Engine Oil for the Hondamatic Transmission
#11
i just changed the oil it had 39 hrs on it and i know it was never changed he bought it in 03 took one trip on some wi trails and started getting sick so it wasnt ridden much in 5 years and the oil was completly black and looked bad....seems 600 miles is to much to me?? ive always changed my 4 strokes (reg oil) like 30 to 40 hrs when it started looking bad. so im new to the synthetic but always run 2 stroke synthetic in my 400 beasts.
thanks again.
#12
Generally, I just reset the oil change thing when I service it.
Some years I get to ride a lot, and it will come on mid season.
Other years, I'll be changing it 12 months later with not many miles on it.
I wouldn't go over 12 months. Also, I wouldn't switch to synthetics until totally broken in, and don't be afraid to get on the throttle during break in.
Some years I get to ride a lot, and it will come on mid season.
Other years, I'll be changing it 12 months later with not many miles on it.
I wouldn't go over 12 months. Also, I wouldn't switch to synthetics until totally broken in, and don't be afraid to get on the throttle during break in.
#13
Every manufacturer has a vested interest in presenting their vehicles as being "low maintenance". So, the maintenance intervals in the owner's manual are ridiculously long, and do not reflect conditions that actually exist in the real world. A wise owner will take that into consideration......
#14
There are three very different types of synthetics! Rotella is Group III, which has nothing special going for it other than price. Amsoil and Mobil 1 (rumor is that Mobil 1 is now Group III ???) are Group IV PAO, which is better. Better yet are the Group V esters.
Ester and PAO actually compliment eachother in many ways. The best oils will be ester based, with some PAO thrown in for "balance". I run Redline in all my quads (don't be scared off by the fact that it is JASO MB...it is still wet clutch safe), and Maxima Extra and Ultra in my bikes.
Ester and PAO actually compliment eachother in many ways. The best oils will be ester based, with some PAO thrown in for "balance". I run Redline in all my quads (don't be scared off by the fact that it is JASO MB...it is still wet clutch safe), and Maxima Extra and Ultra in my bikes.
#15
What about Valvoline ATV 10W40 oil??? As of right now I use the Honda GN4 Oil 10W40 and looking into something better then that. Reading what you wrote Maxima and Red line. I asked a Honda dealer sell department person and they did not recommend me any Synthetic oil for my Rancher 420 because of the clutches. Is he wrong???
#16
i just changed the oil it had 39 hrs on it and i know it was never changed he bought it in 03 took one trip on some wi trails and started getting sick so it wasnt ridden much in 5 years and the oil was completly black and looked bad....seems 600 miles is to much to me?? ive always changed my 4 strokes (reg oil) like 30 to 40 hrs when it started looking bad. so im new to the synthetic but always run 2 stroke synthetic in my 400 beasts.
thanks again.
thanks again.
#17
What about Valvoline ATV 10W40 oil??? As of right now I use the Honda GN4 Oil 10W40 and looking into something better then that. Reading what you wrote Maxima and Red line. I asked a Honda dealer sell department person and they did not recommend me any Synthetic oil for my Rancher 420 because of the clutches. Is he wrong???
History of Engine Oil
Read this article, but particularly the last paragraph. This "synthetic and clutches" issue, continues to get propagated by just plain old ignorance:
Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1 - Sport Rider Magazine
I ran Maxima Extra or Ultra in all my quads for 8 years, and I have never had a clutch issue of any kind!!! Even my 10 year old 400EX and Rancher 350, still have the original clutches.
Redline has only make motorcycle oil for a couple of years now. When Redline came along, I switched all my quads over to it. It is extremely slick and rated JASO MB, so if anything should make a clutch slip, it should. (It is MB becasue of space age organic friction modifiers, but these are wet clutch safe....unlike the inorganic modifier moly.) I am seeing a preformance increase, running Redline!!! All that reduced friction nets a gain in torque and horsepower. My Rancher 420 screams!!!
As for Valvoline, if it is motorcycle specific and rated API SG/JASO MA, it meets the basic standards. But remember, any synthetic will always be better than plain old petroleum.....
#18
From what i understand, you can use synthetic as long as it doesn't have any anti-friction additives such as you find in car oil. I use Mobil 1 motorcycle racing oil and have used it since my first oil change and have had zero problems. Just changed it the other day at 60 miles with 25 hours and the old oil was very clean, probably could have gone a while longer. I want to keep this quad for a long time so I'll continue to use synthetic oil and change it often. my honda dealer sells mobil 1 syn for $14.oo a quart, cost me $50 for three quarts and a filter but that's cheap insurance to keep the engine in top notch. I have seen the mobil 1 syn motorcycle oil online for $8.00 a quart probably will buy a case of that next time I need an oil change. I paid $6000.00 for my quad and plan on having it for many years of trouble free operation. Now I need to look into synthetic for my front and rear differentials.
Given that fact, I think there are better choices out there!!! Again, the best synthetic will be ester based, with some PAO added for balance:
http://www.maximausa.com/technical/l...beNews2002.pdf
http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf
#19
The common wisdom is to do your break-in riding on petroleum oil, then switch to synthetic after that. I switch out after about 10 hours. Also, that first valve adjustment at 20 hours just after the engine is completely broken in, is all important!!!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
One note.....the new generation of 450's are a very special case!!! These engines have little slipper pistons, and they tolerate a lot of compression blow-by. This means that the oil gets diluted by fuel very quickly. These engines need very frequent oil changes!!! My interval on my 450R is 2-5 hours. A good read on this issue:
http://www.belray.com/scripts/future...1-64a4cf6d0144
#20
True....synthetics had some formulation problems in the early days, but these were all worked out back in your grandfather's day. Thing is, the old stories take on a life of their own, and never die. A good read on this topic:
History of Engine Oil
Read this article, but particularly the last paragraph. This "synthetic and clutches" issue, continues to get propagated by just plain old ignorance:
Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1 - Sport Rider Magazine
I ran Maxima Extra or Ultra in all my quads for 8 years, and I have never had a clutch issue of any kind!!! Even my 10 year old 400EX and Rancher 350, still have the original clutches.
Redline has only make motorcycle oil for a couple of years now. When Redline came along, I switched all my quads over to it. It is extremely slick and rated JASO MB, so if anything should make a clutch slip, it should. (It is MB becasue of space age organic friction modifiers, but these are wet clutch safe....unlike the inorganic modifier moly.) I am seeing a preformance increase, running Redline!!! All that reduced friction nets a gain in torque and horsepower. My Rancher 420 screams!!!
As for Valvoline, if it is motorcycle specific and rated API SG/JASO MA, it meets the basic standards. But remember, any synthetic will always be better than plain old petroleum.....
History of Engine Oil
Read this article, but particularly the last paragraph. This "synthetic and clutches" issue, continues to get propagated by just plain old ignorance:
Oils Well That Ends Well, Part 1 - Sport Rider Magazine
I ran Maxima Extra or Ultra in all my quads for 8 years, and I have never had a clutch issue of any kind!!! Even my 10 year old 400EX and Rancher 350, still have the original clutches.
Redline has only make motorcycle oil for a couple of years now. When Redline came along, I switched all my quads over to it. It is extremely slick and rated JASO MB, so if anything should make a clutch slip, it should. (It is MB becasue of space age organic friction modifiers, but these are wet clutch safe....unlike the inorganic modifier moly.) I am seeing a preformance increase, running Redline!!! All that reduced friction nets a gain in torque and horsepower. My Rancher 420 screams!!!
As for Valvoline, if it is motorcycle specific and rated API SG/JASO MA, it meets the basic standards. But remember, any synthetic will always be better than plain old petroleum.....


