weight what speedometer??????????....you mean the thing with the nutral and reverse lights?????????

 

He is talking about his speedometer on his arctic cat. He is assuming we also have one, but you get the idea. The best place to run a snorkle is right in front of the handlebars. I can't decide if I want to do a snorkle or not.

1) does my oil overflow need to be snorkled?
2) Other than intake and exhaust, are there any other things on the Jetmoto that will need to be kept dry?
3) I do plan on striping the body off and insulating all the wires and using connector coating to prevent shorts. I already have a big load of dielectric grease in my plug.
4) Is there anything at all we can do about the spring? If I have to I'm going to replace the rear shock. I really need a better spring there. It's too soft (far too soft) and with the preload set from the factory the spring bottoms out before the shock. I'm very pleased with the front shocks, but the rear is just dumb.

-JNY

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: pimpsmurf

He is talking about his speedometer on his arctic cat. He is assuming we also have one, but you get the idea. The best place to run a snorkle is right in front of the handlebars. I can't decide if I want to do a snorkle or not.



1) does my oil overflow need to be snorkled?

2) Other than intake and exhaust, are there any other things on the Jetmoto that will need to be kept dry?

3) I do plan on striping the body off and insulating all the wires and using connector coating to prevent shorts. I already have a big load of dielectric grease in my plug.

4) Is there anything at all we can do about the spring? If I have to I'm going to replace the rear shock. I really need a better spring there. It's too soft (far too soft) and with the preload set from the factory the spring bottoms out before the shock. I'm very pleased with the front shocks, but the rear is just dumb.



-JNY</end quote></div>

If you have an air vent for the transmission it would be a good idea to snorkle that too.
Check with HighLifter they have some springs, add about 100lbs stiffness and add about 1 to 2" clearance. If they don't list your bike on the web call them on the phone with some measurements of spring length etc and they probably can match you up with a spring.
http://www.atvoutfitters.net/lift_springs.htm

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: jetmotoracer

weight what speedometer??????????....you mean the thing with the nutral and reverse lights?????????</end quote></div>

I think you know what I mean....
Everyone likes a 'little' but no one likes a 'wise' one...

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: buckaroo50
I think you know what I mean....

Everyone likes a 'little' but no one likes a 'wise' one...</end quote></div>

I don't think he was being a smartass, he is like 14 and probably got confused because we talk about the Jetmoto Sport 250 like 90% of the time.

-JNY

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: pimpsmurf

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: buckaroo50

I think you know what I mean....



Everyone likes a 'little' but no one likes a 'wise' one...</end quote></div>



I don't think he was being a smartass, he is like 14 and probably got confused because we talk about the Jetmoto Sport 250 like 90% of the time.



-JNY</end quote></div>

Sorry, but I thought that everyone knew where a speedometer is or would be located.

 

It's not that, he just got his hopes up that maybe there was one on the jetmoto that he didn't know about. lmao

He is harmless, just really young.

-JNY

 

yea im 12 years old i got confused... i didnt notice you where talking about the artice cat.. so i thought you where talking about a diffrent year or something....so i was asking if you got mixed up or somethin

 

ALRIGHTY THEN!

I found a radiator hose that will work well. I'm going to attach the radiator hose onto the carb, and flex it down and out the bottom in front of the battery and it's the perfect length to reach back to the bottom of the rear fender. I'm going to put 2 90 degree turns of pvc there, and that will aim it down the face of the rear fender (will use foam pipe insulation or rubberized undercoating (for cars) to keep it from rattling. Then a 45 degree bend so it will aim back up and over the front fender. I'll drill a couple holes in the front and rear fenders to zip-tie the pipes down and put the 1-3/4" K&N shrouded filter on a 1-1/2 male threaded connector on the pvp. This will allow a perfect setup for a snorkle and with the rubberized coating, it will look rad to boot! =)

We are also planning a rack that will attack to the stock front bumper mounts. One would use longer bolts in the top to allow a piece of 1" square tube to go between the bolts and the bumper mount, then even longer bolts in the lower mounts to allow for the same 1" square tube AND spacers to make the width the same as the upper mount. Does that make any sence? lol.

