recon won't start
#1
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I bought a Recon the summer of 2004. I have barely riden it over the past year and a half maybe 10 hrs total. I crank it at least once a week. Last week I tried to start it and it would turn over but not start. It was getting fire and gas, but would only hit once in a while. After trying to crank it off and on for over an hour --to let the starter cool, it finally cranked right up and ran well. It did the same thing today, but I did not know if it was going to start as it took on and off all day for it to start. Any ideas? Once it starts it runs/starts great. I did ride it a little today and let it idle more than usual to try and burn out any bad gas and to let it run. I am planning on selling, just have not got around to it.
#2
#3
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I never have adjusted the valves, should they be adjusted after only 10 hours? I am wondering about the qauality of the newer Hondas. I have already had problems with the front breaks seizing up after siting overnight, and other things and now it won't start.My 1985 model has a gazillion miles/hours, and still runs well.
Stumped.
Stumped.
#4
#5
#6
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Thanks guys will do. I am going to try and run/ride it today and get the valves adjusted. Can I adjust the valves myself or do you have to take it to the dealer? I have not inquired about that, will look in my owners manual too.
Thanks again. Anyone need a 250?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Thanks again. Anyone need a 250?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#7
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You can do it yourself, if you get a clymer service manual it does a good job showing how to adjust them, and what the clearances are. You could take it to the dealer if you're not sure about it. Actually, if there's a regular powersports shop that isn't a new quad dealer you'll probably be able to get it done for much cheaper. The shop I go to charges $20 to do it if I take the quad in with the front fenders removed and the gas tank unbolted to save time on easy labor.
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#8
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Unless you hear a LOT of tapping in the top of the head (and I mean a lot), I would look elsewhere. If the valves happen to need adjustment then it's only a thousandth or 2. Not enough to cause these sort of problems. I've seen and worked on ATV that the valves were never touched, in 10-15 years. I never needed to adjust them on my old 86 ALT-185. I checked my 99 and 2002 and they were fine, not enough to bother messing with them.
I'm not trying to start a valve clearance war, just saying that once the valves are set <u>correctly</u>, there is not a big need to reset them every year. If the lock nut comes loose then you will have bigger problems than them being out a couple thousandths. Of course if the nut came loose then they were not done correctly. Again if they are out that much, you will hear a lot of ticking in the top end, but the bike will still run.
Also check your fuel filter/strainer. Also you may need to clean the carb. Needles get stuck, crud will settle in the jets, float around, then settle again.
Good Luck,
Rob
I'm not trying to start a valve clearance war, just saying that once the valves are set <u>correctly</u>, there is not a big need to reset them every year. If the lock nut comes loose then you will have bigger problems than them being out a couple thousandths. Of course if the nut came loose then they were not done correctly. Again if they are out that much, you will hear a lot of ticking in the top end, but the bike will still run.
Also check your fuel filter/strainer. Also you may need to clean the carb. Needles get stuck, crud will settle in the jets, float around, then settle again.
Good Luck,
Rob
#9
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You wouldn't hear any tapping if the valves were adjusted too high, and aren't closing all the way. I don't see how the carb could keep it from starting, but then allow the engine to run properly once it finally starts. I've never had a carb problem like that at least, and can't think of what would cause it. I DO know though that mis-adjusted valves can result in the same condition honda125 is going through, because we went though this with the neighbor's kawi bayou, you would have to either crank it for 10 minutes to get it started, or pull it in gear behind another quad for a while to get it started. Once it fired up it ran like a champ, and once we adjusted the valves it would fire right away like normal.
#10
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The great valve adjustment debate continues...but the last one for me. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
If the valves were help open it would really run like crap IMO. If it's the intake you'd get backfiring and such. Just went throught this with a slightly bent valve. At best you'd have to keep it revved up.
Extremely rare valves are left open unles they were not set correctly before. Componuts such as the valve stem, rocker, etc tend to wear over time, thus opening up the valves clearances.
Blockages in the carb can be from particles moving around in the gas in the bowl. Plus the idle circuit is different from the WOT or anything in between circuit.
Good Luck,
Rob
If the valves were help open it would really run like crap IMO. If it's the intake you'd get backfiring and such. Just went throught this with a slightly bent valve. At best you'd have to keep it revved up.
Extremely rare valves are left open unles they were not set correctly before. Componuts such as the valve stem, rocker, etc tend to wear over time, thus opening up the valves clearances.
Blockages in the carb can be from particles moving around in the gas in the bowl. Plus the idle circuit is different from the WOT or anything in between circuit.
Good Luck,
Rob
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