I felt a noticable difference. When I went up with the bigger carb. I have some extra power I just have to get it jetted right to see maximum performance. Im not running the carb mount filter yet, thats still pending. From what I have heard the mikuni uses different jets then the starndard carb. The other guys who know more about this stuff will be the ones you want to ask I am still learning myself.

 

Bom2000,
If you go to Buttfungus' web site (there is a link on his post on this thread)and see what others are running with similar mods. Best place to start.

 

I know that after I removed & cleaned my carburetor this weekend when I spent a couple of hours (more time riding than working) rejetting my DS650 that it started MUCH MUCH easier with the new Dynojet jets & needle. It was probably running lean so it was very necessary. Not to mention that now, I'm constantly hitting the rev limiter in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears on the pretty tight trails I was riding that day. Now I can hear a new CDI box calling out to me. I don't think this sickness will ever end. Having the additional power really is a plus, especially since it was there to begin with just not in use. Those carb screws (all of them! not just the float bowl) were tough as heck to remove! I used the dremel tool making a huge slot for a huge flat bladed screw driver approach. Now those loctited factory screws are resting comfortably in the city landfill.

 

ok back to the oil change. i have an 02 DS650 Baja i know that they did away with the bleed screw for the oil change in 01. but the problem that i had last week when changeing my oil was that it is supposed to take 3.3 quarts and i only got 1 quart out of it i didn't notice this till i was putting oil back into it and it wasn't wanting to take more then a quart. is there a second plug that needs to be pulled when changing the oil?? i drained the oil with the plug on the back of the case and then pulled the filter and changed it. i think i must have done something wrong cause the oil was still pretty dark when i was done. any ideas where to go from here?

 

I only got 1 quart out of it i didn't notice this till i was putting oil back into it and it wasn't wanting to take more then a quart. is there a second plug that needs to be pulled when changing the oil?? i drained the oil with the plug on the back of the case and then pulled the filter and changed it. i think i must have done something wrong cause the oil was still pretty dark when i was done. any ideas where to go from here?Text

It sounds like you did not drain the oil from the oil tank. This is where most of the oil is. You have to remove the oil supply hose on the left side of the engine. This is the hose from the bottom of the oil tank to the engine. Caution, Remove the hose where it enters the engine, not from the bottom of the oil tank (less mess). Have a funnel and catch basin ready. If you started your DS after your last oil change you mixed a small amount of new oil with the old. You should remove the bottom oil drain plug again, drain the engine, than drain the oil tank in order to get all the old oil out.

 

hey thanks. yeah i didn't think to pull the oil line. i would have thought that the plug would have been all i needed to pull. one other question do you ever have problems getting the dipstick back into the holder?? it seems like it doesn't want to slide down the tube that runs to the engine. i did get it back in but it was a pain in the butt, and then it didn't want to come out and when it did come out i notice that a lil piece of the dip stick was broke off. i am hopeig that the oil filter would have caught this but i intend to do another full oil change before i ride again. just to make sure.

 

I have never had any problems with the oil dip stick although, I have the RIS Billet Alum. from ALBA. Sounds like you need a new dip stick and I recommend you get the RIS one as it doesn't bend like the stock.
The hole, inside the tank, is small so you most likely missed it and broke the tip off (I really hate missing the hole and breaking the tip off!). Don't worry, there is a screen inside the oil tank that will prevent it from going anywhere.

 

I use a small drill powered pump and clear tubing to pump the oil out of the tank. Insert the tubing into the tank through the dipstick hole and put the line coming out the other end of the pump in a gallon milk jug. This has been a very clean way of doing the job.

I do have to drain the remaining oil from the tank through the plug but, there has only ever been enough there to fill about 1/2 of a butter tub. (Then I just pour it into the milk jug.)

 

ok so if you do it the way you are talking you don't have to pull the rear plug?? that doesn't make much sence. or maybe i am just not used to haveing to do this. so let me get this straight what you are doing is pumping the oil out of the gear box into the main crank then so you don't have to pull the rear plug to change it that way??
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LMFAO Changing my oil will never be the same now. Thanks Duneme