Stupid carburetor. The screws on the bottom of the bowl (4) are put on with JB Coldweld.
Now I have 4 stripped screws. Why you ask? Because if you touch those brass screws with anything more than a gentle caress they die. I was trying to put in a new main jet and everything went **** up. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

I used a small pair of needle nose vice grips to get the screws loose, and then replaced them with stainless allen head screws. I dont remember the sizes, but someone will come right behind me with that info. If not do a search on carb screws or something like that and you will find what you are looking for.

Bat

 

Bat's right vise-grips are the answer. The screw sizes are (3) 4mm x 10mm and (1) 4mm x 12mm. The best bet at this point is to remove the carb, gently tap on the screw heads and then grab them with the vise-grips and back them out. If you can't find stainless screws just use standard steel screws with a dab of anti-sieze on the threads and your good to go.

 

If you still can't get them, I usually take a hacksaw and cut a slot in the middle of the head so I can stick a good size flathead screwdriver in. I've done that many times and it doesn't take long because brass is very soft. Just make sure that the screwdriver is as deep in the groove as possible. Then when you get new screws look for the regular slotted or allen head because I hate phillips style, THEY SUCK.

 

Hey boys I got em off! I went to sears today and bought some needle nose vice grips with my carb in hand. I broke one loose right in the store. Thank God for needle nose vice grips!!! Hey KenDS how do you like your trinity pipe? That is the reason I am rejetting my pig. I have a brand new trinity sitting in my garage right now just waiting to be molested. Well thanks for your help everyone. you wouldn't think a 2 month old bike would have screws that freakin tight. I guess the brass and aluminum must lock up or chemically seize together... I don't know.

 

Take a picture of your new Trinity pipe before you start it! It will never be chrome looking again. At first is will turn gold, then blue, then black..from header to silencer. Oh yea, get ready for some NOISE[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] These pipes are loud inside your helmet. Don't forget the sealer in the mid section joint. I made some brackets that hose clamp to the pipe in about the same spot as stock so I could remount the orange heat shield, this after I burned a hole in my new Fox riding pants. Good luck, these pipes do work well with correct jetting, K&N Filter no lid.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

BigPink,
I like the Trinity but it is loud. If you are going from a stock exhaust to the Trinity you will be impressed! It does leak a little and it will change color, but then they all do. Have fun[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

I just removed those screws from my second DS650 this weekend. My first DS the project took me at least an hour. The second it took about five minutes flat. I got a drill bit out, drilled the head of the screw till it fell off, repeated twice (the screw that was holding on the small bracket actually came off with a regular driver) then easily lifted the bowl away, used my fingers to unscrew the threaded part of the screw and I was done with the chore. I HIGHLY suggest drilling them out. If you use the correct sized drill bit you don't have to worry about anything. I haven't got a single mark on my bowl from the drill & I covered up all of the openings prior to drilling so no metal bits would get inside.

 

Just wait until you try a Dynojet kit and you have to remove the screwws on the top to replace the needle. Same story -- PAIN IN THE A$$. The needle nose visegrips are the key.

 

I removed the screws on top of both carbs at the same time when I did the bowls, I also cleaned out the carb while I was at it. If you're going to take it apart you need to replace all of the screws as well. On the bowl I used allen head stainless screws on the top I used philips stainless screws. I even changed the screws that hold the plate that covers the throttle mechanism. The screws on top of both carbs weren't too bad though - both carbs went the same way: I got one of the screws off with a regular driver and the other I just twisted the cover a small amount to move the screw ever so slightly then it came out with a driver. If the top ones are stubborn (I'm sure they are on many other carbs) they can be drilled out as well, just luse a larger drill bit.