I tried using a 6" long, 3/4" fine thread bolt with a deep socket in front of it to no avail. I tightened it in, hit end with a hammer after each 1/4 turn, never-seez on threads, sprayed inside with silicone spray. I'm afraid to tighten it anymore for fear of stripping the threads. Any suggestions for removal? I ordered the puller tool off ebay, but I expect to have the same problem.
The secondary slid right off

Reason for removal is access to the starter. One bolt is easy to remove, the 2nd is blocked by the inner clutch cover. It bent it back slightly with a pry bar to allow enough room to get the bolt out og the engine block hole. I then twisted the starter to remove...what a pain. If I can't get the drive clutch off, I will have to re-install starter the same way I removed it.

Also, I removed the fly-wheel cover because I'm replacing the bendix as well. Is it normal for the inside to have a thin, greasy coating?

 

Some (with small hands) have just removed the air box and say they have gotten the bottom starter bolt out by twisting the starter?) My hands wouldn't let me! I have to pull the clutch like you! Just get the correct puller and use a 1/2" air impact and 1" socket and the clutch will pop off. I've even tried using my 3/8" Snap On MG 31 and it wont budge the front clutches! It takes a big impact to vibrate em loose! The grease is from the starter bendix especially at the inserts where the bendix shaft rides in the engine and recoil cover. It does sling a little grease around the insides. OPT

 

I've been turning by hand using a socket since I don't have an air compressor. I will try once by hand when I get the puller and if that doesn't work. If it doesn't, my neighbor has a service truck with built in air compressor, will have to borrow. Thanks

 

Take the starter out by removing the air box ,much easier and quicker. The bottom starter bolt will not pull out but will disconnect,then just turn the starter 180 degrees and pull the bolt out.

My manual also said to remove the clutch housing back plate to remove the starter which is one long day to do a simple starter change.

If you do want to take the drive clutch off here is a good video of a guy doing it.

 

I did remove the air box and intake that connects to carb, along with the air intake duct that connects to the top of the clutch housing. I got the starter out, it's getting it back in that I'm worried about. As I mentioned above, I have spent several HOURS trying to remove the drive clutch. I have tightened the puller bolt against 2 sockets to the point where the sockets won't attach to a ratchet. I hope to have the puller tool tomorrow and I will update.

 

UPDATE

I received my starter and bendix from DB Electric. Also received my drive clutch puller. I had to tighten the puller using a ratchet. I tightened as far as I could, hit the end with a hammer and the thing would not budge. I do not have an air compressor and my neighbor who does was unavailable.
I was able to re-install the new starter with greater ease than removal. Works great. My old starter is seized up where the shaft comes out of the starter casing. I took the cover off and sprayed thoroughly with WD-40 but it won't budge. The internals look greater, very clean and the brushes look good as well. Going to see if I can drive the shaft out with a hammer, clean it up and keep for a spare. When I installed the new starter I put some RTV sealant arounf the lip of the starter to keep any water out.

 

If the brushes aren't worn enough to warrant replacing them,just take some emory cloth to the starter armature to remove any dirt,rust build up and clean up any dust in the housing and clean up the face of the brushes. Check for any flat/worn spots on the armature then reassemble with the brush plate. Test it using jumper cables. Moisture is a common problem on starters sticking. OPT