Then the two tubes simply need to be welded or bent to end up at flat compared to the ground. Then you have an excellent surface to mount any light weight rack one can find. I'm going junk yard hunting tomorrow afternoon to try and find a rack that is suitable. Maybe they have some old utility ATVs that will work. =)

I just thought about this... If I end up doing an air box on the front rack with the air filter inside and a snorkle going out the top, I could mount an intercooler on the two bars that go up to the rack. That way the airflow would go in the top snorkle, down and through the oversized K&N filter and out the side, down into the intercooler and then routed back through the pvc/radiator hose to the carb. Man that would look sick (although any performance increase from an intercooler would certainly be eaten by the resistance of the hose bends. =)

-JNY

 

Hot dog!!! =)

It's too late to crank it up and see what happens, but the snorkle is done!!! =)

Plus I did it without cutting any plastic on the body or making it permanent. with 1 screw it can be removed so I strap it to by buddies rack (or mine when it's built) and put it on if I'm going to get in some puddles. =)

I ended up going with 1-1/4" pvc. Most people use 1-1/2" or 2" pvc, but it would be restricted by 1-1/4 at 2 places anyway so I just decided to see what happens. Worst that could happen is I run rich on the top and drop to a lower jet, which I have ready.

I used the 1-3/4" radiator hose from the carb back to the underside of the rear fender. This routes down from the carb and underneath the battery. It goes over and beside the rear shock, so that is unaffected. Then it bends up and attaches to a 1-1/4 male threaded pvc connector. I siliconed this because it wasn't a very snug fit. I should have gone with 1-1/2, and I might redo it (it's only about $15 worth of PVC all together.) Then there is a 1" gap between it and a 90 degree piece, and a 3/4" gap between that and another 90 degree piece. Then it goes down the top of the rear fender (touching the seat) and into a 45 degree angle which sends it up 1" above the choke (the choke I don't need is still functional!!!)

On the top of the pipe is a 1-1/4" male threaded piece which my 1-3/4" K&N shrouded air filter fits perfectly onto. It looks great, and I'm going to buy another freaking USB cable because my wife lost mine... Why don't I want her useing the camera again?? I'll have pictures tomorrow.

I went to a salvage yard today looking for a rack I could put on the mount I'm making, and ran into an ATV guy. He understood what I was trying to do and is going to find me an airbox off of one of thier cars that I can use for my snorkle. If I get this front rack done, I'm going redo the PVC part of my snorkle with 1-1/2" black ABS and run it into the airbox. Then I can waterproof the airbox with some silicone and run an intake off of the top to make a really nice looking snorkle. Plus it would use a pretty large filter area, so maybe I can reduce any vacume created in the snorkle! =)

I'm very happy with it as is though, and if I don't have any issues with running too rich, I might just replace my K&N shroud with my larger K&N filter and build a tube-shaped box to go around the filter with a snorkle coming out of the top for maximum splash protection. =)

I'm going to take the snorkle to the carwash and power-wash it out to make sure there is no sand or anything in there and test that it is water tight. Then after it dries I'm going to get some chrome spray paint and some 100 grit sand paper and paint the metal cover that goes over the K&N filter and all the PVC. When you use clearcoat on chrome, it tends to look more like aluminum, and I think it will look awsome. I wish I had a mandel bending machine and I could have made an ultimate snorkle for this sucker.

I have a pretty big job ahead of me and I hope I can get it all done before the parts get here. I'm going to paint the snorkle, take off all the body panels and use connector grease on all the pins (to help prevent shorts) and insulate anything I can. Then I have to run the clutch vent (oil overflow?) tube that comes out of the back of the block up to the handlebars and plug up the carb drain hose. After that, I'm thinking about using wire covers on all of the wires and rubber boots on my connectors (filled with non-conductive, waterproof grease) to keep water out of my connectors.) That should pretty much take care of any water issues this guy should have. Anyone else know of anything? My lights are already sealed up very well. Unfortunately the rear taillight only comes on when I brake... I need the right part number, then I have to re-seal it. =(

-JNY