|
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Hi again all honda guys. Thanks for all your help in my previous topic..To make it short, I had a problem with my quad cutting and I though it was a carb problem but after trying many things, I figured out my jetting was right on and that I would need to go farther in the engine... Then I thought:'If it's not carburetion, it must be ignition'...So I Opened my flywheel cover to discover with horror that there was some water in it !... Everything in there is rusty...I started by removing all the rust on the pulse generator, since it was covered in it...No luck, it's still cutting...
THere is also some rust on the flywheel and I don't know the state of the stator since I don't have a puller to remove the flywheel...Something else too, when I move the flywheel up and down, there seems to be some free play. Can't tell if it's the flywheel on the crankshaft or the crankshaft moving though...Is it normal or does it means my main seal/bearings is shot ? So here are my idea of what could be damaged...let me know what you think Pulse Generator Stator Flywheel (Unlikely AFAIK) Coil Bad/Damaged wire in the harness (Unlikely too, checked most of them) CDI BOX I have my service manual and tried to check the resistance of the coil but looks like my multimeter sucks (Or I just don't know how it works, go figure...) I have another problem though (Which really piss me off too)...The quad is drinking awful amount of coolant!...It can drink a whole radiator in a day... I got the radiator pressure checked, and there were no leak. Head gasket looks good, every cylinder head bolts looks like to be torqued correctly. All the hoses are allright. Just changed the water pump mechanical seal so that shouldn't be the problem. The only place it was leaking a little was from the refill tank hose but I fixed it tonight. Another strange thing with this too....The radiator will be empty but the refill tank will still be full,...why isn't the tank refilling the rad ? Thanks again a lot for your time guys/gals, Pierre-Yves |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Small Update...
Checked the resistance of all the coils (Don't remember the name) and they were all in the given range excepting the ignition coil which is supposed to be 0.1-0.3 ohm and was 0.05... Both secondary resistance were not in range either... Could it be my culprit (Looks like it is but I still ask since I know nearly nothing in electric) |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
i know stuff, and .05 ohms is not happy. That sounds like some instulation has come off the coil wire and a few shorted together. DO NOT try to fix that. Buy one.
|
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Originally posted by: JimmyHoffa i know stuff, and .05 ohms is not happy. That sounds like some instulation has come off the coil wire and a few shorted together. DO NOT try to fix that. Buy one. Thanks ! By the way, it's only mainly cutting on top end, like it's not able to burn it's fuel...kinda the effect of hitting the rev limiter Nonetheless, the quad is still really fast [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Thats a weird effect, but i KNOW if the resistance of that coil is that far off, it needs to be replaced anyways.
|
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
also, if you know wether the 250r has any type of auto-ignition advance system (something that adusts timing as the engine revs up) then i could REALLY help narrow your problem down. Ive just seen it on some newer dirt bikes and i donno if they had it then.
|
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Originally posted by: JimmyHoffa also, if you know wether the 250r has any type of auto-ignition advance system (something that adusts timing as the engine revs up) then i could REALLY help narrow your problem down. Ive just seen it on some newer dirt bikes and i donno if they had it then. Dirtbikes technology is really really REALLY advanced as compared to my 'ol 250 [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
BUMP!
