Hi again all honda guys. Thanks for all your help in my previous topic..To make it short, I had a problem with my quad cutting and I though it was a carb problem but after trying many things, I figured out my jetting was right on and that I would need to go farther in the engine... Then I thought:'If it's not carburetion, it must be ignition'...So I Opened my flywheel cover to discover with horror that there was some water in it !... Everything in there is rusty...I started by removing all the rust on the pulse generator, since it was covered in it...No luck, it's still cutting...


THere is also some rust on the flywheel and I don't know the state of the stator since I don't have a puller to remove the flywheel...Something else too, when I move the flywheel up and down, there seems to be some free play. Can't tell if it's the flywheel on the crankshaft or the crankshaft moving though...Is it normal or does it means my main seal/bearings is shot ?

So here are my idea of what could be damaged...let me know what you think

Pulse Generator
Stator
Flywheel (Unlikely AFAIK)
Coil
Bad/Damaged wire in the harness (Unlikely too, checked most of them)
CDI BOX


I have my service manual and tried to check the resistance of the coil but looks like my multimeter sucks (Or I just don't know how it works, go figure...)


I have another problem though (Which really **** me off too)...The quad is drinking awful amount of coolant!...It can drink a whole radiator in a day...

I got the radiator pressure checked, and there were no leak. Head gasket looks good, every cylinder head bolts looks like to be torqued correctly. All the hoses are allright. Just changed the water pump mechanical seal so that shouldn't be the problem. The only place it was leaking a little was from the refill tank hose but I fixed it tonight.
Another strange thing with this too....The radiator will be empty but the refill tank will still be full,...why isn't the tank refilling the rad ?



Thanks again a lot for your time guys/gals,

Pierre-Yves

 

Small Update...

Checked the resistance of all the coils (Don't remember the name) and they were all in the given range excepting the ignition coil which is supposed to be 0.1-0.3 ohm and was 0.05...

Both secondary resistance were not in range either...


Could it be my culprit (Looks like it is but I still ask since I know nearly nothing in electric)

 

i know stuff, and .05 ohms is not happy. That sounds like some instulation has come off the coil wire and a few shorted together. DO NOT try to fix that. Buy one.

 

So if my reading was correct...It sure is the culprit (or at least part of it)?


Thanks !


By the way, it's only mainly cutting on top end, like it's not able to burn it's fuel...kinda the effect of hitting the rev limiter


Nonetheless, the quad is still really fast [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Thats a weird effect, but i KNOW if the resistance of that coil is that far off, it needs to be replaced anyways.

 

also, if you know wether the 250r has any type of auto-ignition advance system (something that adusts timing as the engine revs up) then i could REALLY help narrow your problem down. Ive just seen it on some newer dirt bikes and i donno if they had it then.

 

Can't help you on this one, never heard of this [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

Dirtbikes technology is really really REALLY advanced as compared to my 'ol 250 [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

BUMP!

 

TQS230,
Your rad leak could be the radiator cap. Chances are its original...20 years old!!! The cap also controls the coolant flowing back into the radiator as it cools.

Rust in the flywheel believe it or not, is somewhat normal. Its caused by condensation and water ingress forced by pressure washers. If I were you I would clean everything and apply a thin coat of oil before you install the cover. Make sure the gasket is good and use a little silicone to seal it.

The loosness in the crank is the main bearings!!! Depending on how bad it is it can cause the seals to leak which would result in oil accumulation in the flywheel area and a lean run condition that you will not be able to cure by jetting. Considering the rust problem you have, I doubt the bearings are that loose but any loosness at all will cause a power loss and extra engine noise and vibration. Its a good indication that your engine need the bottom-end rebuilt. I did the job on my own 250R years ago and it cost $150 for bearings, seals and new rod installed. Another $130 for the top-end. Parts are still cheap for those things.

 

Thanks a lot for the suggestions, taking everything in consideration [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]


Pierre-Yves