jeez. which is which?
Jun 1, 2007 | 09:44 PM
#2
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jeez. which is which?
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: pimpsmurf
I see the one big screw with the spring. That is the fuel mixture right? Don't see the other one.
-JNY</end quote></div>
The one on the right side of the carb? That is the idle adjustment screw. The mixture screw is on the front of the carb, facing the engine pointing down. Unless you have a "special" flexable screw driver, the only way to adjust it is by taking the carb off the intake.
So am I to assume you got your quad?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
I see the one big screw with the spring. That is the fuel mixture right? Don't see the other one.
-JNY</end quote></div>
The one on the right side of the carb? That is the idle adjustment screw. The mixture screw is on the front of the carb, facing the engine pointing down. Unless you have a "special" flexable screw driver, the only way to adjust it is by taking the carb off the intake.
So am I to assume you got your quad?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Jun 2, 2007 | 02:07 AM
#3
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jeez. which is which?
Hells yeah! I'm so freaking excited. I just got home from putting them together. I've been sleeping little and heading out early in the morning to get stuff done so I could get them together tonight. Everything was pretty straight forward (until the neighbor kid decided to test the brakes before they were mounted. What a goober. Anyway, We got them together for the most part. I had three problems.
First: Do *NOT* use a new grease gun on the jetmoto grease zirks. it broke off inside the grease gun when I tried to pull it off the zirk. I think I already have this size grease zirk on my work truck, and I was too tired to check tonight.
Second: One of the brake pads fell out of the caliper. It was the side closest to the inside of the quad. I slid it back into the caliper and it sort of fell in place. Is this how this piece goes in? Is there nothing holding it in? I've not done work with real brakes like this before. *blush*
Third: The batteries are mediocre to poor. They hold very little charge, and even after charging them up, and riding with the headlights off, the battery wouldn't turn the motor over. This is no big deal. I can get one at an electronics place I used to work with.
Overall, I was impressed with the Jetmoto. I got my handlebars installed thanks to a car junkie that lives next to my parents. We got everything hooked up more or less. I did the slime on my quad, but I'm going to finish Dad's quad tomorrow. I'm exhausted. The Neighbor kid says a couple of the welds are pretty superficial looking, and when we changed out the handlebars, the entire inside was rusted looking. They are suppose to be alluminum, but it was straight rusted looking. Also the inside of the gas tank had a little rust on it. I cleaned what I could and I guess I'll just keep an eye on the fuel filter for clogage.
I only got to ride mine for about 5 minute today. I sort of took it around the block. Reverse is nearly imposible without a sprocket change, and jets. It's just way too high and too easy to stall out. With a totally stock setup, it's kinda tough to clutch first gear. It definately starts like a really heavy street bike, but once you get rolling, the rpms can come pretty quick. I tried not to goose it, but you can tell this thing does have some power. It sounds freaking awsome, better than I expected (and I expected a lot!)
I should have the jets and sprockets tomorrow, so I'm going to end up taking the carb off anyway. Can someone explain to me where the needle is that I need to move the C clip down a notch? Is it on the carb, or on the handlebars? I'm confused....
Too tired to check for spelling, I'm going to pass out.
-JNY
First: Do *NOT* use a new grease gun on the jetmoto grease zirks. it broke off inside the grease gun when I tried to pull it off the zirk. I think I already have this size grease zirk on my work truck, and I was too tired to check tonight.
Second: One of the brake pads fell out of the caliper. It was the side closest to the inside of the quad. I slid it back into the caliper and it sort of fell in place. Is this how this piece goes in? Is there nothing holding it in? I've not done work with real brakes like this before. *blush*
Third: The batteries are mediocre to poor. They hold very little charge, and even after charging them up, and riding with the headlights off, the battery wouldn't turn the motor over. This is no big deal. I can get one at an electronics place I used to work with.
Overall, I was impressed with the Jetmoto. I got my handlebars installed thanks to a car junkie that lives next to my parents. We got everything hooked up more or less. I did the slime on my quad, but I'm going to finish Dad's quad tomorrow. I'm exhausted. The Neighbor kid says a couple of the welds are pretty superficial looking, and when we changed out the handlebars, the entire inside was rusted looking. They are suppose to be alluminum, but it was straight rusted looking. Also the inside of the gas tank had a little rust on it. I cleaned what I could and I guess I'll just keep an eye on the fuel filter for clogage.
