holly crap, i just read that link that Hightower posted from the glamisdunes site about adjusting the valves...(http://www.glamisdunes.net/valve_adjustment.htm).....dang that looks super complicated? I need to do this check cause im way overdo, anybody that is not a full up mechanic able to do this???
ive got two questions before i rip my bike apart.. please help

1. where do i get the TDC bolt from, (was that supposed to come with the bike?)

2. The link shows the part#'s of the shims, who would i order them from? like parkeryamaha or something..

thanks guys i really appreciate the help.
Jetjock16

 

I know your pain, brother! I suffered insomnia and hysterical fits of madness...like a six year old having to get a shot! Print that link and put the hard copy under your pillow tonight...ya never know....osmosis...really now, it AINT that bad.

I have a coffee can of nuts and bolts from various projects--aftermarket bolt on stuff such as skid plates and handlebar and riser junk...so AFTER you drain your oil and pull the allen bolt (lower left side case--below the clutch cover) match that lil booger up to one three or four inches in length...put the end of it to a grinder for a chamfered end and there ya go! TDC bolt[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] And now when you look into that hole., since you drained the oil so oil isn't dripping on the floor, you can actually see the notches on the crank (there are two/one for TDC and one for BDC)when you rotate the engine by hand. You've pulled a plug, the valve cover is OFF (so you can also see that you're cam lobes are pointing away from each other and the cam-sprocket marks line up and all things are begining to become clearer...with the outer sparkplug pulled I put a screw driver in the hole so while I rotated the crank I knew I was actually TDC instead of BDC.

A couple things I figured out is that a little POS plastic micrometer won't cut it...not when your measuring down to the .ooo

It seemed to me pretty tricky to get a good clearence measurement with such thin feelers and sticky oil on everything...

Exhaust clearance after 70 hrs or so were--left .006" and right .005" I left those alone...like Hightower's, my intakes were tight.

I couldn't figure out how to get my shims out of the bucket without pulling my cams...pulled the t-bone spacer and safety wired my cam-chain to my frame so it wouldn't fall. I couldn't get the forward plastic chain guide out either as the guide suggested. I used a magnet to get the shims out...

I would say that the best help I got after getting as near a measurement as I could was taking my shims to a BMW dealership--they miked them for free and with my clearance measurements hooked me up with the correct shims for about 2bucks a piece.

After I put everything back in place I rotated my engine a few times by hand to make sure nothing was binding...

I got some good out of that link and you will too once you get started...another thing I would suggest before pulling your valve cover is to wash your quad to get rid of any and all loose debris...

Hope I helped in some small way...good luck!

Jim

 

Jetjock16,
Only you know your mechanical limits but if you have to ask I would suggest having it done by a competent mechanic. Its much easier to check the valves then to make the corrections so I suggest you check them. if they are ok then no worries. If not .......
The bolt is something you have to pick up from a hardware store.
You can order the shims from a BMW or a Bombardier dealer. I didn't look at the link but if its the same one that has been around here for a while I beleive the numbers are BMW part numbers.

 

The locking bolt is 8mm. just pull the bolt that plugs the hole, take it to the hardware store, and get one that's fully threaded to about 1-1/2", and sharpen the end a little on a grinder.
The shims can be kinda hard to get outa the buckets - If a magnet won't seperate them use a sewing needle to work in between the shim and the bucket at one of the two apposing access flats (you'll see when you get them out).

Have fun, take your time, triple check everything you do, torque bolts to spec, and above all use loc-tite where loc-tite is called for - taking care to properly clean the surfaces prior to applying.

 

great info guys, one thing i dont understand is does the lenght of the tDC bolt not really matter, and why do you grind it to a sharp end, does it have to poke something in their with that pointy end or what, and since the length doesnt seem to matter im guessing you just get it to the right spot (TDC) and then tighten the TDC bolt to hold it from movining? and id guess the place the TDC bolt contacts is shapped in a fasion that requires a pointy end?
thanks for the help
Jetjock16

 

There is actually a hole in the crank that the bolt will go into, and grinding the point will help guide it in easier but is not an absolute necesity. You kinda move the crank back and forth with an allen key through the hole in the stator cover after you line up the cam marks at TDC of COMPRESSION stroke to know you're close, and find the hole with the locking bolt on the other side. Once you get into the hole you're good. No need to go very deep into it - just a little is all. i think the bolt needs to be about 40 or 50mm long.

you can check the valve adjustment without locking the crank - just align the marks - but removing the cams without locking it can create a hassle during re-assembly with you wondering if the crank moved at all to screw up timing.

 

thanks Hightower, you totally cleared that up for me.
Man, ive got to work the next two weekends in a row so ill have no time to work on my DS, then ill be getting the A-arms, (all that adjusting), and TCS shocks, and needing to check the valves..... boy oh boy. Its going to take a weekend to get all that stuff done......... THis means i wont be out on the dunes with my new stuff for like a month!!!!!!!!! that hurts, real bad...........
Jetjock16

 

I have a picture of the groove send me an e-mail if you want it. (mjbeaty@hotmail.com)

Try to become friends with someone that has done this stuff before. I have had a great time with my buddies working on the quads and learning about them from their experience.

Also, get phone numbers from others on the forum. You can always call one of us if you get stuck or are just unsure of something. Send me an e-mail and I'll get you my number.

Sears has the feeler gauges (get the ones with a bend to them - easier to get in there.)

 

Hightower is right. You don't even need the locking bolt to check the clearances. The only time you will need it is when you are going to adjust the valves.