Ok guys heres the stats on the bike and my location. The DS has a full Big Gun exhaust system, Woods cdi box, K&N carb mount filter, Dynojet kit and needle, Auto-Meter Tach, 17-40 gears, and I run good fuel. This bike see's top speed alot from roads going to next trails.

I am located in NE Ohio and I was told were a little over 1,000 ft. above sea leval. So based on this information what main jet would you guys recomend for this current set up.

Lets here your ideas guys.
Thanks in advance.

QuickDS

 

Sorry QuickDS but I got the same type question. First I installed Custom X Series 2 pipe only, everything else stock, ran great. Last weekend I installed K&N in the the box with lid on and DynoJet kit Stage 1. Like the instructions said I used 180 main and needle set on second notch for 500' elevation. It ran better with the stock 165 jet/needle and air filter. Talked to Peter at Custom X and he said the 180 main was probably way too large for my elevation. I installed the 165 main that came with the Dyno Kit and it seems better but still seems to bog some when I shift into 3rd. Any pointers on getting this tuned in would be appreciated. Peter said to watch the color of the exhaust at the muffler tip. If its black its rich, white its lean, it should be a light tan color. I don't mind trial and error tuning when I have some kind of idea what I am doing. Should I look at the plugs or the muffler tip or both? I am about ready to go back to the stock jet/needle and filter. I don't remember what notch the stock needle was set on though, anyone know?

 

I gave up on my FMF slip-on. It seemed no matter what I tried it would still crap out on top. The Dynojet needle seemed to always make things worse, with flat spots through the mid-range. I got it running best with stock needle, stock pipe, 170 main jet and K&N. I miss the extra low end torque it had with the FMF, but It just didn't want to play on top. I talked to the Dynojet tech line and FMF. FMF had no jetting information, Dynojet wanted me to try the airbox lid off, then air filter taped up to figure out if I was lean or rich. I went all the way up to a 190. At 165 the plug was white with the FMF.
I tried the different needles with almost every mainjet, then went back to stock. But the K&N needed a little more gas. At 170 it runs great, and it was the only combination that would rev all the way up like it should. I thought I was hitting the rev limiter or something, but it was just the jetting. I may try a little light experimenting with the stock muffler, like a bigger tailpipe on the endcap, or see if it could be opened up a little, then try going up a jet size. I like the stock headpipe and would only consider a slip-on, the FMF was a nice piece of work, fit perfectly, no leaks, but too loud even with the Quiet Core End Cap, just couldn't get it running right. Maybe the new FMF Q (for quiet) coming out in the next couple of weeks would be worth considering. The Custom X sounds great, but, I wonder what jets it's going to take to get it running right.

 

Hitting the rev limiter too soon is exactly what mine feels like, seems like I am having to shift sooner than before. I don't have a tach so not sure what the RPM's are hitting. Not that I want to spend a bunch more money but would a CDI box help this any?

 

Gentlemen, I'm at 4500ft and I'm running a 180 main - you,ve got to be kidding me that a 1000 ft
you are running leaner air than I am! I did notice that with the K&N in the box you have the needle set at the 2nd from the top- if you are running a less constipated exhaust than the stocker I would definately try riching up the midrange circuit by droppint the c-clip to the 3rd
position from top. I would guess a 190- should do the trick on top and try turning out the air fuel screw 1/4- 1/2 a turn. Are you running with the air bow lid on or off?
Also I have found a noticeable improvement with the K&N directly off the carb instead of the box.
Most of the increase is in the bottom and Mid range - did not get hardly any thing over the stocker on top. It has made the bike really easy to wheelie compared to stock which is what I was after any way, good luck!

 

Also,I have found the color of the plugs to be the best indicator so far. A nice tan color around the tip of the ceramic insulator is what you're looking for.
Also go by feel and how smoothly the engine revs-
if the carb is set up correctly you'll be making more power and will be redlining soon than you were befor.