Parking brake issue with rancher
#1
Hello All- First post on the forum. We bought an '04 rancher 400 AT a month ago to use mainly for plowing next winter, and mowing (getting a tow behind mower). So far no issues with the tranny, although what I keep reading on this and several other forums scares me a bit. The brake hadn't functioned in a while when I bought it, I don't think the previous owner did much more than utility work around his house. Other than some scratches and dents on the racks, it's very clean. After taking the brakes apart and freeing up the adjusters on the front, they work fine, and so does the rear. However, the parking brake can't be used, otherwise it sticks. I spent some time pumping some lube down the cable housing, but it still binds. Is this a common problem? The kink at the rear where the cable meets the brake carrier seems like a bad idea, but I can't think of a better way to reroute it. A stronger return spring on the brake arm would help, but I'm not sure where I'd get such a thing. Any ideas?
#4
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 04rancherES
does the whole brake handle not work at all? or just the little lever for the parking break not move forward?</end quote></div>
no, the hand lever works, and the rear brake works, but the cable itself binds. If you pull the hand lever, the brake engages, but won't unengage unless you physically pull the rear brake actuator (at the drum) back. I could replace the cable, but it looks like it's a plastic coated cable within a plastic lined sheathing. I'm wondering if this is a common problem (that it binds), and if so what's the best fix?
does the whole brake handle not work at all? or just the little lever for the parking break not move forward?</end quote></div>
no, the hand lever works, and the rear brake works, but the cable itself binds. If you pull the hand lever, the brake engages, but won't unengage unless you physically pull the rear brake actuator (at the drum) back. I could replace the cable, but it looks like it's a plastic coated cable within a plastic lined sheathing. I'm wondering if this is a common problem (that it binds), and if so what's the best fix?
#5
As a long time Honda owner, I have to say you are fighting a losing battle. The rear drum brake system on any Rancher suck. I'd personally, if I fix my old 02 Rancher, would purchase the disc brake upgrade and abandon the drum set up all together. I've never seen one work properly, unless it's brand new (and that goes for my old mans 96 Kawi too).
The main reason I got a BF this time was due to braking issues with the Ranchers.
Drum brakes are good because they are simple, but once they get wet or older, it's constant maintenace.
The main reason I got a BF this time was due to braking issues with the Ranchers.
Drum brakes are good because they are simple, but once they get wet or older, it's constant maintenace.
#6
man, ive never had a problem with my rear brakes and they are set up the same way.
but, i had the same problem as you where you would pull the handle and it would work but then you had to pull it out except my problem was with the foot brake. all i had to do was take it apart, to realize that it was all rusty, then i just took some sandpaper, sanded down the thing it goes up and down on, lube it up and throw it back on and it worked great. so the only thing i would say is to buy some white lithium grease (spray can) and go to your back brake (at the tire) spray it all down, try and get inside of the cable too and do the same thing up at the handlebar lever and just work it in. go in and out a few times and that should just loosen everything up and make it move nice and easy.
but, i had the same problem as you where you would pull the handle and it would work but then you had to pull it out except my problem was with the foot brake. all i had to do was take it apart, to realize that it was all rusty, then i just took some sandpaper, sanded down the thing it goes up and down on, lube it up and throw it back on and it worked great. so the only thing i would say is to buy some white lithium grease (spray can) and go to your back brake (at the tire) spray it all down, try and get inside of the cable too and do the same thing up at the handlebar lever and just work it in. go in and out a few times and that should just loosen everything up and make it move nice and easy.
#7
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 04rancherES
man, ive never had a problem with my rear brakes and they are set up the same way.
but, i had the same problem as you where you would pull the handle and it would work but then you had to pull it out except my problem was with the foot brake. all i had to do was take it apart, to realize that it was all rusty, then i just took some sandpaper, sanded down the thing it goes up and down on, lube it up and throw it back on and it worked great. so the only thing i would say is to buy some white lithium grease (spray can) and go to your back brake (at the tire) spray it all down, try and get inside of the cable too and do the same thing up at the handlebar lever and just work it in. go in and out a few times and that should just loosen everything up and make it move nice and easy.</end quote></div>
Your lucky and probably keep your machine in a-1 condition. If you keep new or good seals and keep the brakes dry, they work fine........but dry is not an option when I drive.....lol
man, ive never had a problem with my rear brakes and they are set up the same way.