I only got to ride mine for about 5 minute today. I sort of took it around the block. Reverse is nearly imposible without a sprocket change, and jets. It's just way too high and too easy to stall out. With a totally stock setup, it's kinda tough to clutch first gear. It definately starts like a really heavy street bike, but once you get rolling, the rpms can come pretty quick. I tried not to goose it, but you can tell this thing does have some power. It sounds freaking awsome, better than I expected (and I expected a lot!)
I should have the jets and sprockets tomorrow, so I'm going to end up taking the carb off anyway. Can someone explain to me where the needle is that I need to move the C clip down a notch? Is it on the carb, or on the handlebars? I'm confused....
Too tired to check for spelling, I'm going to pass out.
-JNY
Jun 2, 2007 | 02:44 AM
#4
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jeez. which is which?
Congrats!
I think the replacement/accessory handlebars are aluminum.
As far as the battery is concerned, I've really had no problems, other than it went down quick starting it over and over when it had the stock sprocket. Stock setup is WAY TOO high, and my son would keep stalling it, and having to restart it. Since we installed the 14 tooth sprocket we've had no problems with it staying charged.
I also think we might have warped something in the clutch having to slip it the way we HAD to to get it rolling. It grabs alittle, but nothing I'm really concerned about. But the first thing I would do is replace the drive sprocket with the 14 tooth one.
The needle is inside the carb slide. Look where the throttle cable is attached to the top of the carb. You can unscrew the top, and pull the carb slide, throttle return spring, needle, and a v shaped needle retaining clip out as an assembly. BTW, it's much eaiser if you remove the carb from the intake. Compress the spring, and remove the throttle cable from the slot in the slide. The "v" shaped retainer holding the needle down in the slide, grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers, and remove it. Then the needle will come out of the slide, and will have an "e" clip in one of several grooves. I read here they are now recommending using the bottom groove towards the pointed end, which will cause the needle to be lifted up sooner when you open the throttle. Then just put back the needle, retainer, and reinsert the cable into the slot, and install the slide.
FYI, there is a groove running down the slide, it MUST line up with a small stud sticking out in the lower part of the carb where the slide rides up and down in. ALWAYS try the throttle BEFORE you start it after removing the slide. If you didn't alighn the groove in the slide and small stud, and the slide is not all the way down, the throttle will be WIDE OPEN when you start it. Good way to blow up a motor, or get hurt. BE CAREFUL!!!
Hope all this helps some, good luck!
I think the replacement/accessory handlebars are aluminum.
As far as the battery is concerned, I've really had no problems, other than it went down quick starting it over and over when it had the stock sprocket. Stock setup is WAY TOO high, and my son would keep stalling it, and having to restart it. Since we installed the 14 tooth sprocket we've had no problems with it staying charged.
I also think we might have warped something in the clutch having to slip it the way we HAD to to get it rolling. It grabs alittle, but nothing I'm really concerned about. But the first thing I would do is replace the drive sprocket with the 14 tooth one.
The needle is inside the carb slide. Look where the throttle cable is attached to the top of the carb. You can unscrew the top, and pull the carb slide, throttle return spring, needle, and a v shaped needle retaining clip out as an assembly. BTW, it's much eaiser if you remove the carb from the intake. Compress the spring, and remove the throttle cable from the slot in the slide. The "v" shaped retainer holding the needle down in the slide, grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers, and remove it. Then the needle will come out of the slide, and will have an "e" clip in one of several grooves. I read here they are now recommending using the bottom groove towards the pointed end, which will cause the needle to be lifted up sooner when you open the throttle. Then just put back the needle, retainer, and reinsert the cable into the slot, and install the slide.
FYI, there is a groove running down the slide, it MUST line up with a small stud sticking out in the lower part of the carb where the slide rides up and down in. ALWAYS try the throttle BEFORE you start it after removing the slide. If you didn't alighn the groove in the slide and small stud, and the slide is not all the way down, the throttle will be WIDE OPEN when you start it. Good way to blow up a motor, or get hurt. BE CAREFUL!!!
Hope all this helps some, good luck!
Jun 2, 2007 | 03:03 PM
#5
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jeez. which is which?
I got the jets and 14 tooth sprockets in today! Thanks John!!! =)
HOT DOG. I really love this thing. Very sweet!
I'm going to take the carb off and do the jets, needle, and sprocket today. Thanks for the info! Thats going to make it much easier to figure out.
Back to work,
-JNY
HOT DOG. I really love this thing. Very sweet!
