM. Jump starting from a nother battery, possibly in a vehicle, should be OK though.


VonSchmidt 01-12-2017 01:33 PM

anyone have a pdf repair manual for a Traxter?

electromatic 10-09-2017 10:07 PM

I can fix the Traxter MPEM
 
I cut the cases open and replace the blown diode or diodes (sometime up to three are blown or shorted. My cost to fix them is $200.
I have fixed about 5 this way
finkelstein@charter.net
Burl 770 251 4080

Otas 11-19-2018 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by jag1963 (Post 3325671)
Hello all,im working on a 500 bombardier traxter and having a hell of a time to figure it out,the timming is completly screwed up cus it backfires through the carb and wont try to start.it belongs to a buddy of mine,and i have the unfortunate job to try to fix it.the more i read up on this i think maybe it could be the mpem.it had been running fairly bad up until a few weeks ago but now it wont start at all,all kind of spark but i think the timming is off,as it just backfires through the carb steady,would much appreciate all the help i can get.

question is why did the fuse blow when turned the key? Any diagnostic or troubleshooting steps? I just bought this atv with no spark issue. So thought i buy a good working mpem and turn the key.. and fuse blew and lights on dash went off. it was 30am main fuse. Anyone have pinout diagram

electromatic 11-20-2018 07:53 PM

Generally the MPEM works or it does not. If the 20 A fuse does not blow and the lights come on and engine cranks the MPEM is OK.

I have fixed 6 or 7 of the MPEMs for people. The problem happens after a dead battery and jumping the system. One or more of the power conditioning diodes blow and short.
The only MPEMs that I have been able to fix are the ones that are large square ones with two plug sockets on the face.
I cut them open and test the components and replace the bad diodes then report the electronics. I don't use thinners as that damages the capacitors I know just where to cut and test.
I fix them for $200 and don't charge if they don't work
Burl or Jake 770 251 4080

electromatic 11-20-2018 07:54 PM

Agree with all this advice

Hofmanmi 07-01-2019 01:53 PM

2002 Bombardier MPEM Repair
 
Hi Burl. I reached out to you via email to see if you still conduct these repairs. Thanks, Mike

Originally Posted by electromatic (Post 3375553)
I cut the cases open and replace the blown diode or diodes (sometime up to three are blown or shorted. My cost to fix them is $200.
I have fixed about 5 this way
finkelstein@charter.net
Burl 770 251 4080


jack6195 08-22-2019 09:07 PM

Mpem
 

Originally Posted by electromatic (Post 3407732)
Generally the MPEM works or it does not. If the 20 A fuse does not blow and the lights come on and engine cranks the MPEM is OK.

I have fixed 6 or 7 of the MPEMs for people. The problem happens after a dead battery and jumping the system. One or more of the power conditioning diodes blow and short.
The only MPEMs that I have been able to fix are the ones that are large square ones with two plug sockets on the face.
I cut them open and test the components and replace the bad diodes then report the electronics. I don't use thinners as that damages the capacitors I know just where to cut and test.
I fix them for $200 and don't charge if they don't work
Burl or Jake 770 251 4080


Do you still fix these MPEM’s ?

electromatic 08-22-2019 09:35 PM

MPEM repairs
 
I am still.repairing 2000 to 2005 big 8" square can am bombardier u it's that were damaged from battery jumping.
I have done over a dozen

770 251 4080

Burl Finkelstein
1068 witcher Rd
Newnan Ga 30263

jack6195 08-22-2019 09:56 PM

Mpem
 

Originally Posted by electromatic (Post 3423442)
I am still.repairing 2000 to 2005 big 8" square can am bombardier u it's that were damaged from battery jumping.
I have done over a dozen

770 251 4080

Burl Finkelstein
1068 witcher Rd
Newnan Ga 30263

Ok thank you this is a 2002 , I will contact you tomorrow

Robster1969 04-16-2020 01:44 PM

2004 traxter max
 

Originally Posted by edgecase (Post 2691817)
I am in the process of repairing a Bombardier MPEM for a 2002 Traxter for a local bike shop. I do various kinds of electrical and electronic repairs for this customer, and they contacted me when the repair shop reached a dead-end on the electrical problem, and the cost of a new MPEM was prohibitive.

