Oil
#1
Pardon me as seems really simple question but don't own the honda so not in this section much, nor know anything about them.
Step dad has a 04 Rubicon 500 with about 700 miles on it IIRC. Had it for about 3 years now. Mid summer I noticed it was starting to not pull very good down low. Eventually had to go to D1 with it to keep it respecitable. D2 and its to doggy. Sounds like its passed due for an oil change.
Questions:
I'm assuming its fairly easy to do but where should I look for a drain? Fill point?
What oil goes in it?
Last, I'm also assuming the hydrostatic tranny needs oil, so where be a drain for that and what kind of oil?
I know this thing is way passed do for some service so I'll help him out. I've worked on my sled, and haven't had my sportsman long, so not complete nub with doing it. It's just changing fluids after all but nice to have a heads up what I'm getting into.
Just for kicks, the lady when I got her to go out once!
Step dad has a 04 Rubicon 500 with about 700 miles on it IIRC. Had it for about 3 years now. Mid summer I noticed it was starting to not pull very good down low. Eventually had to go to D1 with it to keep it respecitable. D2 and its to doggy. Sounds like its passed due for an oil change.
Questions:
I'm assuming its fairly easy to do but where should I look for a drain? Fill point?
What oil goes in it?
Last, I'm also assuming the hydrostatic tranny needs oil, so where be a drain for that and what kind of oil?
I know this thing is way passed do for some service so I'll help him out. I've worked on my sled, and haven't had my sportsman long, so not complete nub with doing it. It's just changing fluids after all but nice to have a heads up what I'm getting into.
Just for kicks, the lady when I got her to go out once!
#2
Check the rear compartment for the owners manual, it explains it all in there. If you can't locate one pm me, I'll help you out. You have to start by taking the skid plates off. Theres a crank case drain an oil tank drain and a filter bolt that need to be removed. The oil needs to be 10w 40 wet clutch comp (non energy conserving) jaso MA, api SJ.
#3
Also it takes 5.2 quarts, as the engine and transmission share the same oil.
I'd recommend you use a Honda filter. Being a dry sump engine, it is critical that you let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with no throttle blips, then let it sit for about 2 minutes to get an accurate reading from the dipstick.
Even if it isn't used much, the oil needs to be changed at least every year.
I'd recommend you use a Honda filter. Being a dry sump engine, it is critical that you let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with no throttle blips, then let it sit for about 2 minutes to get an accurate reading from the dipstick.
Even if it isn't used much, the oil needs to be changed at least every year.
#4
I'll see if it still has the manual. I know he bought it with about 350-450 miles on it and this will be 4 years now. Some work hauling a trailer and heavy loads of wood every now and then. It's for sure tired. I know if I mention it, he'll probably want me to do it anyways. If I can't find the book, I'll look it over at what I'm getting into then you'll probably hear from me.
This wet clutch oil, where can that be found? Do I have to go to local dealer to pick it up, or can somewhere else save me money. Live in a small area in Michigans U.P. so my options are CarQuest, Napa, Honda dealer, Auto Value, or Walmart.
Thanks guys. Good to know what it is since it decides if I do it at his house with limited tools or trailer it down here where I have my stuff and not as far to run into town if I need something. Also got a buddy that's been working on atvs and snowmobiles for quite a few years that lives 4 houses down if I run into trouble. Any filters should probably peak at while skid plate is off?
This wet clutch oil, where can that be found? Do I have to go to local dealer to pick it up, or can somewhere else save me money. Live in a small area in Michigans U.P. so my options are CarQuest, Napa, Honda dealer, Auto Value, or Walmart.
Thanks guys. Good to know what it is since it decides if I do it at his house with limited tools or trailer it down here where I have my stuff and not as far to run into town if I need something. Also got a buddy that's been working on atvs and snowmobiles for quite a few years that lives 4 houses down if I run into trouble. Any filters should probably peak at while skid plate is off?
#5
You can pick up the oil pretty much anywhere, like they stated before, it is best to get a wet clutch rated oil, lots of brands now have their own line of ATV and bike oil, like Valvoline, Quaker State,etc. You can get by with car oil that is not "energy conserving" rated, but for best engine and clutch life, the little extra for an ATV wet clutch rated oil is worth it. Then you can decide, synthetic, standard,or synthetic blend, yet another choice for you !!!
#7
If you read the links I put in this post, you will know more about oil than anybody at any auto parts store or dealership:
http://forums.atvconnection.com/showthread.php?t=310291
You will not go wrong with a motorcycle oil that is API SG/JASO MA. Look for those letters on the bottle, or on the manufacturer's web site. Beyond that, the synthetics are superior to any petroleum oil.
If your dealer carries Maxima, that is your best bet! They have the best additive package in the industry. They have everything from basic inexpensive petroleum, synthetic blends, and high tech synthetics that are on the cutting edge of modern oil technology:
http://www.maximausa.com/
If your stepdad is neglegent about oil changes, he will be better off with a high quality synthetic!!!
http://forums.atvconnection.com/showthread.php?t=310291
You will not go wrong with a motorcycle oil that is API SG/JASO MA. Look for those letters on the bottle, or on the manufacturer's web site. Beyond that, the synthetics are superior to any petroleum oil.
If your dealer carries Maxima, that is your best bet! They have the best additive package in the industry. They have everything from basic inexpensive petroleum, synthetic blends, and high tech synthetics that are on the cutting edge of modern oil technology:
http://www.maximausa.com/
If your stepdad is neglegent about oil changes, he will be better off with a high quality synthetic!!!
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#8
Very good info. I'll make sure to have this info jotted down and look like a dolt as I compare my notes to oil. But if it keeps the quad running that much better and stronger, I have no problem with that!
#9
A set of metric sockets is all you need. Maintenance is of the utmost importance on a rubi. The good news is that it only has 700 miles. The maintenance schedule says at least once per year. The initial should have been done before he got it at 100 miles or 20 hours, next is at 600 miles or 100 hrs. I change mine every 50 hrs.