I'm going to take the carb off and do the jets, needle, and sprocket today. Thanks for the info! Thats going to make it much easier to figure out.
Back to work,
-JNY
Jun 2, 2007 | 05:05 PM
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jeez. which is which?
HELP! =)
We are taking off the rear plastic to get to the carb without disconnecting everything (we hope) so we can do the jets and adjust the clip on that needle valve.
We tried to put on the 14 tooth front sprocket and the chain was pushed all the way against the frame, so we removed a link (which I thought I read was needed) and now the chain is too short! What should I do now? We are pretty lost on this part.
-JNY
We are taking off the rear plastic to get to the carb without disconnecting everything (we hope) so we can do the jets and adjust the clip on that needle valve.
We tried to put on the 14 tooth front sprocket and the chain was pushed all the way against the frame, so we removed a link (which I thought I read was needed) and now the chain is too short! What should I do now? We are pretty lost on this part.
-JNY
Jun 2, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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jeez. which is which?
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: pimpsmurf
HELP! =)
We are taking off the rear plastic to get to the carb without disconnecting everything (we hope) so we can do the jets and adjust the clip on that needle valve.
We tried to put on the 14 tooth front sprocket and the chain was pushed all the way against the frame, so we removed a link (which I thought I read was needed) and now the chain is too short! What should I do now? We are pretty lost on this part.
-JNY</end quote></div>
Whoa man you don't HAVE to remove the plastic to get the carb off. You need an 8, and a 10 mm wrench to take it off the intake. As far as changing the jets, flip the carb over and remove the 3 screws holding the bowl on, and remove the bowl. Just be careful with the float. Changing the jets is a 5-10 minute job.
I had to remove the bolt and nut that is in the axle bearing housing, just below the grease zerk. You can then rotate the housing farther to fit the chain on the sprockets. After I got the chain on, I could tighten it up just a little more to where I could reinstall the bolt without the nut. I have NO idea what the bolt is for, unless it is to allow you to pump grease into the housing, and it is a place for excess to come out. I've considered replacing it with a plug. On mine the chain was alittle tight after doing that, not excessivly tight, but it stretched quickly allowing me to then put the nut back on the bolt. Not a very good chain to begin with.
HELP! =)
We are taking off the rear plastic to get to the carb without disconnecting everything (we hope) so we can do the jets and adjust the clip on that needle valve.
We tried to put on the 14 tooth front sprocket and the chain was pushed all the way against the frame, so we removed a link (which I thought I read was needed) and now the chain is too short! What should I do now? We are pretty lost on this part.
-JNY</end quote></div>
Whoa man you don't HAVE to remove the plastic to get the carb off. You need an 8, and a 10 mm wrench to take it off the intake. As far as changing the jets, flip the carb over and remove the 3 screws holding the bowl on, and remove the bowl. Just be careful with the float. Changing the jets is a 5-10 minute job.
I had to remove the bolt and nut that is in the axle bearing housing, just below the grease zerk. You can then rotate the housing farther to fit the chain on the sprockets. After I got the chain on, I could tighten it up just a little more to where I could reinstall the bolt without the nut. I have NO idea what the bolt is for, unless it is to allow you to pump grease into the housing, and it is a place for excess to come out. I've considered replacing it with a plug. On mine the chain was alittle tight after doing that, not excessivly tight, but it stretched quickly allowing me to then put the nut back on the bolt. Not a very good chain to begin with.
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Jun 2, 2007 | 07:21 PM
#8
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jeez. which is which?
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>I had to remove the bolt and nut that is in the axle bearing housing, just below the grease zerk. You can then rotate the housing farther to fit the chain on the sprockets. After I got the chain on, I could tighten it up just a little more to where I could reinstall the bolt without the nut. I have NO idea what the bolt is for, unless it is to allow you to pump grease into the housing, and it is a place for excess to come out. I've considered replacing it with a plug. On mine the chain was alittle tight after doing that, not excessivly tight, but it stretched quickly allowing me to then put the nut back on the bolt. Not a very good chain to begin with.
</end quote></div>
You did this after removing a link from the chain, correct? I'm confused again. haha
So with the link removed, then you put the chain on the sprockets and moved the axle back to the rear to tighten it up. I think I got ya.
-JNY
</end quote></div>
You did this after removing a link from the chain, correct? I'm confused again. haha
So with the link removed, then you put the chain on the sprockets and moved the axle back to the rear to tighten it up. I think I got ya.
