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Water Proofing

Old May 25, 2005 | 01:15 PM
  #1  
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Default Water Proofing

I guess this question is really directed to the guys with snorkles. What other water proofing measures do you take with your quads to make them run under water (aside from the intake snorkle with the vent lines ran into them and the exhaust snorkle). This past weekend we ran 3 quads through a deep mudhole, my 450 forman, a rancher and a rincon. All 3 at some point stalled in the hole, all 3 were stock with regards to intakes and exhauts. There was no water in the airbox on any machine but the whole engine was under water. Sometimes they'd restart, other times no way. (I know that it wont restart with the exhaust under becuase of the backpressure.) I can only figure that the coil or something got wet becuase as soon as the engine came out of the water, they'd start right up. (blowing some water out the exhaust ofcourse!!!)
 
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Old May 25, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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Default Water Proofing

The only thing that you need to do other than what you mentioned (intake, vent lines, exhaust), is to coat all wire connections with some di-electric grease. I have never modified my exhaust and I have never had a problem. If the quad can breathe(intake) it will keep running. I have ridden with my handlebars under water and it stayed running without an exhaust snorkel. I have never had it cut off while under water so I can't explain why it wouldn't start once it died. I would guess that the reason it shut off is because the stock snorkel went under water long enough for it to restrict the air going to the airbox and it shut off before you actually got water in the engine. I can put my hand over my snorkel and the engine will die within 2 seconds if it is at idle. I actually rode my 98 Fourtrax 300 with only an intake snorkel(no vent line or exhaust) for about 6 months and it went through everything. The only problem I had was water in the brakes and water in the differential. I had to change diff fluid after almost every ride and my brakes were always shot b/c of the water in the drums. If you do everything right, deep water will cause no problems and it is so much fun.

Good Luck!

Cirviver
 
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Old May 25, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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Default Water Proofing

Thanks, I coated the electrical connectors with dielectric grease first when I got the bike, probably wouldnt hurt to do it again. It is possible that the air was blocked off at the snorkle on the bikes, there was no water in the airboxes, but its still a possibility.

The only problem i find with the exhaust under water is that the bike loses power with the extra backpresure, no big deal, just have to keep the bike reved up a little.

THANKS AGAIN
 
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Old May 25, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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Default Water Proofing

On the small-bore motors there is not enough backpressure to keep the exhaust from stalling out the engine after prolonged exposure (make sure you pull the plug if it cuts off). I wouldn't think the Rincon would have had this problem but who knows. The di-electric grease is the best measure to take. Fill the plug boot up and the rectifier and any other connections that are exposed to water. Plug the carb drain line up with a screw, etc when going in water also.
 
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Old May 25, 2005 | 04:25 PM
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Default Water Proofing

Glad I could help.

FYI- I bought everything that I needed for my snorkel at Lowes and it cost me about $30.00 for everything. The only thing that I couldn't get at Lowes was the metal mounting bracket for the riser pipe. I work with metal so I made one for free out of some scrap. I will have pictures of my 05 Rubi snorkel in the next day or so.

Cirviver
 
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Old May 25, 2005 | 04:53 PM
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Default Water Proofing

You might want to run the differential breather lines to the snorkle too.
Make sure the outside porcilen of the spark plug is clean, and coated with dielectric grease. Alot of times, this is why the engine kills when it gets in deep water...the spark shorts out. Then when you come out of the water, and the warm motor evaporates the water on the spark plug, itll restart.
 
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