If you still have the old MPEM, and you can confirm the same symptoms, I may be able to repair the module economically. Send me a private message if you are interested.

The blowing fuse problem is caused by a shorted diode. The customer was "boosting" the Traxter due do a bad battery. It started and ran a short time with the lights flickering (due to the short). The next attempt to start it failed. If the fuse is replaced with the standard size, it blows when the ignition switch (key) is turned on. If the fuse is replaced with a 30 amp (careful here... this was done with an external battery and jumper cables, which likely limit the possibility of dammage due to over current) there is a faint ticking sound. This is the result of an oscillation caused by the key turning on a transistor, switching on power to the circuit with the shorted diode. The short caused the voltage to drop, switching off the transistor, removing the short, which causes the voltage to rise again, and the cycle repeats.

If you have a Traxter, I suggest you don't *ever* try to start it from another vehicle with the engine running. I believe the shorted diode is a result of "boosting", where the running vehicle's alternator overshoots the voltage at the instant you stop cranking the Traxter, frying the MPEM. Jump starting from a nother battery, possibly in a vehicle, should be OK though.


Originally Posted by 2003traxtermax (Post 2602696)
I'm having a problem with the MPEM (Multi-Purpose Electronic Module) Fuse Blowing. I recently replaced the battery and replaced the plugs. It started fine and then the next weekend it started blowing the 20 amp fuse. When I turn the key to the ON position the fuse will blow and no indicator lights flash on the dashboard. Any ideas or tips would be greatly appreciated. Just put on new tires and haven't been able to test them out.

no power to the dash when i turn the key all my fuses are good and replaced still no luck, the dash lights were blinking before she quit, would this still be the mpem

Robster1969 04-16-2020 01:48 PM

2004 traxter max
 
When i turn the key on ,i have no power on dash ,it was blinking lights before it quit,all my fuses are good and i replaced them today ,and they dont blow , would this still be the mpem

electromatic 06-02-2020 05:36 PM

PS I repair them with out using solvent Solvent ruins the capacitors and can damage other components. I disect the potting away. After doing many of them I know how and where to cut

electromatic 06-02-2020 05:37 PM

Glad I could fix it for you

electromatic 12-04-2020 08:47 PM

I fix them for others I have done over 50 since originally posting. I charge $200 flat rate with retrurn shipping in the US.


I dont use a solvent as that causes other component damage. I specifically disect the rubber away by cutting and test the 4 components.. It is not always the one diode that several other have talked about

​​​​​One two or three can be bad. I replace the shorted or open components with new ones and repot the unit in rubber.
Burl 770 251 4080

SecrtAgnt 02-15-2021 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by Nick_ATV (Post 3179188)
Well since this thread is not dead, I will share my experience when I repaired my Mpem last summer.

With the Mpem PCB sealed in potting compound, I had to find something to make the compound easier to remove. I took three pieces of compound which I carved out and sunk them in three different solutions: 1- Paint thinner (varsol), 2- Acetone, and 3- Lacquer Thinner.

Results:
1- Paint thinner: Didn't do nothing to the compound;
2- Acetone: Compound got a little softer but not that much and I was scared that the Acetone could damage some of the eletronic components;
3- Lacquer Thinner: Bingo! Compound was swelling and breaking up in chunks! Lacquer thinner is nasty stuff for your skin but it's pretty safe for metal and most plastics.

So first thing I did is used a dremmel to dig a trench about 1/4" wide all around the edge of the plastic casing between the casing and the PCB. 1/4" is about all you have of clearance between the PCB and casing wall. Don't damage your casing cause you'll need it again!

After digging the trench, I filled it with Lacquer thinner and let it sit overnight so the compound in contact would swell. The next day I was able to remove a bit of compound all around the PCB. You'll need to make yourself a special tool such as long thin blade not wider than 1/4" that you can bend 90 degree to an "L" shape so that you can get to the bottom of the casing and rotate in the compound between the casing bottom and the PCB.