-JNY
Jun 2, 2007 | 09:30 PM
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jeez. which is which?
The chain adjustment is made by the rear axle bearing housing. It is the round aluminum piece in the center of the axle. It is really an eccentric, and as it rotates it either tensions, or loosens the chain. Loosen the 2 long bolts on each side of the rear/center of the swingarm, and the 1 long bolt that tightens the rear brake caliper support. There are threaded holes in the bearing housing behind the sprocket hub. If you have the right bolt, screw it in thru one of the holes in the sprocket, or simply insert a short screwdriver/something to hold the sprocket from turning. Push the bike either forward, or backward to tension the chain, and retighten the 3 bolts. Tighten the chain WITHOUT the tensioner arm/roller against the chain.
Yes, when I bought the new RK chain, it was either too long, or too short, no happy medium. By removing the bolt/nut/plug thingy I could rotate the bearing housing enough to get the chain on the sprockets, and put in the master link.
Man I wish I was there to help you out, I know how maddening it can be when all you want to do now is RIDE!
Yes, when I bought the new RK chain, it was either too long, or too short, no happy medium. By removing the bolt/nut/plug thingy I could rotate the bearing housing enough to get the chain on the sprockets, and put in the master link.
Man I wish I was there to help you out, I know how maddening it can be when all you want to do now is RIDE!
Jun 3, 2007 | 09:45 AM
#10
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jeez. which is which?
Once you posted that we needed to loosen the 3rd nut on the rear caliper mount, we figured it out! HAHA
We got the needle adjusted, the jets in, the sprocket on, link removed, and chain remounted on both last night and were riding in the rain to spite Mother Nature. =)
Today, I'm going to try to find the right size grease zirk. I'm afraid it's a M4 because the M6s I saw (without having the stock one with me) looked too big. The 14 tooth sprocket is PERFECT! The thing really hauled *** last night and we weren't even getting close to full throttle. I'm going to change the oil again today and open her up a little more.
The only problem other than the zirks was my dad's neutral and reverse lights light up backwards. (N Light means Reverse, etc) so we are going to swap the pins. My Handlebars are too low to mount the black light housing, so I plan to relocate the lights to the front body somewhere. Probably underneath the ignition swtch. I'm very happy with the performance as of now. I need to go over the bolts again today and make sure everything is cool.
The only gripe I really have right now is that when you mount the stock rims up front, they do not sit down on the hub tightly. There is slack until you bolt it down, and once it's bolted down it isn't balanced well. On asphalt, you can see it wobble at 30-45mph. Kinda unsettling. Other than that, I am very impressed with the Jetmoto so far. It's actually bigger than I thought it would be (especially after seeing the crates being unloaded) and whatnot.
It seems they designed the springs to be at full compression even though the shocks aren't. Maybe this was to prevent bottoming out or something. I really enjoy riding them, and the handlebars make a HUGE difference in steering. Now it's time to get that chain on order.
Thanks for all the help yesterday!! Without you we wouldn't have been riding!
-JNY
We got the needle adjusted, the jets in, the sprocket on, link removed, and chain remounted on both last night and were riding in the rain to spite Mother Nature. =)
Today, I'm going to try to find the right size grease zirk. I'm afraid it's a M4 because the M6s I saw (without having the stock one with me) looked too big. The 14 tooth sprocket is PERFECT! The thing really hauled *** last night and we weren't even getting close to full throttle. I'm going to change the oil again today and open her up a little more.
The only problem other than the zirks was my dad's neutral and reverse lights light up backwards. (N Light means Reverse, etc) so we are going to swap the pins. My Handlebars are too low to mount the black light housing, so I plan to relocate the lights to the front body somewhere. Probably underneath the ignition swtch. I'm very happy with the performance as of now. I need to go over the bolts again today and make sure everything is cool.
The only gripe I really have right now is that when you mount the stock rims up front, they do not sit down on the hub tightly. There is slack until you bolt it down, and once it's bolted down it isn't balanced well. On asphalt, you can see it wobble at 30-45mph. Kinda unsettling. Other than that, I am very impressed with the Jetmoto so far. It's actually bigger than I thought it would be (especially after seeing the crates being unloaded) and whatnot.
It seems they designed the springs to be at full compression even though the shocks aren't. Maybe this was to prevent bottoming out or something. I really enjoy riding them, and the handlebars make a HUGE difference in steering. Now it's time to get that chain on order.
Thanks for all the help yesterday!! Without you we wouldn't have been riding!
-JNY