but, i had the same problem as you where you would pull the handle and it would work but then you had to pull it out except my problem was with the foot brake. all i had to do was take it apart, to realize that it was all rusty, then i just took some sandpaper, sanded down the thing it goes up and down on, lube it up and throw it back on and it worked great. so the only thing i would say is to buy some white lithium grease (spray can) and go to your back brake (at the tire) spray it all down, try and get inside of the cable too and do the same thing up at the handlebar lever and just work it in. go in and out a few times and that should just loosen everything up and make it move nice and easy.</end quote></div>
Your lucky and probably keep your machine in a-1 condition. If you keep new or good seals and keep the brakes dry, they work fine........but dry is not an option when I drive.....lol
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#8
I just went to the local parts store and brought a brake drum spring off any ol car and attached it to the lever at the drum and attached the other end somewhere close to the trailor hitch ball. Its not much to look at but it will solve your problem. It did mine
#9
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 04rancherES
man, ive never had a problem with my rear brakes and they are set up the same way.
but, i had the same problem as you where you would pull the handle and it would work but then you had to pull it out except my problem was with the foot brake. all i had to do was take it apart, to realize that it was all rusty, then i just took some sandpaper, sanded down the thing it goes up and down on, lube it up and throw it back on and it worked great. so the only thing i would say is to buy some white lithium grease (spray can) and go to your back brake (at the tire) spray it all down, try and get inside of the cable too and do the same thing up at the handlebar lever and just work it in. go in and out a few times and that should just loosen everything up and make it move nice and easy.</end quote></div>
I stopped at the local dealer today to look at another rancher, just to see how it was setup, and buy some inspection plugs for the front drums (they were missing). The one used 350 they had on the lot had a different and better routing for the cable PLUS the cable was obviously recently replaced, so I take that as others have had the same problem. While disk would be ideal, when these are setup right they work fine for my purposes (dry use), so I think I'll just get them working as they should. I have a feeling my cable is f*cked where it was kinked, so I'll buy a new one and route it in a better manner.
man, ive never had a problem with my rear brakes and they are set up the same way.
but, i had the same problem as you where you would pull the handle and it would work but then you had to pull it out except my problem was with the foot brake. all i had to do was take it apart, to realize that it was all rusty, then i just took some sandpaper, sanded down the thing it goes up and down on, lube it up and throw it back on and it worked great. so the only thing i would say is to buy some white lithium grease (spray can) and go to your back brake (at the tire) spray it all down, try and get inside of the cable too and do the same thing up at the handlebar lever and just work it in. go in and out a few times and that should just loosen everything up and make it move nice and easy.</end quote></div>
I stopped at the local dealer today to look at another rancher, just to see how it was setup, and buy some inspection plugs for the front drums (they were missing). The one used 350 they had on the lot had a different and better routing for the cable PLUS the cable was obviously recently replaced, so I take that as others have had the same problem. While disk would be ideal, when these are setup right they work fine for my purposes (dry use), so I think I'll just get them working as they should. I have a feeling my cable is f*cked where it was kinked, so I'll buy a new one and route it in a better manner.
#10
Drum brakes work perfectly fine if you take care of them so take it apart and get a good look at it.
First take the rear brakes apart to check for water/mud/corrosion. take off the shoes and clean and lube the pivot point on each brake shoe.Next take apart the shaft that operates the brakes (cables attach to it on the outside) and clean and lube where it goes through the backing plate. The freeer all this moves, the better your spring will return the handle to its proper position. With everythign apart, manually operate the cable while its not attached at the brake. If its sticking you can try lubing it with a cable greaser, or shooting a good penetrating oil which will eventually work its way through the cable. If this does not work, you may have to replace the cable.
When reassembling the rear brakes, make sure the seal on the shaft that operates the brake is in good shape, the vent hose is attached and not torn anywhere and the seal on the outside cover for the axle is in good shape, and the o-ring seal where the cover bolts on is in good shape. I use silicone on the surface where the cover bolts in place to ensure a good seal. Do not use too much here.
First take the rear brakes apart to check for water/mud/corrosion. take off the shoes and clean and lube the pivot point on each brake shoe.Next take apart the shaft that operates the brakes (cables attach to it on the outside) and clean and lube where it goes through the backing plate. The freeer all this moves, the better your spring will return the handle to its proper position. With everythign apart, manually operate the cable while its not attached at the brake. If its sticking you can try lubing it with a cable greaser, or shooting a good penetrating oil which will eventually work its way through the cable. If this does not work, you may have to replace the cable.
When reassembling the rear brakes, make sure the seal on the shaft that operates the brake is in good shape, the vent hose is attached and not torn anywhere and the seal on the outside cover for the axle is in good shape, and the o-ring seal where the cover bolts on is in good shape. I use silicone on the surface where the cover bolts in place to ensure a good seal. Do not use too much here.


