No Spark on my Jet 250?
#1
I was kind of afraid of this, just after we had welded up the broken 250's swing arm it was running quite rough then it stopped and would not start again. I spent some time before winter trying to figure it out but just left it and hoped it would fix it's self. Today I got it back out and it still will not start and has no spark at all! I'm not getting anything at either side of coil using my Fluke multi meter. I swapped out with the other 250 what I think is the CDI unit and it made no difference. I have not swapped the coil out yet being it's a bit hard to get to with the plastic on. Any other Ideas as to what may be going on. I also checked the 3way switch and I do have 12v power there!
Any suggestions, I removed the rear plastic to get better access to everything!
My Blue 250 is running great!
Any suggestions, I removed the rear plastic to get better access to everything!
My Blue 250 is running great!
#3
Thanks John, If I cant figure it out tomorrow I will get a hold of you Monday! Tell me is the CDI the box to the left and in front of the gas tank? I thought it was the one to the right with the fins but my other 250 ran with that disconnected so I figured that must not be it!
#5
Yea thats what I thought! I did swap that CDI with my blue 250 and the blue 250 ran but the red 250 with the Blue's CDI still would not fire! So it looks like the CDI is not the problem!
I also checked that inline Fuse and it was fine!
I also checked that inline Fuse and it was fine!
#7
I was reading to fast you did check the fuse already, so my first comment did not apply! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
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#8
With what you have swapped out so, it probably leaves only two things: the coil or the Crankshaft firing trigger under the left engine cover above the shift lever.
The coil is an easy one to swap out. On mine (at least) the spark plug wire seems "fused" into the coil - so just swap the coils with the plug wire still attached.
If it still doesn't start - make it ready to start (key, kill switches, Brake on with brake light lite) and hook up the volt meter between the disconnected positive lead at the coil and ground. Crank engine and you should get a pulsating flow at the meter (take spark plug out to crank easier.
If no pusating current flow - then it probably means the crank "Trigger" got hammered. I don't know if it is separate from the magneto assembly or not, but it is under the left engine cover.
If the Quad doesn't charge in the future, it is probably one or both of the "diodes" which are wrapped in the wire harness near the left side of the gas tank. You can "feel" the square bulges in the harness, Just cut or unwrap the harness tape to get down to them. They just plug into the harness - easy to change.
NEVER - NEVER weld on anything with any type of electronics in it without disconnecting & covering both the Pos & Neg battery leads. The welder can send a reverse flow of high current thru everything electronic and burn them out.
The coil is an easy one to swap out. On mine (at least) the spark plug wire seems "fused" into the coil - so just swap the coils with the plug wire still attached.
If it still doesn't start - make it ready to start (key, kill switches, Brake on with brake light lite) and hook up the volt meter between the disconnected positive lead at the coil and ground. Crank engine and you should get a pulsating flow at the meter (take spark plug out to crank easier.
If no pusating current flow - then it probably means the crank "Trigger" got hammered. I don't know if it is separate from the magneto assembly or not, but it is under the left engine cover.
If the Quad doesn't charge in the future, it is probably one or both of the "diodes" which are wrapped in the wire harness near the left side of the gas tank. You can "feel" the square bulges in the harness, Just cut or unwrap the harness tape to get down to them. They just plug into the harness - easy to change.
NEVER - NEVER weld on anything with any type of electronics in it without disconnecting & covering both the Pos & Neg battery leads. The welder can send a reverse flow of high current thru everything electronic and burn them out.
#9
We did weld it with out disconnecting the battery (did not even think about it) so it may have something to do with it but I have had it running after the weld job so perhaps that was not the cause!!
#10
Just had to come back and tell what was the problem, I hate to read through a thread and find the guy did not come back and tell what the fix was.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]
Found the problem today while talking with John from Raceway on the phone, a wire had broken at the CDI. Did not catch it the first time I switch out the CDI but this time it completely broke off so it was easy to see.
Crimped and soldered it back on and it's now up an d running just gotta put the plastic back on.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Found the problem today while talking with John from Raceway on the phone, a wire had broken at the CDI. Did not catch it the first time I switch out the CDI but this time it completely broke off so it was easy to see.
Crimped and soldered it back on and it's now up an d running just gotta put the plastic back on.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]


