I was trying to remove one of the screws from the lid on the hydraulic box for the front brake and the head has started stripping. It's a phillips head and it's rounding out when I try to turn it. I have sprayed WD-40 on but it hasn't helped. Does anyone have suggestions on how to remove it?

 

I've used a impact driver ,that turns slightly when hit ,

 

Those screws are a beveled head - if you can't get it out with an impact driver ( or just tapping on your phillips screwdriver with a hammer while applying turning pressure) and the slot strips out, drill the head of the screw off with a drill bit the size of the slots, this will leave just the stub of the screw when you remove the lid. From there you can use vice grips to turn the stub. These screws are cheap at the dealer - don't tighten them much more than snug when putting back on.

 

Thanks Ujoint. Since I don't have an impact driver I'll have to try tapping while turning and if that doesn't work I'll go with the drill. So basically once the head is gone the lid should just slide off? Sounds easy.

 

Dont use any petrolium products near brake fluid. Youll end up contaminating the brake fluid.
Buy youself an ACO Philips screwdriver. The ACO stands for anti cam out, and the philips cross has small serations for gripping the screws, and not allowing the driver to cam out. They even work on buggered up screws, as long as it can get a bite.
If you buy one of those screwdrivers...youll get your moneys worth out of them, and youll use it all the time.

 

Thanks hondabuster. I don't believe there's any fluid in there (which is what I want to verify). The front brake doesn't work and that be why.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I went out and drilled the head of the screw off so I finally was able to get in there and get the lid off. The box was completely dry so that's why my front brake doesn't work. Does it take a specific kind of hydraulic fluid or can I just run up to the store and grab any old brand?

 

I believe on a Honda, the top of the lid says the DOT type of brake fluid - some use DOT 3, some use DOT 4. Use whatever the lid says.

 

Gotcha.

 

DOT 4 is compatable in systems that take DOT 3, just DOT 4 is higher performance and has a higher boiling point. Both are polyethylene glycol based.

DOT 5 is different chemistry (silicone based), and doesn't mix with either 3 or 4, and is mostly used on Harleys.

DOT 5.1, to add to the confusion, is polyethylene glycol based, with a higher boiling point and lower viscosity than DOT4. Often seen in motorcycles with ABS, and sometimes mountain bikes.

Anyhow use what it says on the lid, but if it calls for DOT 3 you can use DOT4. If it specifies DOT 4 don't substitute DOT 3 since it might vaporize and cause loss of braking if the temps in the caliper exceed DOT 3's capability.

Also, a little late now, but you can buy left hand twist drill bits which are handy for removing rounded out screws. Sometimes the bit will grab and twist out the damaged fastener...