Disappearing coolant
#1
This has happened ever since it was new in March '00. I don't get to ride a lot, but even when riding when it is cold, I have to add to the overflow tank regularly. It very rarely gets hot enough to have the fan come on. I'm not sure where it is going.
I saw a thread a long time ago that someone else had this problem. But I can't remember what their problem/solution was. Maybe leaking into the cylinder (no funky smoke or anything)? Anyone....anyone...
I saw a thread a long time ago that someone else had this problem. But I can't remember what their problem/solution was. Maybe leaking into the cylinder (no funky smoke or anything)? Anyone....anyone...
#2
leaking into cylinder,...This is exactly what happened to my 00 DS (when I had IT)....was poorly torqued head.
I noticed about 2 1/2 months after buying it ..the dealer/Bombardier repaired it N/C.
Better get it checkout ..have em pressure test cooling system
I noticed about 2 1/2 months after buying it ..the dealer/Bombardier repaired it N/C.
Better get it checkout ..have em pressure test cooling system
#4
orvsr4me,
If its leaking into the cylinder you would probably see some steam from the tail pipe shortly after cold start. Check your oil for a grey milky color, this will tell you if its goin there. More then likely its leaking to atmosphere, maybe around the head gasket or the water pump weap hole at the bottom of the water pump. check around the radiator, cap and hoses for dirt gathering in one spot, this will indicate a coolant leakage. Its a slow leak that occures when the pressure is high so a good time to find it is when the engine is warming up, just before the thermostat opens. If you don't see anything at this point then take it out and get it hot, let it idle for a few minutes or until the fan comes on. shut off the engine and start looking again, this time for traces of steam or wet spots forming anywhere in the cooling system. Just be careful not to burn yourself... Happy hunting
If its leaking into the cylinder you would probably see some steam from the tail pipe shortly after cold start. Check your oil for a grey milky color, this will tell you if its goin there. More then likely its leaking to atmosphere, maybe around the head gasket or the water pump weap hole at the bottom of the water pump. check around the radiator, cap and hoses for dirt gathering in one spot, this will indicate a coolant leakage. Its a slow leak that occures when the pressure is high so a good time to find it is when the engine is warming up, just before the thermostat opens. If you don't see anything at this point then take it out and get it hot, let it idle for a few minutes or until the fan comes on. shut off the engine and start looking again, this time for traces of steam or wet spots forming anywhere in the cooling system. Just be careful not to burn yourself... Happy hunting
#5
Also check the weep hole below the water pump for water/leaking stains,could be a sign of water pump seal failure.
I have done the coolant pressure test before,manual says test at 13lbs,might be hard to find a head gasket leak at 13lbs.
Mikuni makes a cool low pressure tester for around $60 bucks,and Bombardier sells special radiator cap for the test(just a cap with a 1/4 barbed fitting) $15 bucks I think.
How much water have you added?
Jeff
I have done the coolant pressure test before,manual says test at 13lbs,might be hard to find a head gasket leak at 13lbs.
Mikuni makes a cool low pressure tester for around $60 bucks,and Bombardier sells special radiator cap for the test(just a cap with a 1/4 barbed fitting) $15 bucks I think.
How much water have you added?
Jeff
#7
Thanks everyone for your help!
I have never seen any signs of external leaks. The drain bolt is always clean as is all hoses and clamps.
Jeff - if I had to guesstimate how much 50/50 I add, I would say it drops from the full to add about every 4 hours of riding. I will probably buy the cap and do the testing myself as I trust my abilities more than those of the "mechanics" I always seem to find. I will also check the torque of the head bolts. Also, I change my oil almost too often, but lately I have noticed a slight amount of accumulation on the top of dip stick that is a little light in color. It is not "in" the oil and not much different than the goo that is under the oil caps in my cars.
I have never seen any signs of external leaks. The drain bolt is always clean as is all hoses and clamps.
Jeff - if I had to guesstimate how much 50/50 I add, I would say it drops from the full to add about every 4 hours of riding. I will probably buy the cap and do the testing myself as I trust my abilities more than those of the "mechanics" I always seem to find. I will also check the torque of the head bolts. Also, I change my oil almost too often, but lately I have noticed a slight amount of accumulation on the top of dip stick that is a little light in color. It is not "in" the oil and not much different than the goo that is under the oil caps in my cars.
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#8
the cooling system pressure test is not a bad idea. I bought one from NAPA with a universal radiator tester cap. It never did tell me conclusively that there was a head gasket leak, so chances are you'll run into the same situation with the test. The test is not going to reveal a minor head gasket leak. The symptom I have seen many times is white smoke on startup along with some moisture in the tailpipe - coolant will be drawn into the cylinder when the motor is shut down. If you're making a lot of power, you may even see coolant spray out of the radiator cap and/or overflow bottle at full throttle as the compression/exhasut pressure leaks into the cooling system causing the radiator cap to release the pressure.
The head needs to be torqued and that should solve it assuming you haven't eaten away at the head gasket or overheated and warped the head slightly.
be careful with aluminum heads. don't torque or untorque when the head is warm. don't over torque the 8 mm head bolts as this is unforgiving. the more important torque is on the 4 studs. we really ought to know the head torque/untorque recommended sequence.
I have to re-torque my head periodically.
I had my head re-surfaced since it had 0.003" to 0.004" of warp.
The head needs to be torqued and that should solve it assuming you haven't eaten away at the head gasket or overheated and warped the head slightly.
be careful with aluminum heads. don't torque or untorque when the head is warm. don't over torque the 8 mm head bolts as this is unforgiving. the more important torque is on the 4 studs. we really ought to know the head torque/untorque recommended sequence.
I have to re-torque my head periodically.
I had my head re-surfaced since it had 0.003" to 0.004" of warp.
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