2007 Polaris Sportsman 450 Carb issue
#1
2007 Polaris Sportsman 450 Carb issue
My Sportsman was dripping gas out the carb bowl overflow tube while running. I purchased a Moose carb rebuild kit and changed everything out. Started fine and runs great until I really push on the throttle, then it sputters like not getting enough fuel.
What did I do wrong?
Thanks
What did I do wrong?
Thanks
#2
Did you check the main and pilot jets that came in the kit to make sure they were the same as the old ones? Should have been if the kit was model specific. Plus was float assy parallel with float bowl when held upside down? Blow out all orifices,diaphragm spring and needle hold down washer ok? If all this is ok, then possible some little piece of dirt,trash or even degraded fuel line could be stopping up a jet or even fuel flow under the needle valve seat.
#3
I didn't touch the pilot jet since it has a plug in it. The kit came with 2 Main Jets, I used the one that matched what came out, .657 I believe. Float is parallel. I blew everything out and hold down washer was replaced.
Not sure how to verify fuel flow to carb since it has a fuel pump?
Lines are good and gas comes out of the line when removed from the carb. I assume flow is good when running.
I just came back from some extensive riding prior to doing this carb work and the machine ran great.
I have the carb detached, but all lines are still attached. when I press the throttle, the throttle plate opens more as pushed. But I notice the Jet Block Assy does not move up. I believe that should raise up to permit more air flow as the throttle is increased. Must the engine be running with everything hooked up before that will raise?
Not sure how to verify fuel flow to carb since it has a fuel pump?
Lines are good and gas comes out of the line when removed from the carb. I assume flow is good when running.
I just came back from some extensive riding prior to doing this carb work and the machine ran great.
I have the carb detached, but all lines are still attached. when I press the throttle, the throttle plate opens more as pushed. But I notice the Jet Block Assy does not move up. I believe that should raise up to permit more air flow as the throttle is increased. Must the engine be running with everything hooked up before that will raise?
#4
The diaphragm and slide will raise only when engine is running.You can reach in and manually press up on the slide and it should raise and return down if the spring,slide needle holder are correctly in place.You can always disconnect the fuel line from the carb,crank the engine over and fuel should pulse from the line. If it was running good before you tore into the carb,then sounds like you need to retrace your steps.
#5
Yes, it manually slides very easily. I wanted to clean it, but can't remove. It has 2 Torx type screws, but there is a small pin in the center, I can't use my Torx to remove, would need a hole in the center of it. I'm going to swing by my local dealer and see what they say. I'm not seeing anything wrong.
Does the Jet Needle holes need to be aligned a certain way? I just pushed the old one out and put the new one in.
Does the Jet Needle holes need to be aligned a certain way? I just pushed the old one out and put the new one in.
#6
The carb needle jet(#5) has a slot that lines up in the jet block body. The washer and main jet hold it in snug. There's no need to remove the jet block assy torque screws and jet block from the carb unless it shows extreme wear marks from the slide and needs to be replaced. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
#7
I stopped by my local Polaris dealer for some help. The carb was apart and a mechanic took a look. He said everything looked fine and put it back together for me. I brought it home and put it on and it does the same thing. The only thing I know to do is purchase a Polaris needle and seat and see if that works.
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#8
Update:
I left all the Moose carb kit pieces in the carb, but I removed the airbox and ran without it. IT RUNS GREAT. The air filter and sleeve are only 3 months old. Filter is very slightly discolored with no major dirt. I scrubbed the mesh sleeve, dried and re-installed. RUNS GREAT. DONE
I left all the Moose carb kit pieces in the carb, but I removed the airbox and ran without it. IT RUNS GREAT. The air filter and sleeve are only 3 months old. Filter is very slightly discolored with no major dirt. I scrubbed the mesh sleeve, dried and re-installed. RUNS GREAT. DONE
#9
Well, evidently I'm not done with this issue. Went riding on some BIG mountains last week and when on steep inclines, under heavy load, giving full throttle it continues to sputter. Odd thing is, it doesn't do it all the time. At times I can let off the gas then re-apply and it will not do it. I was in these same mountains prior to carb rebuild and had no problems. I'm not sure what to try next. Any ideas???
I'm considering putting the old carb pieces back in and see what it does.
Another note:
About 2 months ago I switched from Startron to the green lucas safeguard product. I'm going to switch back. Not sure if it's my imagination, but it seems as though my carb issue started after switching products. I have several other quads that seem harder to start and quirks when running that I never had before.
I'm considering putting the old carb pieces back in and see what it does.
Another note:
About 2 months ago I switched from Startron to the green lucas safeguard product. I'm going to switch back. Not sure if it's my imagination, but it seems as though my carb issue started after switching products. I have several other quads that seem harder to start and quirks when running that I never had before.
#10