Just for now, I have heard you could use the aluminum from an aluminum can wrap it around the axle then hammer the hub on and it's suppose to conform to the worn splines and I guess kind of jam it on. Then put the nut back on. Like I said only heard of doing this and never tried it out.

 

I see a weld on the washer, what about the hub? No matter how tight you get the castle nut it will not stay tight just smashing the hub to the washer if there are no splines to help hold it. The castle nut is just there to keep the hub on the splines, the splines do all the work. You will need to run a bead on the hub to washer to make it stay on.

 

Go here and look it up and you'll see what a 300 axle looks like.
http://www.dgy.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

As far as fixing the old one, the aluminum can idea sounds worth a try.

Another idea, if you can get to it, is to put the hub on and drill a 1/4" hole through the hub and axle for a roll pin. But axle's are hard and to drill one will probably require a carbide drill and alot of muscle and patience.

Yet another idea is to run 2 beads of weld on the axle parallel to the worn splines and 180 degrees apart. Try to make them tall and straight. Then file 2 notches in the hub to match the built up welds. It would be kind of like 2 keyways in the hub and the welds would be the keys. Hey, it sounds crazy but I've done other crazy sounding things that worked.

But that axle that you saw for sale looks like a 300 axle. If you can get it for that price, you might save yourself a few busted knuckles. It's not hard to replace but get a service manual.

 

If you can find a replacement axle cheap like in the link, go for it. I think a few of the suggestions above might work fine at least over the short term, but probably not the most trustworthy over time. Oh, and please put a helmet on your kid, especially with the questionable hub/axle.

 

Thanks for all this good info. Yea, he does need to have a helmet on, I need to get back on that. They were wearing em, but we have gotten lax.
The aluminum on the hub sounds crazy but worth a try.
I might try that other welding method as soon as I find a better welder in my area.
I don't think he did a good weld and it needed that cotter pin anyways.

And thanks for that link to the 75.00 axle. That's very reasonable. Are they a lot of trouble to change? Is there a link or something with instructs on how to change that axle out?

 

Axles aren't that hard to change at all. Might take you a short afternoon. Buy the service manual for it, sounds like you plan on keeping it for a while. The manual will pay for itself in no time, and a Clymer will do if you can't find a decent priced Honda manual.

 

That link to the 75.00 axle was one I posted and then realized it was a 300EX axle, not a 300. Then I edited my post and removed that link. Sorry. So, don't buy that axle, it won't fit. The one you had for 119 is the right one.

 

ANybody here tried this??

 

Forget the roll pin, put a bolt and locknut through it. maybe 2.

 

I'm diggin this idea as a workaround, but what kind of drill would you guys use? I mean I have just a regular home drill and a hammer drill.
I can get a carbide bit, sure. But do I need a special drill????