300 Fourtrax 4x4 Brake Issue
#1
Hello all:
I have a 1994 300 4x4, my brakes are basically non-existent. I took the front drums off the front brakes and discovered the pads are fine. I think there is air in the system. When I pull both hand brakes only the right side pads move. For some reason the left brake pads are not moving. I am unsure why.
Is there any secrets as to bleeding the system? It just seems that there are 2 bleeders on the bike, one behind each front brake drum.
Also, how do you open the rear drum?
PLease advise
Thanks
I have a 1994 300 4x4, my brakes are basically non-existent. I took the front drums off the front brakes and discovered the pads are fine. I think there is air in the system. When I pull both hand brakes only the right side pads move. For some reason the left brake pads are not moving. I am unsure why.
Is there any secrets as to bleeding the system? It just seems that there are 2 bleeders on the bike, one behind each front brake drum.
Also, how do you open the rear drum?
PLease advise
Thanks
#2
it takes 2 people to bleed them like it does with a car its basicly the same way to bleed them and the rear i know at my work we have a huge socket that will go over the axle to remove the nut holding it in place you will have to remove the spindale on that side to get every thing off
#3
Mich-
welcome to one of the crappiest brake systems on any large production line of ATVs. Honda brakes suck.
My recommendation is to contact Highlifter and see if they offer a replacement disc brake system for your bike...however if you don't want to spend that amount of money, you're left with the waaaaay outdated system Honda's bean-counters forced on all of us.
You probably have some corrosion in the left drum, so that would be an area to check, as well as the air in the lines/bleeding problem. I have never had a problem with bleeding the brakes by myself, and it's even easier if you get a brake bleeding tool from Harbor Freight.
If you're gonna keep your ATV, I would recommend getting a factory service manual so that you will have the same guide the pro mechanics use when they work on the bike. I have FSMs for all my ATVs and they are well worth the money (about 25-30 bucks) see Honda Of Troy if you don't already have an online vendor.
welcome to one of the crappiest brake systems on any large production line of ATVs. Honda brakes suck.
My recommendation is to contact Highlifter and see if they offer a replacement disc brake system for your bike...however if you don't want to spend that amount of money, you're left with the waaaaay outdated system Honda's bean-counters forced on all of us.
You probably have some corrosion in the left drum, so that would be an area to check, as well as the air in the lines/bleeding problem. I have never had a problem with bleeding the brakes by myself, and it's even easier if you get a brake bleeding tool from Harbor Freight.
If you're gonna keep your ATV, I would recommend getting a factory service manual so that you will have the same guide the pro mechanics use when they work on the bike. I have FSMs for all my ATVs and they are well worth the money (about 25-30 bucks) see Honda Of Troy if you don't already have an online vendor.
#4
If the plungers in the cylinder aren't moving out when you pull the lever, the cylinder needs rebuilt or it may be corroded. Take the drums off and SLOWLY sqeeze the lever while watching the plungers. They should spread the pads apart. Do not squeeze too far or the plungers may come completely out of the cylinder. Just squeeze enough to see if they are moving.
#5
Thanks guys. I figured out the front brakes, however the back brakes are still giving me problems. I took off the rear drum and found out the seal was breached b/c there was all mud and water in the drum. I also discovered there are absolutely no pads left in the rear drum. BTW, how big is the socket to take off the spindle. 1 inch is too small and 30mm is too big. I was thinking it is 29mm?
Once I clean off all the mud, id figure i can get the rear pads off fairly easy.
Once I clean off all the mud, id figure i can get the rear pads off fairly easy.
#6
Here is where you need to spend your money if you plan on keeping your TRX300 4x4
Amazon.com: Highlifter HLHONDB-1 Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Honda: Automotive
and previously on this forum:
http://forums.atvconnection.com/hond...brake-kit.html
Can't find a thing for a rear drum conversion...you may not be able to escape that problem...which is the exact problem I had with my 1995 2wd TRX300...great durable atv, but crap for brakes. (which is why when I upgraded to bigger and better in 2004, I bought my 500 Vinson with all discs)
Amazon.com: Highlifter HLHONDB-1 Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit for Honda: Automotive
and previously on this forum:
http://forums.atvconnection.com/hond...brake-kit.html
Can't find a thing for a rear drum conversion...you may not be able to escape that problem...which is the exact problem I had with my 1995 2wd TRX300...great durable atv, but crap for brakes. (which is why when I upgraded to bigger and better in 2004, I bought my 500 Vinson with all discs)
#7
oh yeah....I would also get a factory service manual (NOT a Clymer's or other non-factory book) it has been worth every penny when it comes to fixing the ol' red ride
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#10
Hello all, I have a 1995 honda fourtrax 300 2x4 and my front brake lever is really loose, when you pull the front brake lever it doesn't engage the front brakes and the lever is really loose. I don't know what the cause of this. I have brake fluid in the master cylinder, fluid is dirty. I haven't taken off the front drums. The front brakes worked but after letting the four-wheeler sit for 2 years now they don't even work and the lever is really loose when you pull the lever. Also it's the right lever on handle bars.
Any help is much appreciated.
Any help is much appreciated.