It took me a week, every day taking a bit of compound off and adding new lacquer thinner until I was able to pull the PCB out of the casing.

After that, it gets much easier. You will need something like small wood carving tools to delicately carve out the remaining compound around the components but only remove what is needed around the components of interest.

There is really just one component that failed and that is the large Diode "MR2535L". However since I damaged the 470uF capacitor with my blade during the compound removal step, I decided to replace this one and also all of the 1000uF caps while I was at it since I didn't know if the Lacquer thinner could have infiltrated and damaged the caps.

After soldering the new diode and caps on the PCB, I covered the aluminum back plate with electrical tape (just to make sure I don't short any connections on the PCB) but I did put back the screws to secure the semiconductor backside to the plate which is used as a heatsink.

Then I plugged the PCB on the Traxter and tried it and everything was working! Then the last step was to seal back the PCB in the plastic casing and the cheapest solution is to get GE silicone II which is safe for electronic components and solder joint (no acid composition - no corrosion during curing).

The traxter is back on the trails and we even did a waterproof test (not intended!) when the traxter was in the water up to the handlebars and didn't stall and it didn't affect the Mpem which was completely under water!

Here's some photos with comments:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 1 showing the 1/4" clearance (between red lines) between the casing side wall and the PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 2 showing inside of plastic casing after PCB was removed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 3 showing the PCB removed with still some compound on the components and the dead diode circled in red.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 4 showing the PCB with most compound removed. You'll notice the 470uF cap on the right side of the dead diode that has been damaged while removing the compound with my thin blade.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 5 showing zoom of the dead diode. This is a MR2535L.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 6 showing zoom of the 1000uF caps which I decided to change because of the possible damaged by the lacquer thinner.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 7 showing the beat up 470uF cap which I also changed.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 8 showing the dead diode (MR2535L) removed from PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 9 showing new caps installed on PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 10 showing new diode installed on PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 11 showing zoom of new diode installed on PCB

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 12 showing PCB with Aluminum back plate reinstalled with spring clips to keep semiconductors (2) touching the plate for heat sink purpose. Note that I covered the backplate with electrical tape to prevent shorting any connection on the back of the PCB.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 13 showing PCB back in casing and filled with Clear GE Silicone II which is safe for electrical components (non corrosive). Note that it took me 2 tubes of silicone to fill the casing and I have sunk the tube in 80 degree celcius water for 10 minutes to ensure the silicone would flow easily everywhere.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 14 showing Mpem ready to go back in the Traxter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/nick201...in/photostream

Picture 15 showing happy kid on Traxter back from the dead and in the trails we go!

Cheers,
Nicolas

@Nick_ATV
Is it possible to get these pics re-uploaded somewhere?

I need to do a repair as well, these might be helpful!

electromatic 02-18-2021 08:52 PM

MPEM repair
 
I have repair over 60 of the MPEMs and if you want to try it yourself remember..
If you ruin it you cant get another>

DO NOT try a large fuse
I would not use lacquer thinner to melt the compound. I operate on the sold compound and disect the components out to test.

Good luck. If you need the diodes for a DIY job I will sell them. I advise against it though
I am still fixing them
Burl Finkelstein
finkelstein@charter.net
770 251 4080

Rick Hegel 02-20-2021 06:00 PM

Mpem
 

Originally Posted by badgerman (Post 2854945)
Hi, I read your reply, below, to another forum member regarding the recurring short on the Bombardier Traxter. I am having the same problem. I believe I have traced it to the flat black box behind the handle bars, but am not sure if this is the MPEM. When I unplug the box I don't have a short. Someone has told me it could be a celenoid. Is there a celenoid that would cause a direct short like this. Any suggestions? Thanks

my 01 Traxter XT 500...has kinda the same problem...my mpem fuse blows instantly even without the ignition on....any idea why or what the issue is...


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