|
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
TQS230,
Your rad leak could be the radiator cap. Chances are its original...20 years old!!! The cap also controls the coolant flowing back into the radiator as it cools. Rust in the flywheel believe it or not, is somewhat normal. Its caused by condensation and water ingress forced by pressure washers. If I were you I would clean everything and apply a thin coat of oil before you install the cover. Make sure the gasket is good and use a little silicone to seal it. The loosness in the crank is the main bearings!!! Depending on how bad it is it can cause the seals to leak which would result in oil accumulation in the flywheel area and a lean run condition that you will not be able to cure by jetting. Considering the rust problem you have, I doubt the bearings are that loose but any loosness at all will cause a power loss and extra engine noise and vibration. Its a good indication that your engine need the bottom-end rebuilt. I did the job on my own 250R years ago and it cost $150 for bearings, seals and new rod installed. Another $130 for the top-end. Parts are still cheap for those things. |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Originally posted by: JSsDS TQS230, Your rad leak could be the radiator cap. Chances are its original...20 years old!!! The cap also controls the coolant flowing back into the radiator as it cools. Rust in the flywheel believe it or not, is somewhat normal. Its caused by condensation and water ingress forced by pressure washers. If I were you I would clean everything and apply a thin coat of oil before you install the cover. Make sure the gasket is good and use a little silicone to seal it. The loosness in the crank is the main bearings!!! Depending on how bad it is it can cause the seals to leak which would result in oil accumulation in the flywheel area and a lean run condition that you will not be able to cure by jetting. Considering the rust problem you have, I doubt the bearings are that loose but any loosness at all will cause a power loss and extra engine noise and vibration. Its a good indication that your engine need the bottom-end rebuilt. I did the job on my own 250R years ago and it cost $150 for bearings, seals and new rod installed. Another $130 for the top-end. Parts are still cheap for those things. Pierre-Yves |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Hmm small update:
Just came back from riding...pushing the quad I was rolling at a slow rpm going somewhere when it just start bogging like it was short on gas...Would idle but no go over 1/8 throttle without stalling. Checked the fuel valve, fuel tank and spark plug...plug was nice, but the spark was yellow (not blue) and somehow weak. Changed the plug for a new one, same thing.... The quad don't start anymore now. I think my coil finally quitted me...Hope it's that...Any inputs welcome Thanks |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Originally posted by: TheQuadSport230 Hmm small update: Just came back from riding...pushing the quad I was rolling at a slow rpm going somewhere when it just start bogging like it was short on gas...Would idle but no go over 1/8 throttle without stalling. Checked the fuel valve, fuel tank and spark plug...plug was nice, but the spark was yellow (not blue) and somehow weak. Changed the plug for a new one, same thing.... The quad don't start anymore now. I think my coil finally quitted me...Hope it's that...Any inputs welcome Thanks Not solving the spark problem though... Something else strange about my rad, the refill tank fill itself from the rad lol...It should be the opposite, the refill tank is supposed to fill the rad [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] What could cause that? |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Yup...sounds like the Radiator cap. Here is how your coolant reservoir works when the cap is good. As the coolant in your system heats up it expands. The radiator being completerly full, has no room for expansion so the resulting pressure pushes the coolant past the seal in the cap and into the reservoir. Only a small amount of coolant will push into the reservoir, just enough to make room for the expansion and no more.
As the engine cools off the coolant retracts creating a vacuum in the radiator which sucks the coolant back into it via a one-way valve in the cap. If the cap is bad, it will not allow any pressure to build because the coolant just flows past the seal and into the reservoir. Eventually this loss of pressure control over fills the reservoir and your coolant runs onto the ground. As you loose coolant the engine runs hotter and continues creating more pressure which pushes more coolant out of the reservoir. Now, the good thing is that the cap is easy to check and doing so takes less time then it took for me to write this LOL. Do a visual inspection of the rubber seal looking for any obvious damage. If that was not conclusive have the cap pressure tested in the same manner that you had your radiator pressure tested. It should build to 14 PSI before leaking off. Better yet, just repalce it. Oh, and Be sure that you use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze in your radiator otherwise you will damage your cylinder and head. PS just read your post regarding spark, You already diagnosed your coil as being bad and that is where your spark comes from. If the coil is failing, the spark will be orange and weak. |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Originally posted by: JSsDS Yup...sounds like the Radiator cap. Here is how your coolant reservoir works when the cap is good. As the coolant in your system heats up it expands. The radiator being completerly full, has no room for expansion so the resulting pressure pushes the coolant past the seal in the cap and into the reservoir. Only a small amount of coolant will push into the reservoir, just enough to make room for the expansion and no more. As the engine cools off the coolant retracts creating a vacuum in the radiator which sucks the coolant back into it via a one-way valve in the cap. If the cap is bad, it will not allow any pressure to build because the coolant just flows past the seal and into the reservoir. Eventually this loss of pressure control over fills the reservoir and your coolant runs onto the ground. As you loose coolant the engine runs hotter and continues creating more pressure which pushes more coolant out of the reservoir. Now, the good thing is that the cap is easy to check and doing so takes less time then it took for me to write this LOL. Do a visual inspection of the rubber seal looking for any obvious damage. If that was not conclusive have the cap pressure tested in the same manner that you had your radiator pressure tested. It should build to 14 PSI before leaking off. Better yet, just repalce it. Oh, and Be sure that you use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze in your radiator otherwise you will damage your cylinder and head. PS just read your post regarding spark, You already diagnosed your coil as being bad and that is where your spark comes from. If the coil is failing, the spark will be orange and weak. Anyways, I've checked and the free play in my flywheel, even minor, is already too much. So I'm now gonna split the case to change the main bearings....I'll be out of riding for some time [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] |
Need More Help With My 250R!!!
Don't forget to check the rod bearing - replace it while the crank is out
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:52 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands