hey guys, ive got a 300ex and i need to know what kind of oil to use. ive had 2 honda techs from 2 differant dealerships say to use 20w-50 castrol gtx. another tech said to use honda hp4 only! and yet another say to use honda gn4 only! i just dont know what to do! thanks, nathan.

 

Truth is almost anything you put in there will probably work fine...But, I would avoid synthetic as compatability with the fiber clutch plates is a concern. I would use 10w-40 except in very hot weather.

 

thanks fer the reply. i put a quart of 20w-50 castrol and the rest 20w-50 castrol synthetic blend in her today. i only used the synthetic because in our performance marine engines we have seen a decrease in engine temps by up to 20 degrees. i was thinkin that it may help keep it runnin cooler. by the way, isnt the hp4 honda oil a synthetic? at over $6 a quart it dang well should be!!! anyhow, i guess next oil change ill just use the regular oil w/ no synthetics. by the way, what filter do yuns use? i bought a wix (part# 24922) fer $5. thanks, nathan.

 

I am switching to Valvoline ATV 4-stroke Oil, 10w40 in our Rancher and Rubicon. Valvolines new ATV oil has the same API SF/SG rating as Honda GN4 plus friction addatives for the clutches and is not an "energy conserving oil". I have spoken with Valvoline they have assured me this oil meets and/or exceeds all Honda requirements. It states right on the bottle "Meets or exceeds Manufactures"s Warranty Requirements" and "Using This Product Will Not Void Manufatures Warranty".. And it is 1/2 what Honda GN4 costs. I have used only Valvoline All Climate 10w40 (regular engine oil) upto this point so now I spend twice as much on oil.

Sorry, I don't mean to sound like a Valvoline comercial. I know there are alot of other great oils out there. The regular 10w40 has been fine for us.

There is a difference in oil with a SF/SG rating than the oil with the SL rating that all the current oils on the shelf carry. Although not much difference, the SF/SG oil does contain copper and other metals that some feal actuall fill scratches in the metal in the engine. All regular engine oil with the SF/SG rating had these "heavy metals" in them, oil with the SL ratings don't.

Keep the oil changed on a regular basis and use a quality oil.

 

dont use car oil! or anything that says "energy conserving" on it. it'll cook yer clutch and maybe worse.
wheres the owners manual? it'll tell ya.

 

Honda's HP4 oil was not recommended for many of their machines (by Honda!!) for a long time. Now they have two types of HP4. One with a moly additive just like their old stuff, and one without. They come in different color bottles. Confused yet? Anyway, Honda says you can use the regular HP4 without the moly additive in any of their machines. You asked if it is synthetic? I believe HP4 is a synthetic\petroleum blend.

 

Very interesting
I had planned to use a regular 10W40 engine oil in my new Traxter Max that meets their spec. Bomb requires using a high-quality high-detergent oil with a API spec of SG, SH or SJ. But now I think I will try the Valvoline ATV oil.

More info here.

 

An oil being syntetic is NOT what causes clutch problems. IT's the "anti-friction additives" that are added to energy conserving oils, and even worse, those labeled Energy Conserving II. And it will only affect your clutch, nothing else.

Most oils 10w40 and up are not energy conserving and will work fine. Even the.79/quart stuff. It's really how often you change your oil instead of the type of oil.

Honda GN4 oil is about 1/4 synthetic. And, IMHO, not worth the cost. Instead, I use Mobil 1 15w50 all year round (even winter here in MN) in all my quads (and my FZ1) and it works great, is fully synthetic, etc..

I've even used Mobil 1 5w30 in my 250R (now sold) during the winter with zero problems with the clutch.

Most motorcycle manuals and others, if they say anything about energy conserving oils, will say to stay away from Energy Conserving II oils.

Don't believe that because an oil is synthetic it will make your clutch slip. That's simply uniformed and misunderstood information about what actually makes an oil synthetic.

If you like paying extra because of the pic of the Motorcycle on the front for oil, go for it. Use whatever oil makes you feel like you're doing the right thing, but don't believe the synthetic is more "slippery" BS. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I appreciate your knowledge and experience, but i'm gonna stay with what i know and the manufacturer says simply cuz i cant afford a new clutch....but thanks! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

No problem with that, but make sure it's what the manufacturer says, not the dealer. BIG difference. Manufacturer specifies a type of oil (usually some grade or better, and not energy conserving II). The dealer will sell you his most expensive "ATV Only" oil. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Stealers, errr.. dealers.. About as smart as a bag of marbles.