Race cams
#2
I don't think I've sold a set of race cams to anyone without a piston as well. I'm curoius as to why you would want to keep the stock piston. To go with the race cams, you must change the valve springs, and that requires pulling the head. As long as your pulling the head, you might as well upgrade the piston at the same time. If you can't afford a piston at the same time, you should realize that your going to spend an extra $50 [head and base gaskets] to do it later.
#3
#4
I don't think there is clearance for the valves without the cut outs.
I know that Team Pami pistons have a deep enough cut for RWR cams, but I'm not sure if the RWR piston is cut deep enough for the Team Pami cams. Team Pami uses higher lift, so it needs deep cuts. Valve clearance is the only issue for fit, but even if it did fit, I don't think a "race" cam would run well with stock compresion.
I know that Team Pami pistons have a deep enough cut for RWR cams, but I'm not sure if the RWR piston is cut deep enough for the Team Pami cams. Team Pami uses higher lift, so it needs deep cuts. Valve clearance is the only issue for fit, but even if it did fit, I don't think a "race" cam would run well with stock compresion.
#6
Hurycne, sounds like you are thinking about some more mods???
I am with knutz, do the piston and cams while you are in there. I will hopefully be installing all this on the weekend and will let you know how it goes.
I am probably on the conservative side, but later in the year I will be running the 760.
Bat
I am with knutz, do the piston and cams while you are in there. I will hopefully be installing all this on the weekend and will let you know how it goes.
I am probably on the conservative side, but later in the year I will be running the 760.
Bat
#7
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#8
To be honest, I think a sport cam would work best for 300ft, and the race 1 for 500ft. That's probobly not what you wanted to here, but that's what I would expect.
The shorter race would use a cam that works in one RPM range, and keeps the bike in 2nd and 3rd. The longer race could use the other cam and still use the same gears due to it's different RPM range.
The shorter race would use a cam that works in one RPM range, and keeps the bike in 2nd and 3rd. The longer race could use the other cam and still use the same gears due to it's different RPM range.
#10
I'm not sure on that one. In a 900 ft race, your most likely going to have to shift again, into 4th probobly. The thing you have to look at is how much of each gear are you using now in those races.
If you are currently "winding it out" to keep from having to shift into the next gear shortly befor the finish line, then maybe the race #1 is the right cam.
If you can't wind it out that far, and end up shifting into a gear that currently feels to tall[like 4th sometimes seems], then maybe the sport cams are the right ones.
Sport cams will let you "short shift" a little bit, and rely on the torque of the motor. Race cams will require you to run the RPM a little higher, and shift a little later, but at the cost of some low end torque.
The torque may be what you want if your races are up hills, on flats, the Race #1 may work a bit better.
If you are currently "winding it out" to keep from having to shift into the next gear shortly befor the finish line, then maybe the race #1 is the right cam.
If you can't wind it out that far, and end up shifting into a gear that currently feels to tall[like 4th sometimes seems], then maybe the sport cams are the right ones.
Sport cams will let you "short shift" a little bit, and rely on the torque of the motor. Race cams will require you to run the RPM a little higher, and shift a little later, but at the cost of some low end torque.
The torque may be what you want if your races are up hills, on flats, the Race #1 may work a bit better.