300ex stock a-arms. It is squeeking with every movement....so how the f*** do I grease a sealed ball joint.

What grease is the best for the frame side bushings? I would like to hear full-synthetic chassis /wheel bearing grease because I just did a bearing job on my work truck and I have some left over from that. Waste-not, want-not.

 

I just took my a-arms all off and greased them. It's not that difficult. And the grease you have will work fine. Take the arm pivot bolts out, remove the arm, and if you stick your finfer in the hole, you should be able to move that spherical bearing around some. It moves like one of those fish-eye spot lights people put in their ceilings. Just keep moving it around and greasing it. If it won't move, take the bolt that came out of it, put it in the hole and try moving it with that. Once you get it started moving, it should start to free up. But the other thing is, the squeaking may be coming from the gromets, not the bearing. But, grease those too and you should be fine. You should be able to grease all 8 pivots in an hour or maybe a little more. Also, take the shocks off and grease the pivots in them.

 

Thanks.

What about the sealed ball socket at the knuckles? I thought about a syringe with the grease in it right through the boot.

 

They say that the ball joint is ungreasable but I'd say your idea is worth a try. You've got nuttin to lose.

 

Its a sealed bearing, meaning the grease is sealed inthere, why add more?

As soon as you pop a hole in the boot with a syringe, you add a hole for water and debris to enter and wear the joint early.

 

True, but if he needs a new knuckle anyway, what's he got to lose by trying it? If it's a small needle, the rubber should close back up when he pulls the needle out. Maybe he can get a little more life out of it without it being so annoying? And just because it's sealed, doesn't mean the grease lasts forever. Grease gets old and is affected by ozone whether it's sealed or not.

 

My thoughts exactly. In the car world, ball joint dust boots are torn all the time and as long as you keep the grease fresh they can be in very dirty conditions and still go for a while. I am just new to the ATV world. The joint actually looks welded on and I need a new arm to get a new joint.

 

try taking your shocks off too rear and front and greasing the bolt that runs through the bottom and top of the shock that helps eliminating some noise also

 

The lower is welded, the upper is replaceable, or vice versa, I'm not looking at mine right now. It's crazy why they make them like that. Must be a reason. Yeah, it's expensive to have to replace the entire arm for the sake of a bad ball joint.

 

Just to let everyone know for the sake of searches, the syringe worked like a charm. I used a needle that held 3ml and had a needle that was about .5mm thick. You chould not see the hole after and the grease didn't come back out. I injected it low on the boots assuming water would run out if it got in.

You better have some hand strength to do this. Not exactly easy to force wheel bearing grease through a needle hole.